Safe to Run????

B

Brett

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Jan 24, 2011
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Age
56
Location
CANADA
O.K., I posted earlier today about my temp light flashing etc. Now right from a cold start, the light doesn't blink 3 times like it should, it stays on and doesn't go out. Now I took it around the yard for a rip and cracked the throttle. It went out for a bit but then came back on and stayed on.....all coolant is up and not leaking. Any suggestions?? Is it OK to ride like this??
 
nope.....did not bleed it. how do you go about it? Is there ableeder valve? Where is it?
 
You'll get different replies, but here is my way.

1. remove seat
2. remove rear grab bar cover(you may or may not have to do this one depending on if you can get to the blead screw or not
3. remove small bleader screw in top of rear heat exchanger
NOTE/FYI: all bleader screws should have a copper washer and are on top
4. get the filler neck higher, than the screw that you just took out of the rear h/exchanger.
5. remove blead screw at the 'neck' that goes into the head
6. put either a 50/50 or a 60/40 mix into the system. Do this VERY,VERY slowly so that air has a chance to excape out any blead screw. I usually put the mixture into a 'pyrex' type container so this can be done at a metered rate. Not just 'chugging' out of the gallon container. When the coolant starts to come out the rear exchanger.....put screw back in.
7. continue to SLOWLY add coolant till it's full.
8. when full, install screw in the neck at the head and put cap on.
9. run sled till all exchangers are getting warm/hot.
10. top it off.
 
Last edited:
A couple of bucks said:
You'll get different replies, but here is my way.

1. remove seat
2. remove rear grab bar cover(you may or may not have to do this one depending on if you can get to the blead screw or not
3. remove small bleader screw in top of rear heat exchanger
NOTE/FYI: all bleader screws should have a copper washer and are on top
4. get the filler neck higher, than the screw that you just took out of the rear h/exchanger.
5. remove blead screw at the 'neck' that goes into the head
6. put either a 50/50 or a 60/40 mix into the system. Do this VERY,VERY slowly so that air has a chance to excape out any blead screw. I usually put the mixture into a 'pyrex' type container so this can be done at a metered rate. Not just 'chugging' out of the gallon container. When the coolant starts to come out the rear exchanger.....put screw back in.
7. continue to SLOWLY add coolant till it's full.
8. when full, install screw in the neck at the head and put cap on.
9. run sled till all exchangers are getting warm/hot.
10. top it off.
Click to expand...


X2 - a quick tip regarding the "chugging" of the gallon jug in COB's step 6...

If you turn the jug on it's side to poor (so the lable is facing up or down) you'll eliminate the chugging and have more control over the flow. Works for any rectangle sided jug including injector oil.
 
Waters88 said:
This time of year, you can also just drive it up and get the skis up on a snowbank. That also works well!
Click to expand...
Other ways around -- skis down not up.

The bleeder screw is in the back of the sled on the rear heat exchanger. You'd want the rear of the sled elevated above the front of the sled. I've done this a few times. I have a small incline near my garage that I've used when it was nice out side. Other wise I've used a jack in the back of the sled to elevate the back.
 
Rob VanSydenborgh said:
Where is the bleeder screw if you don't have a rear heat exchanger?
Click to expand...

Stock Viper crossover tube has a bleeder screw too, same location as if it had a rear cooler (under the seat)
 
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