2000 sxr 600 clutching

S

schinner16

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Oct 15, 2007
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N. Illinois
hey guys...ive been reading through the older threads on here. Obviously the stock clutching on this sled is pretty crappy...9000 rpm...really??

anyways I have a friend with one, completely stock, gearing, engine, carbs...1.25 ripsaw is the only non-original drivetrain component. he is saying that the sled will hit 9000 rpm on the tach. I see that Turk recommended setting a 4.5 gram rivet in the inside hole of the stock weights.... he was saying this should get it at about 8400-8500 rpm... isnt the optimum more like 8300 rpm??

we have a trip coming up soon so what ever we change we hope to not mess around with it on the trip...were going to houghton mi... so im hoping someone can maybe add some feedback as to if the 4.5 grams will be sufficient...maybe we should do that for the trip and make other changes later if needed... maybe lessen the secondary spring pretension like 10 degrees or something?
 
not sure..I have 3.6 in both holes on mine..slight slight over-rev yet.Buit in my case I rebuilt the motor and have pu horsepower.I was geared down 1 tooth,now back up to 20 tooth stock again which get me on target.
 
I have a 98 srx600. Here is what Turk has just suggested to me.
8bu-00 VMax 4 weights pn#17605-00-00
1st hole empty with 2.4 rivot in tip pn#90261-06015-00
Stock Primary spring with silver secondary pn#90508-556A7 60degree wrap
45/39 Helix check Hauck 715-234-6195
clutching is for 83-8500rpm w.o.t.
I will be getting the parts to fix mine this week as the stock gearing SUCKS
Hope this helps
 
thanks for the posts guys...yup sxr though

monster you said 3.6 in both holes...i thought that there were three on each? and what is pu horsepower?

by the way guys... i think hes looking for something simple and cheap, not really a full on kit... but its nice to hear what other guys are running anyways
 
well looking into this more and more...i see there are only two holes on these stock weights and i also see that they should already have some rivets in them. are these hard to remove?

maybe it would be easier to switch to a primary spring with less final force like
going from stock
Y-GR-Y ---- 40-123 kg
to
W-GR-W ----- 40-114 kg

Question: how much will 10 kg final change the rpms 400?? 500?? 200??
and how much of an rpm difference is there between the 5 kg increments in preload force?? (40 vs 35 kg for example)

im not new to clutching at all... ive taken care of my own sled...but its a ski doo so it has the tra primary which is very different.
 
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drill the ends and then tap them out .I made a punch that fits the weight holes exact.Put on the vise loose between the sides of the vise,pound with a good hammer and the rivet should just pass on thru.
 
okay...sounds easy enough

after doing more reading it sounds like the best option is to just add some weight. Monster you never said what pu horsepower is...

what difference will it make if the added weight is more to the tip or towards the heel? I would guess more towards the tip would improve the upshift on top...vs upshift in the midrange with the weight more in the second hole.


my understanding is stock the weights should have 2.44g in the tip and 3.6g in the second hole... what should we change??? just the second one to 4.5g?? will that be enough???
 
pu means picked up..I picked up some horsepower.Just had my 600 out today and even with 20 tooth upper..3.6 and 3.6 rivets I am still over-reving.When I hit the deep stuff and pin it..I am at about 8900-9000 rpm.Went to the river today,a lot of ice there with not much snow cover eveywhere.Sure if I pin on the ice she hits 9000-9100 rpms..BUT found a few places with good snow on top,packed down by other sleds..I am still running about 8700 wot,only hit 130 k/h,had to let go otherwise I would have flipped her on the corner.My SRX with studs took that corner at 70...big difference with studs.

So now I guess I am going to open up the clutch ,pull weights and add 4.5 to tip now to bring rpm's down.Motor is screaming to much for my liking,and losing some HP at the same time.Trick is to get it at a good rpm at launch and let it climb to 8400-8500.To tell you the truth,I think I had better speeds with a smaller upper gear..sure seems like it after today's run..
 
ok so yours is a little hopped up...does it hurt to over-rev at 9000 for short periods?

so should we put 3.6 inner and 4.5 outer and run it? or go with the 3.6 inner and outer?
 
i will be going 3.6 in and 4.5 out and test tomorrow again and see what gives.Revving 9000 makes the engine lose a lot of power.Excellence is when you pin it and it hits around 8200 and then slowly climbs to 8400-8500.Have to test in an area where the snow is more layered and packed instead of loose only.I still will run red spring at 80 with the stock helix and fine tune from there.Going to a 70 wrap will aid in lowering engine rpm a tad.But 2ndary is not the place to go until you got the primary pretty close and then fine tune 2ndary.
 
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3.6 inner and 4.5 outer and 70 wrap with stock springs and stock gearing engagement is 3800 and runs 8500 all day long very happy with this set up
 
Thanks for the responses!

looks like we'll try out the 4.5g rivet on the tip of the weight...everything else stock. I'll let you guys know how it works next week.
 
mine had the 2.44g stock first hole.Changed to 3.6 g and still over reved.Now changing 3.6 outer to 4.5g..hopefully that's it..just wanna ride..Don't ask me about trying different helix's now...lol.I just want my 600 stock running..it is not a racer.
 
whoops just checked today 4.5 in first hole inner and 3.6 in second hole outer its backwords because when i had 4.5 in tip and 3.6 in first it under reved so i switched them and now it runs 8500
i think it made a see saw effect more weight toward the bolt
 
well i havent been there in person to check how its running and shifting...but i just got off the phone with my brother.

they put 4.5 in the center/inner and a 3.6 in the outer....all stock otherwise. the sled still pulls 8900 rpm... he said its definitely getting quicker though

go to a 4.5 outer/tip???? or what else would be causing such an over-rev?
 
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