SRX plowing

Interesting point snopax, I never thought about the studded skid making it hard to turn, but that makes sense too. My runners measure 5" but they are like the sno stuff excallubur series where they have another short 2 1/2" or so fin ahead and behind that. The studs in the track; The outside row starts at the hard outside than tapers in about 3/8" for 4 rows than back to the outside. than in the middle of the track, it starts outside than tapers in over 12 rows until they meat in the middle. Anything seem wrong with any of that info?
 

What are the condition of your front shocks? Do you more than normal set-in,,, and also check travel putting weight on front bumper..... My have blown out shocks..
 
Front shocks seem a little strange to me maybe. Under no load, the front bumper sits about 15". If I stand on the front bumper, it goes down to 13 1/2". If i give it a jolt while standing on it, it will go down to 12 1/4" and not rise back up (I personally would expect it to come back up a bit from a jolt even with me on it. Now if I lift the front of the sled to it's full travel, than that is about 16 1/2" if I let go of the sled, it will not compress any more unless I physically squash it down again, and then it returns back to around 15". It just feels sort of passive to me that no matter what I do, it never really returns or fights back much. Maybe I am wrong, I've never had to pay much attention to this before on a sled.

Thanks again to everyone for your quick responses, I'm really hoping to get this fixed (if possible). It's just not safe for me running like this at the normal speeds that we ride trails at. I even got another buddy of mine (he has a firecat) to run it to see what he thought and he just said "it's just weird" and he wouldn't like it because he'd end up off in a corner... "but it's got lots of power though"
 
Yamaha specs are a guideline. adjust your limiter straps so that more thread is showing past the nut. that will bring in your skid and put more weight on the front. The tool to adjust the shocks is normally part of the tools that come with the sled, but it's very difficult to adjust them in the skid anyway.

As was said earlier, one step at a time so you see what works. Adjust your front coils so that you see more thread (compress them). What you describe of the front suspension movement seems normal to me. It's not impossible that your shocks are finished, but I wouldn't expect it. Yamaha or Ohlins shocks tend to last much longer than others.

My SRX was like that when new as well. stock track, no studs. I shortened the straps, then added a bit more pressure on the front. When it came time to replace the runners, I went with Stud Boy Shaper Bars. the host bar is shaped a bit like a figure 8 and made a big difference in the corners.
 
When I had my studs in (192) i had to run 10" carbides if i want the skid to transfer and still be able to turn. I also had studs on the out side and it does make it a little harder to turn. With this setup I let the limiter straps out to factory min. and used my transfer rod and the sled is like it was on rails. My shocks were set real close to factory (front and rear). Make sure there is nothing broken and try some bigger carbide!
 
One thought, and not to be smart,
How big are you?
I'm having the same issue, with my son's SRX.
He has no ski pressure at all.
Been trying to figure this out for a while now and I think I've found a solution.
I'm putting on Betheviper's widening kit and installing longer front shock's.
He's around 280# w/o gear, so basically rocking everything to be rear and lifting the front.
 
Thanks for all your help and suggestions guys. I've got it handling pretty decent. I'm definitely a ton happier with it. Now I just have the same complaint as everyone else. The rear suspension really hurts after 8 hrs (actually after the 1st 30 mins) of beating, especially with the trails being in as bad of condition as they are now. I'll try adjusting the FRA and see how that goes. If I can't figure something I'll probably just try to swap it out for either an M10 or edge skid this summer like everyone else.
 
Wayne084, i feel your pain Brother.Bought this 99 SRX couple months ago,at first running the rail Bed, i blamed it on lack of snow, crappy un groomed trail, but after about 400 miles so far this so called winter,i've bout had it.Short of coughing up the bux for that ExpertX skid BETHEVIPER has sitting in his shop,I started playing with suspension today,hopefully fixed before next run with the boys this sunday.
My toe out was 5cm on right ski, 15cm on left, adjusted that, ski compression was screwed all the way in,far as they would go(backed them off 3/4in)limiter straps about 5/8" threads stickin out past nut.Tested it, very little diff.
Just ordered a set of Woodys Slim Jims.Will Have them on by noon tomorrow, check back i will repost the diff tomorrow afternoon.
PS. My sled handled in trails like i had a round barrel under it,kept trying to squirm sideways,very tireing..
 
Just got back from a test run on the rail bed after installing the Woody's slim Jim Dooley's on my SRX, WOW!! is all i can say, what a freakin difference.Can actually run along with one hand on the haldlebar,not that i'm suggesting you try that, lol.Best $115 i spent on sled so far,Next to reverse that is,lol...
 
Gutter boy was the first one to suggest any thing about SKI ALINGMENT. If your skis are fighting each other thay will KILL steering, Compounded by only slightly off other settings and the outter stud and wahlah lets go straight! I have bender quick steer kit which helps alot but any thing under half throttle it corners like a DREAM! I have to admit the first few times I rode it I would nail it at a stop sign, take off like a bat out of hell, start to wonder to one side of the trail or orther. I would turn handle bar and for a half second PANIC,(no response) then think oh yeah, let off gas and turn!
 
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