I want to be sure that I have done everything possible to get the full benefit from adding SLP pipes to my 2002 SX Viper to get the horsepower to the track. I am mainly looking for top end speed. My viper has been extended to a 144" track.
What I have done so far:
SLP Pipes with ceramic coated can
Heel Clicker 40-10BY clutch weights
H/C chart suggestion of 4.8g Shoulder and 3.3g Tip (center is empty)
H/C red primary spring
Secondary is all stock
Bender Opticool head gasket
SRX rear heat exchanger
Main jets = 162.5 (I am at elevation of 1800')
Pilot jets = 47.5
On the first trial run, it ran only 8500-8600 RPMs. Problem is I didn't take a baseline before doing all the mods, so I don't know what the RPMs were before adding the pipes.
In the SLP instructions it suggests goint to a multi-angle helix of 46/36. Would that be worth the $100 or so for an aftermarket helix?
What I have done so far:
SLP Pipes with ceramic coated can
Heel Clicker 40-10BY clutch weights
H/C chart suggestion of 4.8g Shoulder and 3.3g Tip (center is empty)
H/C red primary spring
Secondary is all stock
Bender Opticool head gasket
SRX rear heat exchanger
Main jets = 162.5 (I am at elevation of 1800')
Pilot jets = 47.5
On the first trial run, it ran only 8500-8600 RPMs. Problem is I didn't take a baseline before doing all the mods, so I don't know what the RPMs were before adding the pipes.
In the SLP instructions it suggests goint to a multi-angle helix of 46/36. Would that be worth the $100 or so for an aftermarket helix?
SRX base gasket too
There was some talk about heel clickers requiring a shallow finish angle in order to work properly. Without that recipe in the kit, it will never work right. I would get that helix or something very close to it, meaning there are several people on here with that helix or similar that will seel to you much cheaper. chances are you going to have to play around with the HC's anyways to get the RPM spot on.
There was some talk about heel clickers requiring a shallow finish angle in order to work properly. Without that recipe in the kit, it will never work right. I would get that helix or something very close to it, meaning there are several people on here with that helix or similar that will seel to you much cheaper. chances are you going to have to play around with the HC's anyways to get the RPM spot on.
You may want to go to a bigger Main Jet for safety reasons, if trail riding, as per the instructions from SLP, if using ethanol blended fuel. It's on the SLP fuel set up sheet, under the main jet chart.
"Fuel Requirements: 91 octane minimum. Increase main jet by 2 sizes and raise E-clip .5 if ethonal blend fuel is used."
"Fuel Requirements: 91 octane minimum. Increase main jet by 2 sizes and raise E-clip .5 if ethonal blend fuel is used."
I did order an SRX base gasket, but it was evidently backordered from the place I orderd it from and I was ready to put everything back together and it still hadn't arrived. So I reassembled without the base gasket change. I received the gasket 1 week later.
02ViperMody44 said:
The place where I buy my fuel does not use ethanol in any of their grades of fuel. I buy the 91 octane based on SLP'd recommendation. But that isn't to say that on some ride somewhere I will need fuel and can only buy ethanol. Would it hurt to increase jets from 162.5 to 163.5 and still use 91 non-ethanol based gas?
Not to steal post but, is a SRX base gasket worth doing? Do you stack that with the viper gasket? Or does the viper not have a base gaskets, to rasie port timming some.
Thank you Matt
Thank you Matt
Skydog said:
My understanding is that you replace the existing Viper base gasket with the SRX base gasket. The openings in the gasket to allow the coolant flow are different between the Viper gasket and the SRX gasket. The SRX gasket allows the cylinders to cool better. Once you add pipes to the Viper, you need to do everything you can to help it keep it cool (SRX base gasket, Opticool head gasket, and SRX rear heat exchanger).
10 4 buddy
Thank you !!!!!
Thank you !!!!!
dcfjef said:
Absolutely not, would it hurt to up the mains. Remember, and I've learned this lesson, rich is annoying, but lean is expensive. I'm running 167.5, and have not fouled a plug, but I also have a mild trail port on mine from MrViper, for this year. Last year I was running 165's w/ no issues. I look at it as built in insurance, and last year I was running a dark brown w/ 165's. May also hope if you run into that mom and pop gas station in the middle of nowhere, or real cold day shooting across a lake. Just my 2 cents.
If I want to try and get my RPM up closer to 8900, do I need to add weight to the tip on the clutch weights? Will that also increase my top end speed? Also then does that hurt the hole shot?
Adding tip weight will decrease your shift RPM.
IMO...you need to pick up the recommended Helix to complete the package.
JM.02c
IMO...you need to pick up the recommended Helix to complete the package.
JM.02c
bolin22
New member
Add= Less Rpm; Remove= More Rpm
IF YOU ADD WEIGHT YOUR RPM WILL DROP. IF YOU REMOVE WEIGHT YOUR RPM WILL RISE.
IF YOU ADD WEIGHT YOUR RPM WILL DROP. IF YOU REMOVE WEIGHT YOUR RPM WILL RISE.
dcfjef said:
sideshowBob said:
Here is a blurb out of the instructions from the Heel Clickers. So if I have SLP triple pipes on my Viper, would I go with the recommended 46/36 helix or the 50/40 they use on the SRX?
Also I followed the piped viper line on the clutch weight suggestion.
Attachments
On the last line of the chart it looks to me like the 46/36 would be the best choice....but I don't run heel clickers so I have to defer to someone that does.
mod-it
Member
Are you looking at the charts for a Mnt Viper? You've completely changed it by putting a 144 on it, I assume you had to change the gearing too. Different gearing will completely change the clutch set-up. Should have had to gear down to turn the longer track, which will hurt your top end speed.
mod-it said:
They don't even list s separate line for a Mountain Viper. I have not messed with the gearing at all. I bought this sled used set up with the 144 extension so I am not sure what gearing it is currently using.
That could explain why the speedometer is off so much from actual GPS speed. I am off a good 20 MPH at WOT.
SRX_700 said:
I am consistently hitting 8500, maybe 8600 tops.
mod-it
Member
Who knows what they might have done when adding the 144. Guaranteed they had to gear it down, and they might have even taken out the 9-tooth drivers and put in 8-tooth. To use the charts you're going to need to know what your gear ratio is...
Whatever the case, you need to get the rpms up to 8900. You could just start by removing tip weight, but it would drive me nuts not knowing what the gear ratio is. I'd see what drivers it has and break open the chaincase to check what gears are on it.
Whatever the case, you need to get the rpms up to 8900. You could just start by removing tip weight, but it would drive me nuts not knowing what the gear ratio is. I'd see what drivers it has and break open the chaincase to check what gears are on it.