I'd like to find a guy that needs some extra cash that has done a few of these before, in central NH to help me install my skid with new track which should be here 12-7-10.
Skid is out now, have all the tools and a warm shop.
PM me please.
Steve
Skid is out now, have all the tools and a warm shop.
PM me please.
Steve
Bring that thing about 5 hours north and we'll tackle it.LOL
03viperguy
Moderator
installing a different skid? where in NH are you. not sure I can help though 
Putting the stock skid back in with new track. This is the first skid I have taken out, and it looks like it would be a ton easier to have another pair of hands/eyes on the install.03viperguy said:installing a different skid? where in NH are you. not sure I can help though
I live in Gilmanton.
thx
03viperguy
Moderator
man it has been a long while since I pulled a skid. if I had some free time I might get a hold of you though and try and give you a hand, I live in Alton. pretty close
Thanks for the interest, I would certainly appreciate a hand, considering I'm a novice.03viperguy said:
Steve
Another set of hands is a great asset when re-installing the skid. I usually do mine by myself. The best way for me is to get the w-arm mount up over the drivers. I then use a bungee cord to hold it there. And now the fun begins with getting the rear wheels into the track. New tracks make it tougher but I slowly work the rear wheels over the track nubs. A prybar comes in handy for this. Once you fought the skid back in bolt the w-arm in first. Then line up and bolt in the rear of the skid. Loosen the transfer rods and line up the center and then bolt eveything tight. Adjust track and have some fun in the snow 
Thanks for the suggestions, I need all I can get.stein700sx said:Another set of hands is a great asset when re-installing the skid. I usually do mine by myself. The best way for me is to get the w-arm mount up over the drivers. I then use a bungee cord to hold it there. And now the fun begins with getting the rear wheels into the track. New tracks make it tougher but I slowly work the rear wheels over the track nubs. A prybar comes in handy for this. Once you fought the skid back in bolt the w-arm in first. Then line up and bolt in the rear of the skid. Loosen the transfer rods and line up the center and then bolt eveything tight. Adjust track and have some fun in the snow
Stupid questions perhaps--------but
After installing the drive axle with the track around it and before sliding in the skid, being as many speak about the trouble of getting the rearmost wheels over the track nubs, can't we just remove the rear axle and wheels (3), slid in the skid and then reassemble ?
And-- do you guys install the left side bearing and the chaincase on the drive axle to stabilize it before fighting to get the suspension into the track?
Many thanks,
Steve
I have thot about putting in the rear wheels later after the skid is in. I have reassembled the rear axle when the skid is out and now I think it would be more work to assemble that axle while its in the track. You can remove the outside wheel of one side. Use this side as lead side when installing the skid. This gives a little more "wiggle" room.
I always have the drive axle in and fully set before installing the skid. Its just what I do.
I always have the drive axle in and fully set before installing the skid. Its just what I do.
You're 
SinNH said:
Getting all the spacers/washers/wheels back on the axle with the skid installed would be difficult but perhaps do-able.
As Stein suggested having one of the outer wheels off and leading with that side of the skid helps. Another thing I've done in the past is to use about a 12"-15" piece of one of those sheet plastic kiddie sleds between the rear wheels and track liberally lubed with silicone spray. A new track might not have enough strech to allow for the kiddie sled trick but it works good with used tracks.
Otherwise a manly screw driver/prybar used to pry the wheels over the inner drive lugs is SOP.
Thanks for the advice!snomofo said:
Steve
BigTimeFarmer
New member
I always take the axle and wheels out but it is hard/time consuming to get it back in afterwords. Don't really know if it helps or not, it's just how I've always done it.
I would have all the chaincase and drive axle stuff back together. Make sure your rear axle tension is as loose as possible. Roll sled onto side. Put in front of skid first, then just muscle it into place while you are working the back of the track over the rear axle. It's not that hard. Then do as the other guy said-remove the bolts from the transfer rods. Front bolts in first, then rear, then the middle. Then sit on sled to compress skid and put the transfer rod bolts back in. You are kind of making it harder than it is.