poor viper, dead bearing??

03viperguy

03viperguy

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Joined
Aug 9, 2003
Messages
5,245
Age
44
Location
Alton, NH
took the viper out on the first ride of the year, and about 6 or 7 miles in it ABRUPTLY stopped. like someone nailed the brake. even days later I can NOT turn it over using the clutch. thinking it is the bearing, being that all the plugs look great and the piston tops seem good as well, from what I can see through the plug holes. was riding with a buddy that is a doo tech and he thinks the same thing. sound about right for what others have experienced? no funny noises or anything, just running perfect and BANG, no pwer and like the brakes locked up. 9020 miles on it or so, always maintained great and gas drained and summerized. stored indoors as well. thanks boys, happy new years!
 
Man, that sucks. The only time I've ever seen a motor lock up like that is when my buddy ran his 700 gade out of oil on manistique lake. We had to dump some oil down the cylinders and work like hell to make it spin, but it did re-fire.
 
This is a long shot...but check that all your power valves are in one peice, I had a blade break off one on my SRX 2 years ago and I initially thought it was a bearing as well.

Bob
 
Yup, crank bearing locked up, had it happen twice on my other viper, you're cruising along and you just instantly lose power and stop, contact cb performance i had them redo mine and they did a good job
 
viperking, what was the turnaround and cost, if you dont mind sharing. good chance that if it is this that having the crank redone would be all I need, or does it usually damage other parts? thanks a lot for the input guys, will have it apart in the next few days when I get some time
 
If it is the bearing, you could just get by for a while by just replacing the one bad bearing...which is most likely the outer PTO side bearing. However I wouldn't recommend this with that many miles on the old girl. If you haven't rebuilt that engine yet, she definitely doesn't owe you anything so I would definitely throw some rings and pistons at it as well as a complete crank inspection/rebuild. It really depends on your budget. If you can't afford it right now but want to ride, then just pull the crank, determine what bearing it is, if it is a PTO side you can do it yourself, there is info in threads on this site.
 
03viperguy said:
viperking, what was the turnaround and cost, if you dont mind sharing. good chance that if it is this that having the crank redone would be all I need, or does it usually damage other parts? thanks a lot for the input guys, will have it apart in the next few days when I get some time
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i think it was around 2 weeks and around $200-$250 or something like that, i don't remember for sure, it's probably the inner bearing that keeps the crank from floating side to side in the cases so it will need to be sent out, shouldn't have any other damage other than that bearing
 
so with the head off I can grab the clutch and the piston closest to the clutch HARDLY moves and the others move maybe 1/2". thoughts? still thinking it is the bearing myself, waiting for my friend with a nice fiber optic scope to take a look. looking for opinions. thanks guys
 
Just open up the motor. It's time anyways with that many miles. Pistons and rings should be done.
 
head is off and the pto jug is off. not a believer in the piston and rings as maint, but I might do it anyways as I have to take it apart. everything looks great though as far as that goes. even still have the crosshatching on the walls.
 
well I pulled the rest of the jugs off, pulled the pistons and tried to crack the case. have all the bolts out of the bottom, and any odds and ends that are bolted on either side of the case, but it just does NOT want to come apart on the stator side. what am I doing wrong? on a side note, there are small bits of metal under the center piston. some scratches in the piston, and good blowby on all the pistons. still ran great right up until though... any thoughts on the small bits of metal and why I cant get it seperated??
 
03viperguy said:
well I pulled the rest of the jugs off, pulled the pistons and tried to crack the case. have all the bolts out of the bottom, and any odds and ends that are bolted on either side of the case, but it just does NOT want to come apart on the stator side. what am I doing wrong? on a side note, there are small bits of metal under the center piston. some scratches in the piston, and good blowby on all the pistons. still ran great right up until though... any thoughts on the small bits of metal and why I cant get it seperated??
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How about some pics?
 
just realized I am retarded, need to pull the flywheel. sometimes doing things tired is NOT worth it lol! what do I need for a puller and I still need to know the size of the large nut. I know its bigger thana 22mm, thats the biggest I have and its not big enough
 
you may have a couple seized guides that join between the cases.My 600 with a lot of miles on was a b*tch to get apart at the mag side.Didn't want to force anything with a screwdriver.Wiggle and twist and spary blaster in there and over and over..for over an hour.I was right,the guide was the culprit.On my SRX the cases cracked open just like in less then 30 seconds after all bolts removed.
 
stingray719 said:
WHATEVER you do, buy the opticool head gasket from Bender and set the needles one step richer.
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you think so? the pistons look fantastic other than the blowby, and I have NEVER overheated the sled in a tad over 9k miles. even with a few 1 mile wot runs across the lake up north.
 
bluemonster1 said:
you may have a couple seized guides that join between the cases.My 600 with a lot of miles on was a b*tch to get apart at the mag side.Didn't want to force anything with a screwdriver.Wiggle and twist and spary blaster in there and over and over..for over an hour.I was right,the guide was the culprit.On my SRX the cases cracked open just like in less then 30 seconds after all bolts removed.
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thanks. I do still need to pull the stator though right?
 
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