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MM800

MM800

Member
Joined
Sep 17, 2005
Messages
122
Age
55
Location
Coeur D' Alene ID
Your preference whithin reason! I can not figure out a stumble I have at 5200-5500 rpm. I have a 00 MM that I dont ride. It has bender pipes, carbon fiber reeds, peak head, boost bootle and transfer port inhancement ( I can get into that if you think it is an issue). Im running 140 mains, 52.5 pilots, air screws at 2 and 2 on the needle with 2 washers. If Im reading it right this is benders set up for 3500-7000. At 2500' it fires nice, idles high (2500). When you punsh it, it revs quick and smooth to 5200 stumbles to 5500 and goes. It has been like this for years. What the hell? Ok to the person who gives me the fix, I will send the m the money for there favorite booze. Up to 100.00 Im so tired of trying to figure this thing out. So the challenge is on. Give me your idea and I will try it and let everyone know. You should pm me so if some one has the same idea Ill look at the time. Good luck.!
 
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Agreed. The C/f Reeds Tend To Chip At The Tips And Will Do Weird Things. If The Reeds Are In Good Shape Put 55 Pilots In At 2.5 Turns And See If That Helps. The Idle Will Come Down For Sure (the High Idle Tells Me That You Are Lean). If That Helps But Doesnt Solve It, Put The Clip In Three And One Shim Under.
 
Raise clutch engagemt to 5600, set idle at 5500, should be fine....
j/k I have no ideas other than previous posts, I would lean towards reeds.
 
Needles set too lean? Drop to 2.5, maybe 3. Where are your washers at now? Stock position is 3 on a 00MM. Clip at 3 with both washers on bottom. Needs more fuel in the middle. Chris
 
That's where I'd start too. Bogging in the mid range, move needles to 3 and see what happens. It's lean on the idle too, that's why it has the high idle, but they overlap so I'd do the needles first and go from there.

Lol, never mind on the booze, happy to offer suggestions.
 
Have tried needles at 3 , 2.5 and now 2. Have tried 60 pilots all the way down to 52.5. Seems about best other than slight hanging idle at 2200 feet. Most ridding 3000-6000. Wondering about reeds
 
If it stumbles when you mash the throttle try .9 air jets. With your current set up hit the choke right before you hit the throttle if that helps its too lean.
Go from the stock 1 to .9 air jets. Took the stumble out of my piped SX back in the day.
 
Tried 7, 8,9 and now currently running 1.0 as bender recomends. Its the same with or without choke. Tried to power break it and bring rpms up while watching eggs gauge. All 3 within 50 degrees. Funny thing, last time I tried it acted like it loaded up. Wouldn't reve up even after a couple of blips on throttle. Ala toasted head gasket the other day.
 
140 on the mains sounds lean for todays fuel... I am at aobut 800-1000 above sea level and am running 157.5 mains. Just a shot in the dark.
 
Rode Saturday between 3500 and 6000. Sled was crisper down low and did pretty good up high. Bad spot never varried or if it did it wasnt noticeable. Its right at 1/4 to 1/3 throtle. At one point I looked down rpms were 5300, 950 degrees exaust temp, (had just been getting on it pretty hard). Flipped the choke and it was still there. Its right just before it hits the (i guess for a lack of a better word, power band). It jsut doesnt like 5200-5600 rpm. Gonna look at the reeds.
 
dont know if this helps

had the same problem with my 2000mm. The machine is trail ported, boost bottle, and piped. It bogged at 5500 every time. I went on the forum, and went round and round about the carbs. I kept playing with the jetting. doing plug tests. all showed they were fine. I wish I could say exactly what fixed it, but here is what I did, and it went away. I crancked the secondary clutch up a notch, and I changed out the pipes. I had hauk's and changed to slp's. I did both so I am not sure which corrected it, but both definitely did. It sounds like exactly the same problem. What spring are you running on your secondary, what helix, what degree of pressure is it cranked up to? I would do this first. I am at 10000ft plus. I Run a black silver spring at 90deg. if this doesn't correct it try slp pipes. Maybe someone in your area would let you borrow a pair to try out. I do not know why the pipes might have been the problem, but someone I trust said benders,aeens,hauks were tested and built in low altitude areas. SLP are tested, and made in Idaho. This guy said in his experience they were the best for high altitude riding. I noticed you were in idaho what altitude do you ride at? Hope this helps, and maybe a bottle of liquor? P.S. why do you not ride this sled? my 2 cents :letitsnow
 
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I built this sled and another in 99. The other has a 800 slp. Broke my neck in 00. Didnt start ridding again untill 05 and by then the wife was having kids and just never got her back into it. Rode it twice in the past 2 years over Christmas and new years. Forgot that it even had issues. This year changed from Aaen pipes to Benders. Didnt see any difference. I need to check my belt deflection and reeds. Center to center is good. Im running one of turks set ups but up until last weekend sleed had not seen any elevation since 00. Had been playing at my friends property at about 2200. I went with what was recomended by Turk and the issue still did not go away. That is why Im looking at other things. I run a 51/43 helix with silver spring. Set at 60. It seems a little soft and Im sure it is for higher elevation. Most of my testing has been down low. This is the same problem with 2 different sets of pipes. The cylinders have a window opened up in them on the intake skirt side. That was anothr thought I had. The problem is I changed so many things on it at once.... Tunnel, track, seat, front end, hood, pipes, clutching, boost bootle, reeds, peak head, reed spacers, ti jack and drive shafts, gears, opened up air box.....
 
alot of changes

I don't really know exactly what the problem is. I chased down what appears to be the same problem with my machine. It engaged well, the plugs read fine, but at exactly 5500 rpms it stumbled. when it hit 6000 it took off like a rocket. The only things I changed were switching to slp pipes, and cranked up the secondary clutch. It went away. I would crank up the secondary a notch. If it is too soft it will act like a stick shift car, if you go from first to third gear. it will catch up, but not for a while. see if that works. then maybe switch with your other machine the slp's my 2 cents
 
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So your thinking that it is shifting slightly at engagement dropping the belt down slightly. I thought about that, but reasoned that a new silver spring should not be that weak. I could see it maybe at 40 or less, but 60 should still be stiff enough. Unless my deflection is not good now and a little drop in the secondary is all it takes. Gonna check deflection and maybe give it a twist to 80 just to rule it out.
 
let me know

I would start there. one of these things fixed my machine. let me know how it goes I would like to know which of them was the fix. check you center to center on your clutches, as well as the offset. then I would try 70 deg then maybe 90 deg. It is an easy thing to change (really). I only have slp set up sheets, but it says 0-5000 ft use a green spring with 70 deg tension. 43deg helix. But above 5000 a silver with 90 deg. all of these must work together to create just enough side pressure to keep the belt from slipping, but not enough that you are loosing lots to friction. that progressive helix is like holding on to first gear as long as you can before you shift to second, my thoughts are the spring ( kind of) controls that second and third (gear) shift. My understanding is that when you first start a steeper angle holds better (on the belt), but as rpm'a and speed builds you dont need as much side pressure on the belt so a more shallow angle saves on friction and belt wear. But getting exactly as much as needed requires some trial and error, and maybe some detective work. good luck. let me know :2strokes:
 
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