AM I living a dream or is it possible? Runs are coming up on the 5th so wanna get as good as I can. 700 red head Hauck piped reed spacers. Clutch tip by Yamaha Tony. 8ca with 15.6mm Orange Hauck with 3.7 in tip thats all I had for screws at time. 51/43 green spring @70. 22/40 gearing. Sled will snap 8500 then falls to 8-8200 and stays there. Pulls like a bear. Will get to 85-90mph real quick on the dream o meter. But pipes I should be over 8500 for peak power. Should I just drop tip weight or go up on wrap? Is 22/40 to low for 1000ft?
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By the numbers i am geared to low.
as it is now 8200rpm x 7 drive wheel size = 57400
1to1 x gearing 1.81 x 336 =608.16 So 57400/608.16 = 94.38 mph
By the numbers any way. So i need to get my rpms up and see if i can find a 38 or put in my 39 bottom gear.
as it is now 8200rpm x 7 drive wheel size = 57400
1to1 x gearing 1.81 x 336 =608.16 So 57400/608.16 = 94.38 mph
By the numbers any way. So i need to get my rpms up and see if i can find a 38 or put in my 39 bottom gear.
we have the same setup in my sons trail sled except he has slp pipes, I set his up for fast trail sled, we tried it on a radar run for the heck of it, he ran 105mph with a 200# guy on it, but, i have no way of knowing how much you weigh, yes, a 37,38,39 will get you more top speed, but get your motor to run perfect rpm first, then worry about gearing, your almost there, have fun!
I am going to wrap the sec up more first. Would I get any closer buy running a pri spring with a lower finish? I know Yami Tony runs his 8bu with 55gram and spring with a 120 finish. I wanna try a hauck black 50/125. I am going for 23/39 gears I think if not 22/39. I go 235lbs. May have to find a lighter rider.
YAMMIEGOD3:16
Active member
JOE, YOU WILL RUN THAT EASY. GO 23/40 GEARING, TAKE WRAP UP SLIGHTLY AND GET A LIGHTER DRIVER. TAKE IT TO THE BANK. 3:16 (yammie tony)
I did it on ice with my '99 SX 600 so you should be able to do it with yours.
Mods were:
12 deg F
Thinned head gasket
bored silencer
Welded exhaust manifold cross-over shut
bored air box
dropped needle 1-1/2 spaces
47.5 pilots
stock mains
20/40 gearing
51/43 helix
8ca weights
0.8g wieght in tip
Stock primary
Red secondary at 90 degrees
C&A skis with 4" carbid
96 1.175" Woody's Gold Diggers down the center of the track
1" camo track
Long travel front and rear with Viper shocks rebuilt/revalved for racing
trued jack shaft and drive shaft
trued 9-tooth drivers to drive shaft
aligned jack shaft and drive shaft square with rear of bulk head
turned all rear suspension wheels true
squared rear suspension to chassis
alignment, alignment alignment and straighten those shafts. You would not believe how much HP to the track you can free up over the way the sled comes to you from the factory.
100.2 mph in 1000ft from standing start
Mods were:
12 deg F
Thinned head gasket
bored silencer
Welded exhaust manifold cross-over shut
bored air box
dropped needle 1-1/2 spaces
47.5 pilots
stock mains
20/40 gearing
51/43 helix
8ca weights
0.8g wieght in tip
Stock primary
Red secondary at 90 degrees
C&A skis with 4" carbid
96 1.175" Woody's Gold Diggers down the center of the track
1" camo track
Long travel front and rear with Viper shocks rebuilt/revalved for racing
trued jack shaft and drive shaft
trued 9-tooth drivers to drive shaft
aligned jack shaft and drive shaft square with rear of bulk head
turned all rear suspension wheels true
squared rear suspension to chassis
alignment, alignment alignment and straighten those shafts. You would not believe how much HP to the track you can free up over the way the sled comes to you from the factory.
100.2 mph in 1000ft from standing start
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Thanks guys. I am thinking of doing the reed notch. Mills I see you are not running much tip weight. I am only got 3.7 in tip in mine and it would not pull it. But I did not have my wrap up to 80. We will see cross your fingers
speednutt
New member
For speed runs you have to think a little different than you would a drag race. First you want to gear your sled for 110% of the speed you want to hit. If you want the rpms to climb your going to either have to reduce your cam angle or else lighten your weights. If your engine wont pull the rpm you wont ever get the belt to the top of the clutch to gain the mph. It sounds like your secondary is wanting to shift to fast after you launch and it just cant pull the load.
The key with speed running is you need to reduce resistance both rolling and static. Keep the weights as light as you can and the cam angle to control shift as you dont want the secondary spring too tight that it will bind up. If you over tighten the spring too much it will fight you on the top end. I have run a stock mxzx 440 with 26/40 gearing and pulled 98mph in 1000' and that has about 30-40hp less than what your running. Also achieved that mph with 25/39 as well. I was 8350rpm as well. The sled might even seem slow coming out of the gate, but she has wheels on the big end. Ran 106mph in 1/4mile track with that same 440.
