installing driveshaft

D

destey

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Joined
Jan 28, 2010
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45
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Vermont
I pretty much threw in the towel for the season yesterday, ruined the speedo bearing trying to get the driveshaft installed.

But if I get a change of heart, how the f do you put that thing in? After about 2 hours of struggling with it, I got the sledge hammer and a 2x4 and beat the piss out of it (how the bearing got ruined), but it still won't slide over enough for the speedo side to get in place. I checked and its not getting caught on the chaincase side.

Not too happy with yamaha engineering at this point. Just bought the sled and had driveshaft twisted off, pv pull thru, rear suspension bearing seize up, wire harness rub through and a stator melt in a month and a half.
 
The speedo bearing should be the last thing you put together. i just did mine. The axle goes in the PTO side first, and then chaincase side. Mine went in no problem.
 
9801srx said:
do you have the chain case housing removed from the sled?
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yeah and jackshaft is out too. rear skid is unbolted. I thought of removing the rear skid from the track but it wasn't easy getting it in a couple of months ago when i did the skid bearings.
 
SRX_700 said:
The speedo bearing should be the last thing you put together. i just did mine. The axle goes in the PTO side first, and then chaincase side. Mine went in no problem.
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seems like the shaft sticks out pretty far on the chaincase side, is there enough side play in that end of the shaft in? I guess there would have to be if you were successful
 
destey said:
yeah and jackshaft is out too. rear skid is unbolted. I thought of removing the rear skid from the track but it wasn't easy getting it in a couple of months ago when i did the skid bearings.
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ok ,well thats good . imo you should remove the rear skid ,it will make things easyer and as srx 700 said above the pto brg should be installed after the drive shaft is in place . remove the speedo drive (three nuts ) and the brg will come off also and give you some more clearence.
 
Something is not right if it is binding. All I can do is go through the whole procedure which is most easily done by pointing you to previous posts. Have faith, these machine are well engineered. I have worked on all 4 major brands, and a number of the others through the years. Yamaha has the best engineering.

Here is a previous post . . . <I will have to find the thread later>

You can always do a search or look in the Tech Pages for more help.
 
Ding said:
Something is not right if it is binding. All I can do is go through the whole procedure which is most easily done by pointing you to previous posts. Have faith, these machine are well engineered. I have worked on all 4 major brands, and a number of the others through the years. Yamaha has the best engineering.

Here is a previous post . . . <I will have to find the thread later>

You can always do a search or look in the Tech Pages for more help.
Click to expand...

I found a few threads via search and the tech pages had a good writeup.

Is the speedo bearing supposed to have 2 set screws? I took mine out of the bag and it only had one, but there's two tapped holes. Is one just an extra? Its an All-Balls driveshaft kit.
 
I think you should definitely remove the skid, at least then you will have lots of slack to push the track ahead so the drivers do not hang up on the track as you are wiggling it back and fourth. In my opinion, if you have to pound the piss out of it to get it off you dfefinitely didn't remove all the necessary parts, the drive shaft should fall right out. The drive shaft bearing is also very easy to take off, actually everything on the PTO side should be easy to remove. The only part of the entire process that really makes me swear is the gd parking brake assembly! everything else comes off easily.

As a side note, this is a good opportunity to change your chaincase bearing as well, do your jackshaft bearing as well seeing as you have it all apart. Good luck
 
Viper_Jim said:
The only part of the entire process that really makes me swear is the gd parking brake assembly! everything else comes off easily.
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IT IS NOT NECESSARY TO REMOVE THE PARKING BRAKE ASSEMBLY WHEN CHANGING TRACK OR DRIVESHAFT.
 
bolin22 said:
IT IS NOT NECESSARY TO REMOVE THE PARKING BRAKE ASSEMBLY WHEN CHANGING TRACK OR DRIVESHAFT.
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I had to remove mine in order to haul the chain case off the sled, I could see no other way around it. I didn't think it was possible to remove the driveshaft without removing the chain case.
 
Viper_Jim said:
I had to remove mine in order to haul the chain case off the sled, I could see no other way around it. I didn't think it was possible to remove the driveshaft without removing the chain case.
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you do have to remove the chaincase but it is much easier to leave the park brake intacted and slide the brake disc off the jack shaft with the chain case.
 
could use more info. make sure the drive axel is the correct one. if used mm,sxv, viper are not exactly the same axel. then I would check the order of collars that go into the crank. do not use the jackshaft spacer/collar on accident. the track is a b@#$. it can hang up alot. next make sure that the drivers are in the correct spot, was not straightforeward for me. they are not centered on the shaft, because of the length needed for the gears to go on the end of the shaft. Look at all the little things, it is usually a small assumption that causes you the biggest problem. I know your pain. take a step back drink a beer and examine things. good luck
 
I use red locktite on the set screws. I've had too many back off with blue locktite. You really need both screws. It is hard on the shaft if the inner race is allowed to spin on the shaft.
 
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