89 Exciter 570 - need a little bit of help

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soleburner79

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Dec 16, 2010
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Northern Illinois Border
Hi all, new to this particular forum!

I need a little bit of assistance on an older sled I scooped up for free recently as a spare (got sick of my friends beating on my nice stuff).

I've got a 1989 Yamaha Exciter 570. No spark. All grounds test good. Pickup and pulse coils test fine. I have a 12V pulse at the orange wire for the coil and a good ground to the coil but no spark. The original coil did not pass manufacturer resistance test, according to my manual specs (I buy manuals for everything). Purchased a Parts Unlimited coil, which failed the secondary resistance just like the original - still no spark.

Am I on the right track here? With a 12V pulse, the coil should be the last in the line for spark. If anything else was failing I would have no pulse there. Plus, everything else passes testing. Am I correct that they sold me a piece of garbage coil or should I be looking somewhere else here?

Also, on another note. I could not find in the manual or anywhere any reference to whether or not these sleds required a battery to run. The battery that is in the sled is cracked, leaked out, and obviously a goner. I do not need the electric start, so I wasn;t going to address that until I could get the sled running again. Do I need a functional battery? The wiring schematics suggest that the battery only operates the electric start aspect, but I know it also feeds into the voltage regulator, so I thought I should ask. I figure the reason the headlight isn't coming to life is that the battery was shot and possibly the voltage regulator is shot as a result. But, again, with a 12V pulse at the coild spark should not be an issue with a new coil.

Someone please tell me if I'm aimed in the wrong direction here. Any assuistance is much appreciated.
 
My 93 Exciter runs just fine without it's battery. Does that mean yours should, I think so but don't know for sure.
 
soleburner79 said:
The original coil did not pass manufacturer resistance test, I have good meters and have never been able to get the correct readings from the manuals. Chances are the ignition coil is good they rarely fail.
The battery that is in the sled is cracked, leaked out, and obviously a goner. A shorted battery may be pulling down the stator output at the very least remove the battery and make sure the cables ends are not touching metal.
Click to expand...

Have you tried unhooking the ignition switch and the kill switch ? Another thing to check would be for bare wiring.
 
Thanks guys. Unhooked the ignition switch and the kill switch. Also ran them through continuity tests. No apparent issues there. Again...I have a 12V pulse at the coils orange feed line and the ground to the coil is good. No bare wiring. Nothing with a bad connection (continuity checked just about everything I could find).

Dave in WI - did you just pull the battery out altogether or do you have a dead battery hooked up and in the sled?
 
The battery is not needed - I pulled mine to save a little weight.

Sounds like the new coil is shot too. Lots of them on Ebay cheap - pick up a couple - eventually you'll get a good one...
 
Vmax540 - yes, I did try new plugs. I keep stock in BR9ES do to the number of sleds I service. I swapped out some brand new ones just to be safe.

I'm with Classic SRX, I think I got screwed on my new part/coil. And the dealer that sold it is acting like a bunch of *&$$&*(^%!!!!!!!

I just wasn't sure if the shorted battery could have torched the rectifier causing a problem too. I'm pulling the battery like Classic SRX tonight, just to eliminate that potential issue.
 
soleburner79 said:
Thanks guys. Unhooked the ignition switch and the kill switch. Also ran them through continuity tests. No apparent issues there. Again...I have a 12V pulse at the coils orange feed line and the ground to the coil is good. No bare wiring. Nothing with a bad connection (continuity checked just about everything I could find).

Dave in WI - did you just pull the battery out altogether or do you have a dead battery hooked up and in the sled?
Click to expand...

When I bought it there was no battery in it. The positive battery lead is taped off.
 
Try pulling the throttle just a little bit when you start it. If it's worn it will keep it from running "No spark" I had to put a screw in mine to keep slight pressure on it. Not totally sure but I believe it is what they call the T.O.R.S I have also heard that you can unplug the wire's @ the carbs then plug the wires into itself their by By-Passing the whole system, but I like the screw idea better. I hope that helps...
 
sandman, first thing I did was bypass the TORS. With the sled sitting for almost 10 years prior to me taking possession of it I didn't even want to have to deal with that. I figured once I get it running I'll back track and fix the TORS.
 
OK guys, the saga continues. After a full week the dealer calls and tells me that teir testing of the coil suggests its fine, they surmise that when I did the scondary resistance test that it failed due to the part being too cold. I suppose that's possible.

After spending quite some time with the techs on the phone, they suggest that my magneto/stator is likely shot and that the only way to tell is to do a peak voltage test, one of the few things I'm not equipped to do of course. They indicated that despite the mag passing resistance testing, it could be just too weak for it to put a spark through the coil. Anyone have some thoughts on this? Expensive parts for a guessing game.
 
Just a thought... I've been fighting a similar scenario with a 340 motor. A bit of work involved but get your flywheel off and check for rust. Clean off both the magnets and coils see if this returns your signal to the cdi and = a big fat spark!
 
Not a bad idea Northern SRX, not a bad idea at all and certainyl beats buying a new mag right away! Worth the effort in my book. Do you just recommend some electrical contact cleaner so as not to mess up the components?

I also ordered up some new plug caps just in case, minimal investment to ensure those little buggers aren't my problem. Is there supposed to be resistance accross them or should they have clean continuity? Anyone?
 
Have not yet considered the CDI box actually. Figured I would not have a pulse at the external coil if that was operating. And the headlight isn;t lighting up when you pull the sled. I've started dismantling to check the Mag, but that has proven to be a little difficult on this sled. Almost have the motor out now, should pull it tonight. The bottom of the front engine cover cannot be unbolted with the motor in the sled, that cover has to come off because of the starter flywheel mounted on the back side of the magnetic flywheel, otherwise I can't get back to the MAG.
 
I wonder if its just a short in the harness. that pulse at the coil might not be at the right time... Cdi 's can do wired things when going bad....it could give u bad timing or intermittent spark....week spark...all kinds of issues, see if u can borrow one off another exciter for a quick ride ....alot easier than pulling the motor out. the stator would be my last effort.
 
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