Totally Blue
New member
Something must be binding or maybe your not cleaning them well enough. Maybe its time to take your machine to a dealer or qualified mechanic. I have never had a pull through 01' 13,000kms.RIVERRUNNER said:
RIVERRUNNER
Active member
PV cable end housing and PV housing.
This is what I was try to describe by blocks!
I then set my valves to spec as per the manual measuring between the washer on the valve and the valve collar. I set it to 3mm.
I am using my 99 srx manual and it shows what you are describing above. This is also what I used to judge the different methods.
I've set mine so that they're flush with the exhaust port contour but still ensuring there is some slack. Once it's "feels" flush I push on the valve to check for further movement which indicates slack. After reassembly the clearance measured at the gap the manual refers to is about 1-2.5mm depending on which valve is measured.
There in lies your problem...my valves where a lot the same. When using the flush method the gaps where out of spec when rechecking via the maunal which is 2mm-3.5mm. I was 1.5mm on some and just shy of the 2mm on the others. I believe this is why my valve would pull through....just to close! I also found them to be to close with the allens between the blocks method too.
So i set mine like you did yours at a 3mm between the valve washer and the valve collar. I know I might have a little power loss but it is worth not buying valves every 500-1000 miles. We shall see!
This is what I was try to describe by blocks!
I then set my valves to spec as per the manual measuring between the washer on the valve and the valve collar. I set it to 3mm.
I am using my 99 srx manual and it shows what you are describing above. This is also what I used to judge the different methods.
I've set mine so that they're flush with the exhaust port contour but still ensuring there is some slack. Once it's "feels" flush I push on the valve to check for further movement which indicates slack. After reassembly the clearance measured at the gap the manual refers to is about 1-2.5mm depending on which valve is measured.
There in lies your problem...my valves where a lot the same. When using the flush method the gaps where out of spec when rechecking via the maunal which is 2mm-3.5mm. I was 1.5mm on some and just shy of the 2mm on the others. I believe this is why my valve would pull through....just to close! I also found them to be to close with the allens between the blocks method too.
So i set mine like you did yours at a 3mm between the valve washer and the valve collar. I know I might have a little power loss but it is worth not buying valves every 500-1000 miles. We shall see!
Last edited:
RIVERRUNNER
Active member
Totally Blue said:Something must be binding or maybe your not cleaning them well enough. Maybe its time to take your machine to a dealer or qualified mechanic. I have never had a pull through 01' 13,000kms.
I have to say that this is one of the best posts i have got yet!!
CLEAN IS CLEAN (would eat off them after I am done!!!!)I have been checking them about every 300 miles. And who the hell are you to judge my qualifications!!!!!!!!!! Maybe you should keep these posts to yourself!!!!!!!!!!
RIVERRUNNER said:
daman
New member
Yamaha's way/factory method is to give the valve proper "slack" and not so tight on the cable end and the proper point/spot in the exhust port vs. the "feel" methode this has been talked about many times over the years,not sure why river your having issues wish i was there to look see whats going on but i've never had your problems.
daman said:
Reading through the links in FAQ in posts from way back (2005ish) one stated that Bender claimed a couple HP difference when adjusting the PVs flush to the port contour vs. the prescribed method in the shop manual.
Perhaps there is data to suggest one is better than the other, performance wise. IMO - One wouldn't feel the difference in the arsometer but it could be the difference winning or loosing by a ski loop or tenth/hundrenth of a MPH.
IMO - for the average rider it wouldn't make a difference but for those looking to blueprint...
daman
New member
I remember that comment but never heard anything more from another source but with out some sort of dyno runs one really don't know for sure as you said. I'm sure there may be somewhat of a performance difference(gain) with the precise/perfect positioning of the valve and port height but IMO it would be minimal and not worth the trouble.snomofo said: