hereismylife
Active member
holds 4000 for about 20-30 sec then comes down if you just watch it.
If you hit the blip the choke once it will come down to 3500 then go back up to 4000.
If you blip the choke 2 or 3 times to get it to come down to 2500 it will come down and almost stall.
I had no problems last yr at all....
I am at 2 turn on screw now. turned the idle down to 1400 -1500
Trying to figure this out.....
Thought it was only at wot lean or pipes getting hot....
When I am doing some jumps just tops out at 40 with some play around group it will do it.
You can just be cruising and come to a road to cross and stop it will do it...
I have no codes and runs great....
top speed is 95-100 and seems less hp from last yr.
last year speeds were 105 to 109 just hard to get to 100 this year...
Well I had a couple of long hard pulls....it does not always do it....
I could be putting around and it will hang...
I thought maybe a fuel pump,electronics,clutching,compression
Cant see how clutching would affect it since it is at idle.
This got me pretty confused.....
If you hit the blip the choke once it will come down to 3500 then go back up to 4000.
If you blip the choke 2 or 3 times to get it to come down to 2500 it will come down and almost stall.
I had no problems last yr at all....
I am at 2 turn on screw now. turned the idle down to 1400 -1500
Trying to figure this out.....
Thought it was only at wot lean or pipes getting hot....
When I am doing some jumps just tops out at 40 with some play around group it will do it.
You can just be cruising and come to a road to cross and stop it will do it...
I have no codes and runs great....
top speed is 95-100 and seems less hp from last yr.
last year speeds were 105 to 109 just hard to get to 100 this year...
Well I had a couple of long hard pulls....it does not always do it....
I could be putting around and it will hang...
I thought maybe a fuel pump,electronics,clutching,compression
Cant see how clutching would affect it since it is at idle.
This got me pretty confused.....
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turn the pilot screw another 1/4 turn should work
Manifild
I've had this problem on two vipers lately. It was a cracked manifold in both cases. One was creacked on the top and bottom and the other was only cracked on the bottom so was very hard to spot. Let the sled idle and put your hand under and over the "Y" pipe where they all come together. You'll feel the exhaust pulses if it's cracked bad enough.
Madmatt
I've had this problem on two vipers lately. It was a cracked manifold in both cases. One was creacked on the top and bottom and the other was only cracked on the bottom so was very hard to spot. Let the sled idle and put your hand under and over the "Y" pipe where they all come together. You'll feel the exhaust pulses if it's cracked bad enough.
Madmatt
hereismylife
Active member
modsrx said:turn the pilot screw another 1/4 turn should work
The thing with this screw is it should do this always at wot or it should have a pattern....
I was at 1 7/8 then now 2 turns.... It did not change anything...
When you turn this each time should you see some kind of change?
hereismylife
Active member
Madmatt said:I've had this problem on two vipers lately. It was a cracked manifold in both cases. One was creacked on the top and bottom and the other was only cracked on the bottom so was very hard to spot. Let the sled idle and put your hand under and over the "Y" pipe where they all come together. You'll feel the exhaust pulses if it's cracked bad enough.
Madmatt
Why would it only do this sometimes though? Not a pattern?
What did you do to fix this?
daman
New member
1-are carbs clean? you sure?
2-any air leaks suspected?
2-any air leaks suspected?
hereismylife
Active member
daman said:1-are carbs clean? you sure?
2-any air leaks suspected?
Carbs were cleaned 3 times. Pilots were clean and you can see through them.
I checked the boots but like I said before this does not have a pattern to it so the air leak should have some kind of pattern..
Maybe I am just missing something
To fix it
Well, on one I changed the manifold....on the other I welded it!
Madmatt
Well, on one I changed the manifold....on the other I welded it!
Madmatt
daman
New member
Try another 1/4 out with the pilots but thats getting out there,is this a stock sled?j_k_auto said:Carbs were cleaned 3 times. Pilots were clean and you can see through them.
I checked the boots but like I said before this does not have a pattern to it so the air leak should have some kind of pattern..
Maybe I am just missing something
Do you take the shelf off air box to make sure carb boots are sealed good?....... Check reeds also.......
Stock exhaust?
Above you said "pipes"....are you still running the stock exhaust or did you put pipes on it. The fact that it doesn't always do it and does it "putting around" and/or at WOT doesn't necessarily mean anything. If you havn't changed anything there is no reason your fuel screws should need to be out further than they were last year. Did you check the manifold yet? When I first heard about it I thought it was rediculous but when I found two cracked manifolds and BOTH sleds had hanging idle issues I started taking it pretty seriously.
