Rpm, help with clutching

S

Spinner18

New member
Joined
Jan 16, 2006
Messages
315
Age
37
Location
Virginia, MN
Stock 01, stock pri spring, stock weights with 4.5 each hole, red secondary at 80, micro Belmont 52-46. Pulls hard out of hole and pulls really hard midrange. When I give it wot from a stop or any roll, hits 8500 right on the nose and holds it, then when I get around 100, rpms drop
To 8100 and motor feels lugged down, and feels and sounds flat. Can get 105-106 gps. Wondering if the helix is Slightly more aggressive cut to bring my top
End rpms Down and should try the stock helix and see what happens, or wondering of 4.5 in the middle hole is causing too much overall
Weight and the sled just can't pull it. Not sure what to do from
Here.
 
what happens when you go to 90 on the red sec. spring?

what happens when you go to 100 on red spring?

then if its better what happens when you use a a green sec. spring at 70, then 80?


sure looks to me like its too aggressive on the topend cut of the helix, or the sec spring cant hang onto the belt. With the motor on topend the sec clutch is simply torq sensing and trying to backshift while the front clutch is trying to keep upshifting, thus they are fighting each other, this results in the dead zone where it just makes noise and has no gain im mph or rpm.
 
Last edited:
That makes sense. I wasnt sure what to try adjusting next. I will try a little more wrap on the secondary with the red spring, if it won't hold rpm at 100 wrap, I'll try the green spring and wrap until it holds rpm, and gps speed. Then I'll try stock helix with red spring, and see if I can get it to hold rpm, and gps then and go with whatever golds rpm and pulls to a higher mph.

I can feel the motor is running flat on top end because the motor feels loaded down. It cranks to 100 at 8500, then rpms drop to 8100 and it doesn't wMt to keep going much more. I'll try more wrap, different springs if need be, and try a different helix and see. Thank you
 
Last edited:
there ya go, test,test,test. take notes so you know what you have already tried. ;)!
 
Any dealer will have them...... Add to middle hole,, I use machine screws with washers and jam nut to tune my clutches,, as it is much easier to tune with out drilling rivets out (pita). A good running srx will be able to run more than 4.5g in the tip anyway.. Make sure your valves are clean and adjusted, carbs cleaned, reeds in good shape and it should pull that helix... Unless your 350+lb.....
 
Whammy said:
Any dealer will have them...... Add to middle hole,, I use machine screws with washers and jam nut to tune my clutches,, as it is much easier to tune with out drilling rivets out (pita). A good running srx will be able to run more than 4.5g in the tip anyway.. Make sure your valves are clean and adjusted, carbs cleaned, reeds in good shape and it should pull that helix... Unless your 350+lb.....
Click to expand...



all depends the helix u match with it
 
Carbs are clean, the sled runs awesome. Just when I hit around 100 the rpms fall from 8500 to 8100, like it shifts into overdrive but the rpms are low. Engine sounds great when I hammer it until 100, then like I said, rpm goes down 400 and engine sounds loaded down then, needs to wind out a little more.

Valves have been cleaned and were adjusted last year. Not being pulled through at all, and even if they were very slightly off from optimal, it would still pull full to
. Even though the tip weight is stock, the whole weight is still heavier than stock, and I don't know if the cut is exactly as labeled. I know hacks sometimes are off from listed, Belmont could be the same way. I weigh 245 without gear, temp the other day was 33 and sticky. Going to just throw in stock helix next with stock wrap and see what it does. If it doesn't pull 8500 then I'll look elsewhere, but I'm betting I'd a combination of the helix and the added middle weight... Wants to keep shifting up faster in primary because of added overall weight, and need to compensate with different secondary sprig pressure.


Anyone got a set of stock 8dn-20's they would sell me with stock rivets in?
 
so what were the results of changing the srec.spring wind and the rpm?


you have to test, there isnt anyone who can give you a exact spot on set up for your sled,rider weight,snow conditions, temp run,etc. You can only get someone so close the rest has to be dialed in-by you the rider of that paticular sled

I will tell ya right off the bat, a red sec. spring with a helix that big is likely not going to work, too weak for that big of a helix and your weight. Only way to find out if you can make it work with your paticular combo is simply try it, and test, take notes and then make the educated decision on how to remedy the problem.

here is something else to do also, say you try this sec. stuff and your still not getting what your wanting, you can simply drill a hole thru the rivet to lighten it up some in the tip. Not every srx makes the same power. Not every srx owner is the same weight, not every srx has the same track,studs,etc. you get the drift. You may need 4.0 grams tip, you may need 3.75 grams, have to TEST!
 
Last edited:
I havent been able to get out and test yet, got 8 inches of snow the past couple days with another 7 coming through tomorrow right. Definitely shitty conditions to test in. I will post results as soon as I get them, with combos, results, speeds along with snow conditions and temps. Going to be a couple days, going to wait for a spot on the lake to get packed down good so I'm not running powder, granted I will still be shredding that. :)


One other question, the rear of the rear transfer arm, is it supposed to be mounted in the front or rear hole on the back of the rails? As I recently had to replace rails, and mine was mounted I'm one hole, and the rails o got I could see were in the other hole. So wondering which hole was factory stock for a01, and wonderig what noticeable different I would feel going from one mounting position to the other
 
Last edited:
2000-2002 are mounted in the front hole as they use a shorter transfer rod for better transfer then the 98-99 .. But if you went with the longer rods you will need them in the back holes,,,,, as you will have binding issues and will not work properly......
 
Alright, just wanted to make sure they are in the right spot and they are.

So on the secondary, when I test with the red at 100 and say that's not enough, what is my next step, green at 70?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.


Back
Top