WEll It WAS running rich before it went into the shop, plugs nice and wet, but it was sputtering a bit in the midrange,..
WEll now, the sputter is gone, but so is the HP, until about 7k rpm .. So what do you think happened? He leaned it out to much on the Needle adjustments?
WEll now, the sputter is gone, but so is the HP, until about 7k rpm .. So what do you think happened? He leaned it out to much on the Needle adjustments?
Also It takes 4 pulls to start , even when warm.. It only took 1 when warm before it went to the shop, and 3 on a completely cold , left outside @ 10* all night start
grapeape
New member
Did the shop tell you what they did, or can you call to find out? More info is helpfull for a sled we cant see , hear or ride.
grapeape said:
All I know , is he old me he "leaned out the midrange, on a certain needle jet , or something like that.. it feels like the engine is under a heavy load and boggy til 5-6k rpm then opens up.. The plugs are also dry and brown and white
It was the needle height.. So is there a video or something where I could adjust it myself, or are all 3 cylinders different.. He said he set the middle cylinder to be a little richer, but its still lean..
Nothing was changed on the main jets
Nothing was changed on the main jets
Needle Height
If you want to go back to the stock setting it would be position 3. There are 5 grooves in the needle where there is a C clip and two plastic washers. For position 3 the C clip would go in the middle groove with both washers below the C clip. You will need to take the top cover of the carburetor (2 screws) off and use a 2.5 mm ball head allen wrench to remove the screws from the slide pull mechanism. You will have to move the slide up and down to get the right position to remove the screws. The needle and washers are under that.
If you didn't ask for it to be leaned out it's possible that maybe the shop/friend that did it for you could offer some advice.
If you want to go back to the stock setting it would be position 3. There are 5 grooves in the needle where there is a C clip and two plastic washers. For position 3 the C clip would go in the middle groove with both washers below the C clip. You will need to take the top cover of the carburetor (2 screws) off and use a 2.5 mm ball head allen wrench to remove the screws from the slide pull mechanism. You will have to move the slide up and down to get the right position to remove the screws. The needle and washers are under that.
If you didn't ask for it to be leaned out it's possible that maybe the shop/friend that did it for you could offer some advice.
MIViper said:
Yea its just a bummer.. I got it back yesterday so I could ride all weekend, Now I have to wait til Tuesday to bring it back in again
That is the reason I like to work on my sleds and not send it to somebody, that way you know exactly what you did. Do a search on the tech pages and read, read, read. That is what I been doing for the last 5 years, and I learned a lot.
Nick
Nick
Nicko said:
I know i know
But when you dont know exactly what to do , and it needs to get done asap , I just get impatient
I have all of the stock #s for everything, so that helps . But is there anything else I should know or are there any links to knowing the settings to this sled? I understand Lean when temps are warm, rich when temps are cold, middle cylinder should run richer etc etc
Where are you located. There are lots of guys in MN on the site. Maybe you are close to someone that isn't doing anything and is looking to show you how to adjust carbs for a small fee (case of beer would work for me )
)Ryan B said:Where are you located. There are lots of guys in MN on the site. Maybe you are close to someone that isn't doing anything and is looking to show you how to adjust carbs for a small fee (case of beer would work for me
Sounds like a good price to me.
I'm in Duluth/superior area
Super Sled (mike) is from up that way. Shoot him a message and see if he'd give you a hand or maybe knows someone that would be willing to help you out. There's others from up that way on the site, but he's the only one that comes to mind.
These sleds run really good on stock jetting. I would get the jetting back to stock and see how it runs. Rejetting to make it run good is only hiding what is actually wrong. How bad did it stutter? Are your plugs wet from starting it cold, pull it in the garage and shutting it down? Is your choke sticking on? Open the hood and cycle the choke. Does the choke rod that goes parallel with engine release so that they are not pulling on the choke plungers? Did you recently blow a belt? Could have belt dust on the air jets. This will make it load up at idle and seem fat in the 1/8 to 1/2 throttle area. I accidentally used Yamalube 2M(marine oil). I can't count how many sparkplugs that fouled. Sled ran like crap too. Good luck.
yamahadream
New member
anyone know the plug gap for 98 700 vmax triple pipe and clutched up some, plugs i bought are ngk9es
HDYAMAHA84
Member
your main jets should be cyl. 1=145, 2=143.8 3=143.8, your pilot jets should all be 45 and your clip settings on 3. 11/2 turns out on your fuel screws. depending on temperature and altitude.. thats for 0 degrees 300-1700ft above sea level. I just rebuilt a 2000 sx700 lol