can't believe I did this

bluemonster1

bluemonster1

LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
Joined
Dec 30, 2005
Messages
12,690
Age
68
Location
Howden ,Manitoba,Canada
a few years back I changed the jackshaft because of a spun bearing/set-screws...The retainer plates for the bearing couple the bearing and get bolted in place on frame,all on the inside.Well today I notice my secondary backside of sheave that moves is grinding against the retainer plate,yet on the other sleds it didn't.Then I noticed I installed the retainer plate on the outside of the frame,and the other plate on the inside as should be..Well this is the cause of the grinding going on.The plate protrudes way to much towards secondary..like 5mm at least to much.So every time I pin it and the secondary wants to open..it stops there and starts grinding,then the belt is not dropping all the way and then the primary is not pulling belt up all the way..or it is trying to and maybe stretching the belt.WOW! how did I manage to do this.....Probably losing 10 to 15 mph by clutches not shifting out all the way....All I can do now without spending tons of time removing chaincase,gears,rotor,bearings just to slide shaft back..is to remove air box,undo the 2 bolts..take plate to grinder and grind her down thinner and re-install and see how sled performs.It never fails with sleds..you have to have your eyes and brain coordinated and not let stupid things happen.It would be something if the SRX starts to run better now...imagine a whole 5mm sticking out more then normal..that has to change things... :o| :o| :o|
 
actually I checked and the bearing is not moving and the shaft is solid..no movement.Probably can't grind down enough of the outside plate because there wouldn't be enough material left ..oh well..probably park her for the season and get on the 600 and give her..a lot of drift busting to do yet and climbing..not to mention ditch bangin...
2 years and havn't dialed in the SRX..thinking of parting it out..will think on it this summer if I will or not.Just want to ride a sled that doesn't consumme all my time in wrenching...or take the SRX into the Flood Water that will be coming and see if it will make it a mile or 1 foot across.If it sinks..it stays there...don't really care..
 
Trust me...you are not the first or last one to do this. Usually its noticed right away because the bearing fits a little loose as the bulkhead is now retaining the bearing rather then the bearing collars. I would definately fix this properly as the bearing could damage the bulkhead if its loose enough to spin.
 
now i wonder what your sled would do on top end, w/the 8bu-10's and the bearing situation fixed properly, allowing full shift of the clutches.
 
check yours mod..check yours..lolll..Cannot believe these things actually happen..I didn't install it wrong on the 600 when I changed tracks and all bearings years back..why on the SRX..its mods fault...lol
 
bluemonster1 said:
check yours mod..check yours..lolll..Cannot believe these things actually happen..I didn't install it wrong on the 600 when I changed tracks and all bearings years back..why on the SRX..its mods fault...lol
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Old age?
 
Bob its been like that for at least a couple of seasons...and there is no play in there..guess I lucked out.I can now see that the outside plate is not even touching the bearing...lol..thanks to the aluminum frame eh!! I must of really jambed that bearing nice and tight in there and then tightened set screws after.
 
bluemonster1 said:
is there a fast way to slide back the jackshaft or not???
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Nope...only way I know is to loosen track, remove the exhaust, gears and chaincase ect ect...its not really that bad and you can have it done in a few hours. It wouldn't hurt to replace the jackshaft bearing as they take a beating .
I have thought many times a person should mod the bulkhead with a replaceable/greasable jackshaft bearing setup, it wouldn't be that difficult.
 
I have been told to cut out the frame to get bearing and plates out and then make a new re-enforcing plate to cover up again.But once I do that I will lose the exact measurements were the bearin plates would mount,don't want the jackshaft running off 90 degrees to frame.I already have all new bearings for both my sleds,,every bearing you can think of..cost me around $380 and just sitting in the drawer in the garage.If and when I decide to order a new track..then was going to replace allthe drive bearings at same time..
 
Just went to go look at it again.Yep the bearing is resting tight against the frame and bearing is solid.So if I still remove the 2 bolts,take the retaining plate off and grind the lip right off to a flat plate and re-installed it..the bearing should still jamb up tight to the frame as before(lasted 2 years already).Then the projection part would be gone and clutch sheave should then be able to slide all the way open.Got nothin to lose trying it..season is almost over and I could still see if my sled will perform better without this issue..should work for now.
 
also the retaining plate on the inside was cracked 1/4 way around the flange a while back,and I ended welding that on the sled.Man if it would of cracked a little more,that bearing and shaft would of been a wobbling around in there..lucky me again..but like I said..the bearing is still snug in there and the shaft has no movement in it..a miracle.
 
sounds like you were getting over confident when putting it back together ...or you just got tired of going to the other sled to see how it was put together ...every time i work on one of my sleds i probally make at least a dozen trips back amd forth ....just sucks when you got to do the same job more than once but we have all done it shouldnt take but a few hours to make it rite
 
Hey I've done that before! You will start running into problems with the secondary eating bushings. Cut your losses and pull the chaincase and do it right. I ended up breaking those 2 retainer plates...I put 3 of them together like this until I figured it out
 
I took the outside plate off,ground down the flange to a point where bearing slides thru the opening,but still gets caught from going thru(tried with a new bearing).Then installed it in reverse so the flange couples the bearing and tightened he rup.She is solid for now.There was no play from the bearing at all against the bulkhead..lucky me.Checked alignment will tool and ready to go.I will do it by the book in the fall when I rip here all apart to change bearings.
 
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