Madmatt
Above you said "pipes"....are you still running the stock exhaust or did you put pipes on it. The fact that it doesn't always do it and does it "putting around" and/or at WOT doesn't necessarily mean anything. If you havn't changed anything there is no reason your fuel screws should need to be out further than they were last year. Did you check the manifold yet? When I first heard about it I thought it was rediculous but when I found two cracked manifolds and BOTH sleds had hanging idle issues I started taking it pretty seriously.
Madmatt
hereismylife
Active member
I checked the manifold with a light and mirror...all looks good.
Looked for about 15 min looking it over again.
The sled is all stock.
I always check the reeds when I pull the carbs. I make sure there is no gap with all of them. I dont pull them I just look very good at them.
With the airbox I always take the carb side off not at the box. I did check all the boots from the box to the engine. no cracks all tight...
I was hoping to find something.....
Looked for about 15 min looking it over again.
The sled is all stock.
I always check the reeds when I pull the carbs. I make sure there is no gap with all of them. I dont pull them I just look very good at them.
With the airbox I always take the carb side off not at the box. I did check all the boots from the box to the engine. no cracks all tight...
I was hoping to find something.....
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hereismylife
Active member
Maybe a pv is not returning the whole way....I check them every year
You should just do a search, this has been discussed at length.
you need to run your idle lower than stock by a few hundred rpms and It wil get rid of most of it. It will then only do it after long wot runs and quick shut downs.
you need to run your idle lower than stock by a few hundred rpms and It wil get rid of most of it. It will then only do it after long wot runs and quick shut downs.
hereismylife
Active member
BETHEVIPER said:You should just do a search, this has been discussed at length.
you need to run your idle lower than stock by a few hundred rpms and It wil get rid of most of it. It will then only do it after long wot runs and quick shut downs.
I did search this for a week now.....
I read about the exhaust heat....leaning....adjusting the idle...turning the fuel screw....
It does this just putting around the yard.. just playing some....sometimes at wot but not always...
Maybe 1 out of 3 wot runs........
I tried for the last week to figure this out and find out how to repeat the problem....
Idle hangs when it wants......
hereismylife
Active member
If anyone wants to give a call to maybe help....here is my cell...
Call any time
717 629 7237
Thanks
Call any time
717 629 7237
Thanks
You have an air leak,,,,,,,, take shelf off air box and wrap that seal around the carb inlet...........
hereismylife
Active member
update.....
took carbs apart again... I took the floats out and the main seat. The middle carb had alittle dirt in the screen.
I checked everything again and cleaned the pilots for the 4 time.
I looked at the boots at the box
everything looks great....
4 of us looked everything over...
pilots at 2 turns
Time to test run and report back.......![Thumbs Up ;)! ;)!](https://totallyamaha.net/images/smilies/div20.gif)
THANKS GUYS FOR ALL THE HELP...
During the ride I am going to adjust the idle to 1200-1400
bypass the tors
maybe get a vid if it acts up.....
took carbs apart again... I took the floats out and the main seat. The middle carb had alittle dirt in the screen.
I checked everything again and cleaned the pilots for the 4 time.
I looked at the boots at the box
everything looks great....
4 of us looked everything over...
pilots at 2 turns
Time to test run and report back.......
![Thumbs Up ;)! ;)!](https://totallyamaha.net/images/smilies/div20.gif)
THANKS GUYS FOR ALL THE HELP...
During the ride I am going to adjust the idle to 1200-1400
bypass the tors
maybe get a vid if it acts up.....
hereismylife
Active member
update....
Well I ran alittle last night. Had to cut the trip short.....
It seems like it only does this once it warms up. also I did not get a chance to test anything...
Anyhow atleast I know the carbs are now very clean......
I was hoping this was going to be solved....![Head Bang :o| :o|](https://totallyamaha.net/images/smilies/banghead.gif)
Well I ran alittle last night. Had to cut the trip short.....
It seems like it only does this once it warms up. also I did not get a chance to test anything...
Anyhow atleast I know the carbs are now very clean......
I was hoping this was going to be solved....
![Head Bang :o| :o|](https://totallyamaha.net/images/smilies/banghead.gif)
In regards to a possible air leak, have you tried spraying carb cleaner around the boots ,carbs, crankseals and gaskets while the sled is running. If there is a variance in the idle when you spray the cleaner, you have an air leak. Good luck