****More PV Clearance****

RIVERRUNNER

RIVERRUNNER

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Joined
Sep 18, 2006
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Location
Duluth, Mn
Ok guys I have been having some pull through issues with my srx since I have got it and I have read most of the threads. I have used the 2.5 mm and still pull valves and have replace 4 of them in the 4500 miles I have put on my sled so at this point I am at new valves and new to me cables that are in really good shape and don't want to pull any more valves!
I have one question.
Which way allows me more clearance or less pull by the servo. I am thinking it is more mm between the blocks.
Meaning 3-3.5 mm instead of 2-2.5!
Is this correct.
Thanks again
 
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Well somethings up you have used vales and cables? cables used if wore will accelerate wear on a new/used valve because the cable end is not true round.

more mm will give more slack,pull the valve open less,try max spec but you shouldn't be having this problem.
 
They are the original cables on my sled thats why I am going to some different ones. They are in real nice shape and the ends are perfect. I am going to start at max and see what it is like and then I will go down from there. Just thought I would double check before I pull a bunch more. Thanks and good to see you around bud always a fast answer!
 
Yep everything is perfect and adjusted like the manual and the posts say. The cables are in the right place on the servo and have all the cable clips in the right places. The cables have new gaskets and o-rings and I seem to pull a valve every 1000 or so miles. I have 4 valves on my shelf and newer ones in the sled and now I find my self keeping an extra around. I also got a newer set of cables that I have cleaned up really good and they move very smoothly.
So I am going to start with 3mm between the blocks because I have 2-3mm allen wrenches and that should give me a little more wiggle room. I am just getting sick of the hassle!!!!
 
Yeah thats all really good. Uses the right amount of oil, set to speck. I use Amsoil and clean them a lot because of all the issues.
 
Well obviously there's a strain on the cable end the valve is pulling hard and till we find out why your problem is going to on going.,...try 3mm and post back...

also pull the cover and observe @ 6500 servo movement.
 
after you adjust your PV's with the 2.5 method and aligned up to the mark you made on the servo and the servo housing,take your visegrips and see if the servo will go beyonfd that mark approx 2,5 mm..then it should bottom out.Then it has the clearance/free play in there.
Even if you take one of the PV 's and housing off the cylinder..try turning the servo till marks line up..then look at the PV,it should be away from the housing seal about that 2.5mm.If your now turn servo beyond that mark apprx 2,5mm..the PV is now resting against the seal in the housing.If this is all good..then something else is stopping the PV's to move ahead... :dunno:
 
Ok guys I am going to get the cables and valves replaced and then I will post back results and will let you know. I checked the servo last week (it cycles fine at both 900 and 6500 rpm) after I found 2 cables broke off. Prier to this 1 of them was frayed (just barely) but i had a temp light flash pv cable problem looked and both were broke. I had the cables adjusted to the 2.5 mark, I never saw a light prier to them breaking so I am baffled and bought new cables and now I think I should start a little loose.
 
bluemonster1 said:
after you adjust your PV's with the 2.5 method and aligned up to the mark you made on the servo and the servo housing,take your visegrips and see if the servo will go beyonfd that mark approx 2,5 mm..then it should bottom out.Then it has the clearance/free play in there.
Even if you take one of the PV 's and housing off the cylinder..try turning the servo till marks line up..then look at the PV,it should be away from the housing seal about that 2.5mm.If your now turn servo beyond that mark apprx 2,5mm..the PV is now resting against the seal in the housing.If this is all good..then something else is stopping the PV's to move ahead... :dunno:
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I will try this blue and see what happens........how often do you guys replace valves? Do your where out? Wear through?
 
I always adjust by feel with manifold off. Never know with cable stretch, and new cables mixed with older ones. Could make a diiference?
 
