snomofo
VIP Lifetime Member
Unplug the TPS?
IMO -Its not full-proof in eliminating the sensor as a possible cause but whata got to loose.
If you notice any change I'd make a harness like SSB and check the signal output.
IMO -Its not full-proof in eliminating the sensor as a possible cause but whata got to loose.
If you notice any change I'd make a harness like SSB and check the signal output.
mrviper700
VIP Lifetime Member
Is the crank in phase?? they almost always show low top rpm.....
stator:you can check them with a ohm meter but thats just telling you if it has a open short, it likely is weak so its gonna show up good on the meter test but not supply the right amount of power. After all the other things you have checked/swapped, its gotta be your baby. either swap in a known good one from your 01 or buy a new one.
stator:you can check them with a ohm meter but thats just telling you if it has a open short, it likely is weak so its gonna show up good on the meter test but not supply the right amount of power. After all the other things you have checked/swapped, its gotta be your baby. either swap in a known good one from your 01 or buy a new one.
Update, swapped the stator and nothing however if I unplug the relays it works like a champ..I then unhook the harness from the hood and without having a tach I believe it is working properly so I search all wires on the hood and they are good, I then start to check the harness under the motor that goes to the hood and it has been updated and is in good shape. Guys i am stuck
Another update it does not work well with relays unplugged only rarely. Sled will pull 8500 and drop off to 7800-8000 where it will sit. Could a voltage regulator or bad ground do this?? I am running out of ideas! I have also changed the servo but can I open the servo fully and unplug it then run it to see if I can hold 8500?? My feeling is the servo is getting a signal to close, what may be sending it?? Cdi has also been swapped and no diff..
teamblue02SRx
New member
Did u say your mj is 150 across the board if so your number 1 cyl should be a touch smaller than the rest might explain plug being wet just a thought good luck
jminor1 said:I can't say the plug was soaked rather more wet than the others, I also changed the coil out on that barrel though and the plug is not that wet and burning good, carbs are also cleaned and good. Took it out after several more hours of testing and clutching and it will pull 8500 until 100kmh or so and drop right off to 7500 or so rpm and stay there!! Has anyone had this? I am now thinking cdi, who's got one for an 02??
I have the exact same problem. Driving me nuts.
2000 SRX 700. Pulls to 8,300 and then drops down to 7,500.
tedgoesfast
New member
if you can get on a very flat and long spot when it starts pulling tach back see if you can give it some choke it sounds like to me its running out of fuel.alot of guys up here jet the 02s the same as the 01s so there not so close to the edge
My 2000 is jetted as an 01.
bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
I leave mine stock jetting and have 45 pilots and have DCS..all is fine...tedgoesfast said:if you can get on a very flat and long spot when it starts pulling tach back see if you can give it some choke it sounds like to me its running out of fuel.alot of guys up here jet the 02s the same as the 01s so there not so close to the edge
did u play in the air box ??
bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
who me mod..not me..
not u blue him lollllll..i search alots for my friend 02 srx to find that the empty air box was the dammm problem ..now it pull like 150 horse all together loll
sideshowBob
VIP Member
One way to troubleshoot/elliminate the power valves and servo as a problem is to unplug the power valve servo then secure the actuater and cables in the full open position.
This will give you a little less bottom end but you will know at full throttle that the power valves are open...if you still have the problem it can't be power valve related.
As a side note...it was not uncommon for drag racers to secure the SRXs power valves in the open position and clutch them accordingly...no different.then setting up a ported/piped "Red Head"(doesn't have power valves)
JM.02c
Bob
This will give you a little less bottom end but you will know at full throttle that the power valves are open...if you still have the problem it can't be power valve related.
As a side note...it was not uncommon for drag racers to secure the SRXs power valves in the open position and clutch them accordingly...no different.then setting up a ported/piped "Red Head"(doesn't have power valves)
JM.02c
Bob
davidgboy
New member
would not seem likely that your crank is out of phase being that they are welded.
unless some welds were weak. inaccurate timing signals at full throttle? t.p.s.? may want to check it as snomofo sugg. as sideshowbob has shown though it may test different dynamically. might be worth putting in a new one. those special torx screws can be taken out with vise grips and replaced with allens. easy to calibrate once u read manual.
unless some welds were weak. inaccurate timing signals at full throttle? t.p.s.? may want to check it as snomofo sugg. as sideshowbob has shown though it may test different dynamically. might be worth putting in a new one. those special torx screws can be taken out with vise grips and replaced with allens. easy to calibrate once u read manual.
bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
maybe your clutch is in need of total rebuild then,,try another good running clutch from another sled with the correct set up.