Yammigod, Turk, guys with lots of clutching testing??

SRX700guy

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Anybody tried a Pioneer Performance 47/41 helix? I am going to try the 8bu-10 setup but I don't know if I want to put the 50/40 helix in.
 

You tune the primary 1st then play with helix,s after. You don,t chase a helix by tuning the primary around it.
 
I'm assuming Yammiegod's primary setup with the 8bu-10's is good if he pulled a 110mph in 1000' with it. I don't want it to launch really hard though and spin the track. I am only running 96 Ice Picks down the center. Doesn't a shallower starting helix launch softer?
 
left us know how the setup works.Don't take much to try one,switch it and try the other all in resonable span of time.Then you will know which works best for you. Typing out on here to get an answer is only a ball park..need to actually get in some field testing.Report back your results on each helix..with rpm's and speeds.
 
yeah I know but I don't have the helix I was going to buy it. At $85 a helix it would get expensive in a hurry. I can buy a 50/40 helix like Tony ran but he said it was slightly under revving so he tightened up the secondary well I was just wondering what 1 degree more would do? Or would a finish of 42 be better? My other question about the starting angle creatiing different launches am I correct that a steeper angle will launch harder than a shallower angle?
 
SRX700guy said:
I'm assuming Yammiegod's primary setup with the 8bu-10's is good if he pulled a 110mph in 1000' with it. I don't want it to launch really hard though and spin the track. I am only running 96 Ice Picks down the center. Doesn't a shallower starting helix launch softer?
IF THATS THE CASE, WHATEVER YOU DO DON,T USE 8BU-00 THAN. (yammie tony)
 
Turk said:
You tune the primary 1st then play with helix,s after. You don,t chase a helix by tuning the primary around it.
100 % RIGHT, THATS THE BEST WAY TO SEE KNOW RESULTS BY TUNEING THE SECONDARY FIRST AND PRIMARY SECOND. 3;16 (yammie tony)
 
SRX700guy said:
Anybody tried a Pioneer Performance 47/41 helix? I am going to try the 8bu-10 setup but I don't know if I want to put the 50/40 helix in.
LOOK, THERE IS KNOW GUN TO YOUR HEAD HERE TO RUN EXACTLY WHAT I DID, BUILD OFF WHAT YA HAVE, BUT YOU MUST TEST. 3:16 (yammie tony)
 
I know that but I am just trying to wrap my head around the way the secondary works I always seem to get it backwards. so if a 40 finish is under revving then a 39 finish would rev a little higher?
still nobody has answered my question about the starting angle??
 
The way your sled launches out of the hole has very little to do with your secondary clutch, at that point the primary job of the secondary clutch is that it has enough side pressure to prevent belt slip, or even more important that it does not allow the belt to be pulled down into the secondary! Your launch and first 50-100ft is all about the primary, weight transfer, traction and gearing.

JM.02c:Bob
 
39 FINISH WILL PUT LESS LOAD ON YOUR MOTOR INCRESEING YOUR RPM. BUT OTHER THINGS COME INTO PLAY LIKE YOUR WRAP, YOUR SPRING, YOUR WEIGHTS AND YOUR PRIMARY SPRING. ALSO YES THAT FIRST ANGLE ON YOUR HELIX WILL CONTROL HOW FAST TO SHIFT YOUR CLUTCHES. THATS REALLY WHY THRER ARE HUGE DEFFERNCES BETWEEN A GRASS DRAG/ ICE DRAG SET-UP AND A 1000 FT RADER RUN SET-UP. 3:16 (yammie tony)
 
ok so you say a 39 will put less load on the motor increasing RPM's but don't you want to load the motor as much as you can with still being able to pull your desired rpm's?? Clutching is confusing as heck I wish my Olav Aaen Clutch Tuning book would hurry up and get here.

Ok so Tony your 8bu-10 setup what would you suggest changing to try and get mor MPH out of it in a 1000' radar run?
 
With a higher initial # will open the secondary faster,,, loading the engine more,,... the lower # is going to open it up even faster or slower depending on angle,,,, all depends on what you want to achieve,,,,,,, short run long run and all the conditions in between...... (which are many)))snow-weight - etc......
 
1000' speed run sled only. not going to be trail riddin at all. lowered suspension with a 1/2" speed track and 96 Ice Picks down the center.
 
SRX700guy said:
ok so you say a 39 will put less load on the motor increasing RPM's but don't you want to load the motor as much as you can with still being able to pull your desired rpm's?? Clutching is confusing as heck I wish my Olav Aaen Clutch Tuning book would hurry up and get here.

Ok so Tony your 8bu-10 setup what would you suggest changing to try and get mor MPH out of it in a 1000' radar run?
MAN I HAVE KNOW IDEA HOW TO INPROVE HERE WHAT I DID. TELL YA WHAT I,LL DO FOR YA , THAT 2002 SRX SITS IN MY GARAGE EXACTLY THE WAY I TOOK IT OF THE ICE THAT DAY. I HAVE TOUCHED NOTHING. ITS PARKED. TOMORROW I WILL POST AGAIN FOR YA EXACTLY WHATS IN IT. GLAD TO SHARE IT. NOW WHY YA THINK LOADING YOUR MOTOR WITH A STEEP FINISH IS THE KEY ? LIKE TURK POSTED, IF YOUR RPM IS HIGH OR LOW, YOU TUNE AT THE PRIMARY (weights) NOT THE SECONDARY. THE HEART OF A SNOWMOBILE TRANSMISSION IS THE PRIMARY, NOT A HELIX. 3:16 (yammie tony)
 
ok that sounds good. ok so I know that the primary puts the power down so those 8BU-10's are fully loaded and the 50/40 helix was under revving then to make the rpm's up and go faster I should put a higher finishing primary spring in correct??
 
Remove mass from the primary weights to gain rpm,s since your chasing the secondary anyway.
 
Looks like your getting plenty of solid information for tuning,
One thing that alot of guys seem to forget when trying a set up from someone else sled, is you need to have ALL the ingrediants to have the same or close to same outcome.
Gearing is ALWAYS forgotten in this mix and plays a key element in the rpm in which a certain clutch recipe will produce. Its just like baking a cake if you decide to only use 1 egg and maybe leave something else out of the recipe,and the recipe calls for 2eggs, youll likely not have a nice fluffy cake when you open the oven!
Lots of varibles from 1 sled to another, some make more engine power, some are set up better for suspension, some have tighter chains in chaincase, some have freer rolloing tracks, rider weight, transfer set up, traction,lots and lots of little things. If you get a clutch set up and you get within 2-300rpm of perfect, you got a early x-mas gift! Always have to go out and fine tune!!

TEST,TEST,TEST,TEST!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
mrviper700 said:
Looks like your getting plenty of solid information for tuning,
One thing that alot of guys seem to forget when trying a set up from someone else sled, is you need to have ALL the ingrediants to have the same or close to same outcome.
Gearing is ALWAYS forgotten in this mix and plays a key element in the rpm in which a certain clutch recipe will produce. Its just like baking a cake if you decide to only use 1 egg and maybe leave something else out of the recipe,and the recipe calls for 2eggs, youll likely not have a nice fluffy cake when you open the oven!
Lots of varibles from 1 sled to another, some make more engine power, some are set up better for suspension, some have tighter chains in chaincase, some have freer rolloing tracks, rider weight, transfer set up, traction,lots and lots of little things. If you get a clutch set up and you get within 2-300rpm of perfect, you got a early x-mas gift! Always have to go out and fine tune!!

TEST,TEST,TEST,TEST!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
but there are probaly 100 different clurch setups that will get the rpm's you are looking for but they won't produce the same speed. why is that?
 


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