I've had pull throughs and broken cables as well. In my opinion, cables would stretch with time and not get tighter, so if they are adjusted properly, they should be fine. I've had broken cables that resulted from the top of the valve wearing or flattening against the piece between it and the return spring and cutting the cable as the slot narrowed. We might forget how often these things cycle when we ride so even if they are adjusted perfectly, wear might be normal. I just did the brake line insert in mine like the tree man suggested. I think that should reduce wear on the valve.
 
River,

I'm guessing you have seen Daman's post from last year or was it two years ago in the FAQ, but in the event you haven't, perhaps you're adjusting your cables with the servo not at it's fully open position?

I didn't see his post until after I found this year what he did years back. I had tension on the cables after assembling them to the servo and when I energized the servo the wheel moved to the open position then back slightly.

Anyhow, I didn't see it mentioned so figured I would.
 
snomofo said:
River,

I'm guessing you have seen Daman's post from last year or was it two years ago in the FAQ, but in the event you haven't, perhaps you're adjusting your cables with the servo not at it's fully open position?

I didn't see his post until after I found this year what he did years back. I had tension on the cables after assembling them to the servo and when I energized the servo the wheel moved to the open position then back slightly.

Anyhow, I didn't see it mentioned so figured I would.
Click to expand...

Yep the pics are of my sled.........nice teal heads.....lol

Nope been over this soooooo many times that I make sure that the servo is where it should be and pulls and stops when cycled both with 12v's applied and then at 900 rpm.

Thanks though
 
snomofo said:
Ah, was wondering about the reference to heads. LOL.
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he's speaking of the heads on the motor in the posted link a nice shade,reminds me of an antique refridgerator or something else from the 50's.
 
Ok guys well I think I found my problem. I tried all of the ways that I know how to adjust them and I came up with 3 different tolerances each way.

The first method I used was taking the header off and adjusting by feel. Then I put it all back together and pulled the housings off of the heads and measured the way the manual wants you to measure. I came up with just less then 2mm. I put the block back on and moved on.

Next I try the method that everyone uses on here with the 2.5 mm allen wrenches like posted a couple of links up in the tech section. I have been setting my valves like this since I 2006. I found that with a 3 mm allen in between the two blocks, when I pulled and looked at the gap per the manual I was a about 2mm.

I then set my valves to spec as per the manual measuring between the washer on the valve and the valve collar. I set it to 3mm. I know that i might be on the loose side but for a while i am going to leave it like this and ride and see if it feels or performs any different.

I will say this......everyone has there own personal tolerances . One guy says this is flush and the other has a complete different idea of what that word means. Or how tight to get the cables seated without moving the servo.

With cables that were old I think they would bind a little and hold too much tension on the cable without allowing the tension on the servo pulley. Although I never had a code and never watched the servo jiggle back and forth.

What do you guys think?
 
RIVERRUNNER said:
snip - Next I try the method that everyone uses on here with the 2.5 mm allen wrenches like posted a couple of links up in the tech section. I have been setting my valves like this since I 2006. I found that with a 3 mm allen in between the two blocks, when I pulled and looked at the gap per the manual I was a about 2mm.


Not sure what you mean by blocks but the gap being measured in the service manual is the one between the PV cable end housing and PV housing. The gap found when loosening the two allen screws.


I then set my valves to spec as per the manual measuring between the washer on the valve and the valve collar. I set it to 3mm. snip


You lost me here. Unless I'm reading the manual wrong (the pdf version you supplied - thanks again), as I said above, the gap the manual references is the one created when loosening the two allen screws at the cable end of the PV housing, including the gasket.

snip

I've set mine so that they're flush with the exhaust port contour but still ensuring there is some slack. Once it's "feels" flush I push on the valve to check for further movement which indicates slack. After reassembly the clearance measured at the gap the manual refers to is about 1-2.5mm depending on which valve is measured.

I wanted to make sure this slack was still present after things were good and warm so I checked the gap after and it didn't change much.

I don't bother pulling the header pipe anymore and set them all to 2mm with a coat hanger smashed to 2mm that sits under each "ear" of the housings next to the allen screw to ensure the housings are parrallel to each other.

Make any sense?
Click to expand...
 
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