need more help with tors-sensor question

Y

yankeeslover

New member
Joined
Dec 18, 2008
Messages
266
Age
47
Location
ny
im still baffled on why my tors is acting up, atleast i think its my tors.. sxr 700.... pops and burps when tors is plugged in. when i unplug it, it runs perfect. throttle cable is loose, actually i can probably tighten it a tad(i dont have mm measure) but i do know it is more then 2mm gap on the throttle cable... im not sure what else to look at??? if the throttle cable is not tight, is the only thing left the sensor on the carbs? I tried to remove this sensor but im going nowhere with this, how the heck do remove it? If i turn it counter clockwise(idle screw) it stops after 4 turns.. If i turn it clockwise, it keeps spinning and spinniing and wont come out, its like it hits a spot, and will keep spinning(the screw) How exactly do i get this sensor off? i want to try to clean it a bit...
 
not sure

It sounds like it starts dying and backfiring real bad at around the 3000 mark... i think sometimes it does go over that.. but u can see a big loss of power at the 3000 rpm mark....it doesnt always do it... but 9times out of 10 it does... when i unplug and bypass it, it runs perfect all the time.... but i havent paid alot of attention on when it starts to backfire, but i believe it is around the 3000rpm mark....it sounds like the sled is loading up when i have those plugged in... sled just idles funny when i keep it plugged in... it sounds a tad different even at 1600 rpm at idle.. i bypass, and it runs and idles perfect.... It is almost like a skip in the motor when i leave the tors on...... are you thinking it might be something else? if so, what should I look at? carbs were just cleaned and synced at mechanic..
 
I might add... previous owner said it skipped and backfired like crazy last winter ever since dealer added the bar risers..... he never took it back, no idea why not....but he said it would skip and backfire until the sled was nice and warmed up...... My yammy mechanic said the throttle cable was way too tight when he got it, so he loosened that up and said it was the sensor. he even plugged them back in, and held the pivot on the throttle and u can hear it popping when he does that... he is the one who said to leave it bypassed, but i hate to do this
 
maybe

it just idles different, and pops and stutters sometimes when i have it in....it might be fine at idle,,, my ears might be playing tricks on me at idle, but it does pop and stutter and lose power when i hit idle..(sometimes)... its almost like it is loading up.... but once again, i unplug tors, it works fine
 
I know that sound well. It is the TORS. I just saw a thread on getting it out. It is usually the switch on the carbs and some people get away with just cleaning it. The tech pages have a spec for how much play should be in your throttle cable as well. It's around an 1/8 inch but of course theirs is in MM
 
thanks for looking for me

but i still dont see how to take the switch out.. i have searched and searched threads for this, and cant seem to find it..like i said, if i turn idle screw counterclockwise, it stops dead after 4 turns and wont turn anymore, if i turn screw clockwise, it turns forever, i think the thread stops and then it keeps turning.. i dont think u can turn it past a certain point.. either way, the sensor wont come off.. and this is with the carbs in the sled. i dont want to atempt to remove carbs myself..... but i assume the sensor can come out of sled with cabs left in
 
just unplug the two wires going to it, plug them into each other. bypass it. these things all fail eventually. i have had them work fine at the end of a season, next season during pre season prep they fail.
 
Turn the idle screw clockwise, like you are trying to raise the idle speed, the switch will thread itself off. Some people have been able to repair switch by taking it apart and cleaning the contacts. If there is resistance turning it out it may be that the threads are dented to keep the idle screw from backing out. You can probably force your way past that, but do it at your own risk as I don't know. Hopefully someone else can jump in. Most of us guys don't want to risk it and just disconnect them. The last time mine acted up I was trying to cross a busy highway and my sled was sitting in the middle of the road backfiring and farting and cars were going around me with people yelling and flipping me off. Not something I want to repeat.
 
On the 20-30 sleds I have fixed the TORS on it was never the switch itself. It was ALWAYS and incorrect cable/idle adjustment.
 
Hi there,

I have a 2000 SXR 700 that I recently removed the carbs from earlier this season before snow fall. I have never had the carbs off this sled and i just took them off to take a peek at everything to make sure is was all hunky-dory. (when the carbs were off i did not dissassemble them to clean or anything) Decided that everything looked fine and i put everthing back together. Started her up and the idle seemed to be high and pop like you guys have have been dicussing. Im pretty sure the idle screw got moved and such. So I adjusted it down to around 1200-1500 RPM and she runs fine. But when I rev it up to say 4000 RPM and just let off the throttle the engine seems to die untill it gets down to a lower RPM. So after reading this thread i decided that this has something to do with the TORS? So I jumped the TORS and it still seems to be doing the same thing.... Any ideas?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.


Back
Top