Also, make sure to loosen your track as much as you dare without it racheting, friction is dragging you down here. When your sled is on the ice, you should be able to push the sled with 2 fingers after the track and belt have been warmed up.
Also, if there is no wind on the day of the race, take off your carbides as they are taking off 1-2mph. Get a lighter driver too, my brother was 50 lbs lighter than myself and he would pull 3-4mph on the same sled in 1000'.
another thing that some over look is that you only need 96 studs in most machines. any more and you are adding rotating weight and 1 lb of rotating weight is equal to adding 7 pounds of static weight. So keep the studs to a minimum. Right now our race team is running 200hp and only run 120 studs and the machine dont spin.
Our team runs 132mph in 1000' in the Super Stock class and has been the world record holder at NSSR for over 10 years.
The key with speed running is you need to reduce resistance both rolling and static. Keep the weights as light as you can and the cam angle to control shift as you dont want the secondary spring too tight that it will bind up. If you over tighten the spring too much it will fight you on the top end. I have run a stock mxzx 440 with 26/40 gearing and pulled 98mph in 1000' and that has about 30-40hp less than what your running. Also achieved that mph with 25/39 as well. I was 8350rpm as well. The sled might even seem slow coming out of the gate, but she has wheels on the big end. Ran 106mph in 1/4mile track with that same 440.
Also, make sure to loosen your track as much as you dare without it racheting, friction is dragging you down here. When your sled is on the ice, you should be able to push the sled with 2 fingers after the track and belt have been warmed up.
Also, if there is no wind on the day of the race, take off your carbides as they are taking off 1-2mph. Get a lighter driver too, my brother was 50 lbs lighter than myself and he would pull 3-4mph on the same sled in 1000'.
another thing that some over look is that you only need 96 studs in most machines. any more and you are adding rotating weight and 1 lb of rotating weight is equal to adding 7 pounds of static weight. So keep the studs to a minimum. Right now our race team is running 200hp and only run 120 studs and the machine dont spin.
Our team runs 132mph in 1000' in the Super Stock class and has been the world record holder at NSSR for over 10 years.
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Thanks speed nutt. I planed on not running carbide. I heard that it can slow you down. I would love to see my sled come out of the hole like your skidoo pic.
I wrapped my sec up to 80 now it holds 8500 I would love to see 8800. But I dont know if i should lighten the weights up. I studded my track tonight put 120 1" gold diggers in a shaved track. How should I change my set up from radar vs drags? I really need to up load some new pics of the sled.
I wrapped my sec up to 80 now it holds 8500 I would love to see 8800. But I dont know if i should lighten the weights up. I studded my track tonight put 120 1" gold diggers in a shaved track. How should I change my set up from radar vs drags? I really need to up load some new pics of the sled.
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valin
Active member
Joe, you will never come out of the gate like Speednut's sled with trail studs. When he said he was running 120 studs, he did not mean trail studs. Coming out like that, I'd say that he is running chisels.
run picks for speed runs. chisels take away top end speed.valin said:
I wanted to run picks but i could only buy what I could afford. Be that they are on a shaved track should help some. I know they are not as sharp as picks.
valin
Active member
Being on a shaved track will not really help them all that much. Trail studs don't really penetrate the ice.......they gouge the ice when they spin, although, they will gouge further with more available penetration.
You will get away with 96 ice pics on a speed track, with a very slight roll on, and will be faster on top.
You will get away with 96 ice pics on a speed track, with a very slight roll on, and will be faster on top.
speednutt
New member
Ice picks are what are run, no chisels. The driver and owner of the sled is Ken Norman and he has worked on getting this sled dialed in for almost 15 years. Which he as been the world record holder for more than 10. I am his pit guy to him and his daughter who started driving the sled this year. There are a bunch of tricks out there to go fast.
Your signature says you are the webmaster of the NSSR website? Do you know what is going on with the NSSR this year? They haven't had many of the Big Guns coming out to play this year. I also have a question about running aftermarket front suspension on a stock class machine can you answer that for me? PM me if you wantspeednutt said:
Unless you knew somebody that gave you a good deal on regular trail studs then you could have got ice picks for the same price if not cheaper. Studboy makes a great push through ice pick called a kwik pik00sxrjoe said:
speednutt
New member
srx700guy - i sent you a PM, i dont want to hijack this guys thread
Speed nutt you spoke of squareing the jack shafts to the chassis. What do you use for a comon point to mesure from? I did get a deal on the studds they where 120 for about 105 bucks in them thats with nuts and backers. But now I have new backers i can buy picks. You are right the quick picks are the cheaper ones. Still those are 140 bucks for 96. But whats 40 bucks when your that far in. Now i am gonna kick my self in the A** for it.
I just found out its 660 not 1000 now I need to re-gear
have 1.82,1.77,1.74,and 1.70 to choose from
have 1.82,1.77,1.74,and 1.70 to choose from
Well tom is the big day found out the 3rd that the racing is 660 not 1000. I modified my studs put a nice point on them. So no i have carbide pics. I went with 21/40 gears should put me at roughly 90mph at 1 to 1. Hope every thing goes good.
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