RPM Dropping From 8,500 to 7,500


bluemonster1 said:
what helix u using SRX_ 700.I cut my stock helix down in center to lower the belt in 2ndary also..but it don't go that low.I matched it up to what the 51/43 and 50/40 helixs allow belt to drop.
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It says 8BV71 which I believe is stock.
 
bluemonster1 said:
did u find out why the belt dropped sp low..man the belt should of almost climbed out of primary then..did it??
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Never did climb over the primary. Thinking the spring is weak and/or it wasn't wrapped properly. Was at 80 degrees (6 and 2 hole).
 
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SRX_700 said:
Check this out. The belt went so low on the secondary, it went below the 2 sheaves at WOT.
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Anybody have any idea why the stock OEM belt went so low? Belt width is at 35 mm (within spec) and deflection was checked with 1 mm over sheaves.
 
maybe someone remove some material on the helix or somewhere else ....so that let the belt go further into the secondary
 
The helix also looks stock, but hard to tell without seeing a stock one beside it. As for the spring, the free length limit per manual says 75 mm. Mine is at 75 mm. How else do I test if the spring is still good or not?
 
The helix does not seem to be manipulated in any way.
 

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Would you happen to know the ft/lbs of the moveable sheave on the secondary? I read somewhere that it was 12 lbs but that seems low. Just trying to figure out how to test the red spring with a 80 wrap for wear as parts here in Canada are very expensive for Yamahas.
 
bluemonster1 said:
then you spring is sacked or the bushing are worn to a point where they are binding..
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How do you know if you don't know what spec ft/lbs the moveable sheave is suppose to be with a new red 80 wrap spring?
 
it won't pull rpms properly.Had that issue few years back,my SRX just wouldn't perform well clutch wise.Just before season was ending,I switched clutches from mt 600..changed weights and rollers and the thing screamed again..so I new bushings were binding,keeping rpms down.The following summer I changed all bushings,glides,roller bushings,ramp buttons..etc..As a regular routine I plan on rebuilding the clutches every 2 seasons from now on just to make sure they are always up to snuff..got all the parts here already..summer time or falltime job amongst other stuff.
 
bluemonster1 said:
it won't pull rpms properly.Had that issue few years back,my SRX just wouldn't perform well clutch wise.Just before season was ending,I switched clutches from mt 600..changed weights and rollers and the thing screamed again..so I new bushings were binding,keeping rpms down.The following summer I changed all bushings,glides,roller bushings,ramp buttons..etc..As a regular routine I plan on rebuilding the clutches every 2 seasons from now on just to make sure they are always up to snuff..got all the parts here already..summer time or falltime job amongst other stuff.
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Are you referring to the primary or secondary? I only have the secondary apart right now and the bushings and ramp shoes look good. Shoes have minumum spec wear of 1.0 mm and I am at 1.63 mm. Bushings are still round with little brass showing. I am inclined to think the primary spring is shot as engagment RPM went from 3,800 to 3,500.
 
On the secondary every 2 seasons you replace 3 ramp shoes, 2 bushings and the spring?
 
i will be doing that every 2 seasons..yep.. ;)! Clutches take a beating man..opening/closing 100 thousand time a ride and heat..makes sense to..its the heart of the machine..if it struggles,the rest will falter also
 
srx700, not very scientific but I set my sleds where I turn the spring as far as I can with both hands and set it there. Works great for high mountain powder.
 
Stingray719. I see you have a 66 Vette. Use to own a 63 Split Window. Good times!
 
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