poor viper, dead bearing??

what is needed for pullers? do I need a specific one, or will one of those 3 armed spider pullers work?
 
the pic of the piston tops makes the center one look a lot more lean than it does in person. I think the flash washed it out. they all look about the same. thoughts, musings, ramblings? any and ALL input appreciated guys! waiting on a puller to get at the crank. by "feel" it seems like the pto bearing is shot, wondering where the hell the crap in the center jug came from though...
 
yeah, I have to grab another shot of the pistons without the flash. in person they all look about the same. what would cause the shavings under and not on top of the pistons??
 
The best thing to pull the flywheel is a harmonic balancer puller. just get 3 longer bolts about the size of the bolts that hold on the recoil. pops right off
 
03Viperguy,

How's the viper coming along? I have been wondering this and figured I ask the question in your thread...It seems as though cranks often go with the vipers, is this due to a poor design or known flaw? Can any adjustments be made to prevent this from happening? I have just over 3000 problem free miles on mine and I'd like to keep it this way as long as possible.

It also seems like the crank issues always happen the first time the sled is ridden for the season.
 
nope, waiting on a puller for the flywheel. I really think it was a mechanical failure of the bearing, but cant say for sure till its open.
 
yeah, I'm sure it's a bearing failure, but these must dry up during storage or something. I mean some are going with very low mileage Do you add oil to each cylinder during storage or fog heavily?
 
I run the tank dry and flood it with oil until it stall. keep using the choke to try and keep it going as it runs out of gas
 
03viperguy said:
2011-02-12001.jpg

tops look good, no? nice stock jetting
Click to expand...

To me looking at the picture(don't know if you orientated the cylinders as if they had set on the sled). I like the look of the wash on the left piston(in the picture), some will say that this cylinder is jetted rich but I like the looks of the wash, as the far right piston looks like the wash is a tad small for my liking. I would rather run rich and replace a plug once in a while rather than replace pistons. Also in my opinion if you richen up the jetting a jet size or two you will have more fuel/oil mixture in the charge and possibly help keep the temps down to keep the oil from migrating(or evaporating) off of the bearings at the center of the motor.

Check the pulse line and fuel pump for leaks as I believe the pulse line goes to the center cylinder and a pin hole will give you nightmares. You may also want to richen oil pump a couple of mm(1-2mm) to ensure that you are not on the lean ragged edge of oiling.

When reassembling your motor don't put it back together dry. Make sure you coat the bearings and pistons well so that there is lubrication from the second you fire it up. <-- Personal note from my engine building experience.
 
thanks for the insigh :) all the jetting is bone stock factory, I am the only owner and didnt do a thing to it in that regard. always ran perfect, right up until of course..
 
ajviper said:
03Viperguy,

How's the viper coming along? I have been wondering this and figured I ask the question in your thread...It seems as though cranks often go with the vipers, is this due to a poor design or known flaw? Can any adjustments be made to prevent this from happening? I have just over 3000 problem free miles on mine and I'd like to keep it this way as long as possible.

It also seems like the crank issues always happen the first time the sled is ridden for the season.
Click to expand...

They usually go on the first ride because of rusty brgs from not being fogged for storage, not a design flaw.
 
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