How to adjust the needle to run more rich? Pics..

C

comatoast

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Running lean with slp silencer, so I put the stock can back on, and it seems the same.. The owner before me had it adjusted lean for the conditions he was in.. So instead of being @ center , he was @ 2 or 4 .. what ever way leaned it out

So I want to set it back to stock , Are there 3 needles I have to adjust or just one main?

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your gonna have to pull your carb rack and drop the float bowl's to see what you have for the mains, piolt's
 
3 needles. One in each carb. They are under those cute little hats on each carb. Drop the needle/raise the clip for leaner, Raise needle/drop the clip for richer. There are little washers in there too to fine tune the adjustment. Generally speaking, at low elevation, the red-head 700 runs at the needles at position 3 with both washers under the clip, or at 3 with one over and one under.
 
needle settings

One of the first things we do is raise the clip one notch and leave the washers where they were. The common Yamaha burble clears up and the sled is much cleaner running. Hint : do not loose the clip ! Lay the needle on a flat surface and while retaining the clip with your thumb, push the needle down, the clip will slide off. Lack of retention with your thumb may cause the clip to become airborne, not good believe me ! Push the clip back on the needle the same way. Good luck !!!
 
Thanks everyone. First thing. Noticed when I took the cover ( hat ) off was a Phillips screw. What worries me is if I start messing with fine tuning like air/ fuel screws
 
comatoast said:
Thanks everyone. First thing. Noticed when I took the cover ( hat ) off was a Phillips screw. What worries me is if I start messing with fine tuning like air/ fuel screws
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your air/fuel should be 1 and half turns out from lightly seated
 
Will have a set of carbs apart to do needles, mains, and pilots within the next day or two. Will try and take some pics for you to show you how doing the needles is done.
 
one issue after another .. Now it wont even start, and the 2 times it did fire, it died in 10 seconds.. When I pulled the plugs out I took a pic ( below ) after it fired up for about 10-15 second then died.. Then noticed there was smoke coming out of the #1 cylinder ( I think.. The furthest one to the right when your sitting on the sled ) also smoke coming out of the flange where the stock can meets the manifold pipe ..

Man.. Before I brought the sled in , at least it ran fine.. A little rich but it still ran, ever since Ive got it back its been nothing but problems

Vids are uploading of the smoke issues..



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Do you have clean gas? Did it maybe plug the jets, are the chokes working right? You might as well pull the carbs off and clean them again. I ran 142.5s for mains the last 2 seasons with the needles leaned out slightly in the 2.5 position (one washer above and one washer below the clip with the clip in the middle position), and my sled ran very well, even when it was very cold out. I turned the fuel screw out 1 3/4 turns from slightly bottomed and set my idle to 1700 to 1800 to keep the lean idle hang away. The smoke from the cyl isn't too big a deal... Some might say my settings were too lean, but I didn't have any problem, even though I ride 3 or 4 times a year on "Da Range" where it can get pretty DAMN cold. I just don't do a lot of long pulls across the lake then...
 
sleddineinar said:
Do you have clean gas? Did it maybe plug the jets, are the chokes working right? You might as well pull the carbs off and clean them again. I ran 142.5s for mains the last 2 seasons with the needles leaned out slightly in the 2.5 position (one washer above and one washer below the clip with the clip in the middle position), and my sled ran very well, even when it was very cold out. I turned the fuel screw out 1 3/4 turns from slightly bottomed and set my idle to 1700 to 1800 to keep the lean idle hang away. The smoke from the cyl isn't too big a deal... Some might say my settings were too lean, but I didn't have any problem, even though I ride 3 or 4 times a year on "Da Range" where it can get pretty DAMN cold. I just don't do a lot of long pulls across the lake then...
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the guy who changed them is coming out to my house tomorrow to re do everything, so we'll see what happens.. I think ( from the link I posted earlier ) He has the needles in position 4
 
In the exhaust video, it looks like your missing a donut gasket in between the expansion pipe and the muffler.
 
Taking the carb covers off the top of the carbs you will see this, there is a few extra wires on these carbs since they are from a viper, but the SX has the same carbs.

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Looking down through the top you will see there is 2 allen head screws, using a 2.5 mm ball head allen wrench looosin these and remove the piece they are in which is attached to the arm.

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After you remove this you will be able to see the needle under it, careful as a washer may stick to the bottom of the piece you just removed.

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Next up carefully remove the needle and the 2 little washers. This pic shows what you should have removed.

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As you can see my clip is in the 3rd position from top meaning, 2 washers on the bottom is 3.0 and one on each side is 2.5. The little white washers are very small.

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Hope this helps. Take your time and don't be frustrated.
 
Racing666 said:
In the exhaust video, it looks like your missing a donut gasket in between the expansion pipe and the muffler.
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That's what I though too but it's on and Looks fine, maybe the pipes are just off a bit
 
Thanks for the pics :)

Its just one of those things that may be super easy, but if you dont know what to do , you might make things worse.. Gonna get on this tomorrow :)
 
He also just told me the needles were in the #2 position. He didn't listen to me and just put everything back to stock. I had all the numbers for needles, jets etc but yet he didn't do it. Hard to find good help these days...........

Starting and a very low idle. It went from starting right up and. 3k idle to a 5 pull start with about a 1k idle. Can I attempt to adjust that too? Atthus point I'm almost gonna say the hell with it and bring the damn thing to the dealer
 
OK.. There is a TON of usefull info in this forum.. And Im gonna go at it tomorrow.. So for the sx700 These are what I have for stock settings

main jet#1, is 145, 2/3 is 143.8, needle in #3 position, pilot#45, fuel screw at 1and half out ew@1,1/2

I have no Idea what the jet #s mean ( 145, 143.8 ) The needle Ill get once I see it, And Ill make a decision on where to move it once I see exactly where it is, and where the washers are

As for the Fuel screw. Is "bottoming" just as the screw touches something, then go 1.5-2 turns tighter? So what happens the more you turn the fuel screw from stock ( 1.5 turns )

1.75 turns will richen it?

Kind of the same question with the needle.. the top of the needle is Position 5, Correct? and as you go down to the bottom, ( point ) of it thats the 1 position on the bottom? and the lower # will be lean ..
1- Most lean
5- rich

3 stock..?/
 
jet numbers are how big the hole are. The bigger the hole the more gas goes through. Piped engines need bigger gets for more fuel.

As far as fuel screws go. The turns mean turn the screw till its just snug ( all the way tight) then back the screw out that nuber of turns.

Here is a post from mrviper on needles http://www.totallyamaha.net/forums/showthread.php?t=71011&highlight=jet+needle
 
super1c said:
jet numbers are how big the hole are. The bigger the hole the more gas goes through. Piped engines need bigger gets for more fuel.

As far as fuel screws go. The turns mean turn the screw till its just snug ( all the way tight) then back the screw out that nuber of turns.

Here is a post from mrviper on needles http://www.totallyamaha.net/forums/showthread.php?t=71011&highlight=jet+needle
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Thanks again :)

I hate the fact that I dont know alot about sled repair, so thats why Im just gonna dive into it, I just always fear doing MORE damage than when I started.. I mean If I turn a screw to much, or do something wrong, Ill end up blowing a motor for attempting to be a mechanic :o|

So thats why Im asking so many questions.. But all the help in here is awesome!!

Also thanks again for clarification.. I thought you were supposed to snug the fuel screw then turn an additional 1.5 turns.. I have NO idea how I missed that :whine:
 
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