SRX 54/44 setup

that was a few seasons ago.This is now and can't seem to dial it in..last year was a waste of time..didn't run good at all.
Kinda loving my SXR now after rebuild.She is pulling harder then my SRX..lol
 

mrviper700 said:
you answered your own question. Your 8 tooth drivers REMOVE load off the engine because it now takes the stock 23/38-1.65 gears and makes them into a 1.86 ratio. So anytime you remove load from the engine, its gonna require more clutch weight to bring rpm back down. Also having a shallower finish angle will require more tip weight to bring rpm back down. Stock helix was 47 degrees, your now finishing the shift at 43 degrees.

you have a couple options open to you:

replace the primary spring with a w/w/w this will lower topend rpm. your stock y/w/y spring is 45/128, this w/w/w/ is 45/119

add more tip weight-more washers under rivet.
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Mr Viper, your info is what I was looking for to know what to do next. I figured my gearing had something to do with it. I have a new w/w/w spring that I was going to put in to get a better launch so I'll start by changing it and then adjust from there, I didn't know it would help to lower my rpms also.
Whammy: I guess I should of said that I'm long tracked to 141 with a 2" track now. Most of my riding is in fields with 8"-18" of snow and ditchbanging, not like most guys with srx's on this site who trail ride and lake race so if I can hit 100 mph thats good with me. My sled pulls really hard to 90 mph and I dont want to lose that but if I have to gear up again to get my rpm's down after I change my primary spring and add wieght then I will. Thanks to both of you for the info.
Hey Blue, not trying to hijack your thread... I'll duck out now! :)
 
bluemonster1 said:
now you can help me with my issues.....
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Wish I was more experienced with clutching so I could be more sure about saying this but judging from what Mr Viper just told me maybe trying a helix with a shallower finish angle around 40 or so would help you out? I'm just guessing but if you had one with a finish around 40 it wouldn't hurt to try it. Feel free to tell me I'm out to lunch if this sounds crazy...lol
 
not to worry.I tried the 54/44 with stock weights loaded and tried the 8BU-10's with 50/40 today and motor is lugging down.Max rpm I am getting is 8000 and 7000 on the later.The motor is still fresh and still have a lot of breaking in to do I guess yet.
Going back to stock set up for now as it pulls right rpms.When I start to see the rpm's starting to rise,maybe the engine is finally producing full power.Otherwise I do not have a clue what setups to try,just go by what others are saying.Maybe the best is to leave what is not broke!!!! :dunno:
 
bluemonster1 said:
not to worry.I tried the 54/44 with stock weights loaded and tried the 8BU-10's with 50/40 today and motor is lugging down.Max rpm I am getting is 8000 and 7000 on the later.The motor is still fresh and still have a lot of breaking in to do I guess yet.
Going back to stock set up for now as it pulls right rpms.When I start to see the rpm's starting to rise,maybe the engine is finally producing full power.Otherwise I do not have a clue what setups to try,just go by what others are saying.Maybe the best is to leave what is not broke!!!! :dunno:
Click to expand...
I was going to mention that maybe your motor wasn't fully broke in yet. I remember when I first bought my sled new that it took about 130 kms on it before it really opened up.
 
your motor should be broken in already. when my motors are "fresh", they have no issues pulling something that i should. you should have no problems pulling those setups given to you, unless you are running in some deep wet snow, on a warm day. i had no issues on my buddies '00 stock srx, w/15,000 miles on it. yes.....15,000 original miles, on original rings, still pulling 120+lbs for compression. what gaskets did you use? OEM?
 
go too lighter 8dn-20 weights, BLUE! till you get your RPMS right and try it out, but get the motor broken in right first.
 
I was thinking maybe PV issues.Taking out the valves now.Valves slide out easily and not to dirty..but the f-ing cables ends are embedded in the valve a little and i can't get the cables to push back and out.Never had a cable pull thru before in3 years because of me.Something is tight then,but the valves still slide out easy..Got 2 apart and cables won't come out..I imagine the 3rd is the same..what the F is going on here??
 
these cables are all brand new,don't want to take pliers to them to try and back off and cut the strands.Gonna take evrything all out complete and try working on a bench.Using Yamalube for break in,but why would cables embed into valve if the valves slide out easily..... :o| #$%&*
 
I have 3 extra valves to use..if I can only get these off the cable ends..something is causing this and I adjusted everything to 2.5 mm originally.This all happening in 120 miles of riding..come on!!! :o|
 
Maybe your servo moved and didn't notice while adjusting valves..... Just sounds like to much tension being applied....
 
I am pretty careful to watch the servo don't move..not the first time I have done it.The servo cycles down under 900rpm.I revved motor up on stand and noticed servo pulsating.Is there any other test one can do to insure servo is working correctly.Sure seems like the motor wants to open up and then "blah" it holds back.I have an extra servo motor here as a spare just in case.I know last season also that this sled wasn't running as it should.Now with re-built top end I expected it to just rip.I am wandering now if the issue is still with the PV's now.
 
IMO:

With a power valve cable thats a little stubborn to slide out of the valve end, I use a small punch [or a nail with the end ground flat] to insert into the power valve slot and tap out the cable,

Blue:

I have been reading about your performance woes, if I could offer some advice:

Facts:

-the 2002 SRXs ran pretty strong out of the crate
-your sled is unported and engine is fresh...just like a new 2002 SRX

Suggestions:

-return sled to initial stock specs[sometimes you have to backup to move forward]
-install stock pilot jets
-install stock main jets
-install stock secondary helix + spring
-install stock primary weights + spring
-install stock gearing

I think you probably get what I am getting at...completely baseline all aspects of the sled...If you still have performance issues you probably do have some mechanical or electrical issues'

A lot of people[including me] get caught up in changing so many things on a sled trying to make something that is already great even better[sometimes beyond its capabilities] and the baseline perf becomes so obscurred that the problems that arrise become very complex to solve, that is why sometimes you have to return to square one just to go forward.

JM.02c

Bob
 
bob..that is exactly what I was gonna do,actually was set up stock with the break-in procedure.Motor ran well during the first 75 miles,rpm's were there and was snappy.So I figured I would switch to new set-up just to see what they feel like and now rpm's won't come up with the setups like I am told they should.Then I decided to check the PV's..thinking that maybe they aren't opening up and this is when I see potential pull thru's beginning on 2 of them.You think that when I had that mishap at the beginning when my exhaust burnt thru the wires,that this may have caused the servo to get damaged somehow and maybe it doesn't cycle properly as it should.Could this have caused servo to maybe short circuit itself?Just grasping at straws here.Servo still cycles down..so seems as it is working..but does it work at the higher rpm's when it is supposed to.I assume it may since 2 valves have near pullthrus starting.
Sled is totally stock with the exception of a 4.5 g in place of the 3.6g in the clutch.Stock 2ndary and springs on both are stock.Gears are stock also.There is no issue on the driveline,track actually rotates at idle up on a stand..no resistance here also.Motor re-built,new belt,cltch bushings,buttons,springs,etc all good to go.Got to solve whatever is happeninh here or I will park this sled for the season..wanna ride and not always wrench the SRX..... :o|
 
The power valve servo is very difficult to observe in action...I have been tempted to put a fourth cable on mine that leads up to the handle bars with a red indicator on it so I can track my power valve movements in real world riding...not having that, you pretty well have to trust it to work!

Once you check your power valve adjustment put that sled back to "out of the crate stock specs" and see how it runs!
Then you will know if its broke!

JM.02c

Bob
 
yepers!!! ;)! I have 3 valves that need repairs already.But have 4 valves that are still good .So next week I will install them and try it out again.Will be riding all weekend with the 600..and she is really snappy now after a re-build..no PV's to worry about there..
 
I have 2 ported/piped/SXs that are set up exactly as my SRX is...144"X 1 1/4", Viper shocked, reverse ect...that darn 700SX still outruns my SRX!!!

Bob
 
could you post pics of what your powervalves look like?

i am about to pull mine and clean them, and i am new to SRX's as of last year, and not sure of what these pull through's are you guys speak of.

Thanks in advance :)
 
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