since you only have a helix listed, this means the primary clutch is all stock and your running a 47/41 helix?
clutching and gas mpg go hand in hand, if your revving the engine higher to run at the same 60mph with a smaller helix as compared to the stock helix then your going to use more gas because of the higher rpm at the same speed.
maybe you could elaborate a little more on whats in the clutching set up.
clutching and gas mpg go hand in hand, if your revving the engine higher to run at the same 60mph with a smaller helix as compared to the stock helix then your going to use more gas because of the higher rpm at the same speed.
maybe you could elaborate a little more on whats in the clutching set up.
It should be a 49/41 helix. It's a Hauck "G" and that is the only thing that isn't stock for the clutching as far as I know. I am going from memory here but I believe it has 8DN-20 weights, Y-W-Y primary spring, and a green secondary spring. I believe those should all be stock for an '01. The helix was on the sled already when I bought it a month ago.
Stephfg said:
The sled has 5000 miles on it.
drive your car like that . see what happens 
twyztid said:
I see, but the stock helix is a straight 47 along with a red sec. spring. I would think if the primary is stock, the sled would over rev with only a 41 degree finish angle, along with a stiffer green sec spring.
Nope, I was actually a little under... 8400 rpms.
Check reeds? Worn or broken? If they have never been replaced, it is due.
They were replaced just before this trip.
Seems to me that you have got to be down on power from the engine then.twyztid said:
Stephfg
New member
take the cover off the powervalve servo and press down on the cables. I'd bet one is cut at the valve, and you'll be able to tell by the lack of tension in one cable. I pulled my powervalves one last week when I was having issues. They were fine. Sunday it didn't feel right. I had a cable cut. It doesn't take long.
Mr Viper's assessment of your clutching it that your sled should overrev with that set up, but it's revving close to where it should be. A cut cable or pull through usually brings down the rpm by 400 (at least in my experience).
it's just 3 screws to eliminate a possibility.
Mr Viper's assessment of your clutching it that your sled should overrev with that set up, but it's revving close to where it should be. A cut cable or pull through usually brings down the rpm by 400 (at least in my experience).
it's just 3 screws to eliminate a possibility.
I finally got around to looking over my sled recently and found that my middle powervalve was pulled thru. That probably explains the terrible gas mileage. I am getting the stainless tips done so that shouldn't be an issue anymore.
mrviper700, you commented that you didn't think I should be running the 49/41 helix with the stock primary. What would your suggestion be? Would I be better off with a stock 47 than the 49/41 that is in there right now? I have one of those now. What do you think of a Dalton 54/42? Any good with a stock clutch or would it be just as bad with the low finish angle?
mrviper700, you commented that you didn't think I should be running the 49/41 helix with the stock primary. What would your suggestion be? Would I be better off with a stock 47 than the 49/41 that is in there right now? I have one of those now. What do you think of a Dalton 54/42? Any good with a stock clutch or would it be just as bad with the low finish angle?
If your engine was making the right amount of power you would over rev on topend with a 41 degree finish angle if the front clutch weights and spring were stock. The smaller the finish angle the more it will rev, thats 6 degrees less then stock, so to compensate you should need to add tip weight to the clutch weights to bring the rpm down or go to a lower finish kg front primary spring. if all was good you should turning 8700+ rpm as a guess
I would suggest the stock helix if all else is stock over a 52/42,again the finish angle would be too shallow if nothing else is changed. When you increase the first angle your shifting the sled harder and the finish angle can be a bit more shallow but not 5-7 degrres without over rev issues appearing.
sounds like to me honestly your not making peak power if its only turning 8400 with a 41 finish angle.
Easy check will be to put in the stock 47, it likely will be around 8000-8100 peak rpm if you have engine not making power
I would suggest the stock helix if all else is stock over a 52/42,again the finish angle would be too shallow if nothing else is changed. When you increase the first angle your shifting the sled harder and the finish angle can be a bit more shallow but not 5-7 degrres without over rev issues appearing.
sounds like to me honestly your not making peak power if its only turning 8400 with a 41 finish angle.
Easy check will be to put in the stock 47, it likely will be around 8000-8100 peak rpm if you have engine not making power
I just checked and my other helix wasn't a stock 47. It was the leftover stock 41 that I have from a Vmax 600 I had early last winter. I guess I will have to find a 47 a different aftermarket helix with a higher finish angle. I saw a 52R46 for sale. Maybe I should try that one out.
Does the helix angle affect fuel mileage much? I am sure that my main problem back in March was the pulled thru powervalve
Does the helix angle affect fuel mileage much? I am sure that my main problem back in March was the pulled thru powervalve
I have 3 or 4 stock 47 helixs, you pay for the shipping and you can have one, pm me your information if you want it.
helix doesnt exactly do alot to gas mpg on its own, its the whole clutch set up together. If you have clutch set up 'A" and your engine turns 8500rpm max and you have good belt belt sqeeze with minaml heat output(heat is the first sign you have belt slip) youll get good gas mpg
clutch set up "B" has the same 8500rpm peak but has lots of heat at slower speeds then its going to get worse mileage because your slipping the belt and youd need to give the sled more gas to maintian the same speed because its slipping the belt not applying all the power(or same power as clutch "A") to the track.
helix doesnt exactly do alot to gas mpg on its own, its the whole clutch set up together. If you have clutch set up 'A" and your engine turns 8500rpm max and you have good belt belt sqeeze with minaml heat output(heat is the first sign you have belt slip) youll get good gas mpg
clutch set up "B" has the same 8500rpm peak but has lots of heat at slower speeds then its going to get worse mileage because your slipping the belt and youd need to give the sled more gas to maintian the same speed because its slipping the belt not applying all the power(or same power as clutch "A") to the track.
I just talked to amatosrx (a very good friend of mine) and he has a stock 47 helix that I could try but I would still like one for myself. He doesn't want to give it up. I believe he is going to be sending his cylinders/pistons/heads to you to look over off the sled he is currently building. Any chance you could just send one of the 47's in the package when you send his parts back. I really appreciate the offer.
I think I would like to try out the stock 47 (since I haven't ever run this sled with a stock helix yet) and maybe get that 52R46 if it is still available and compare the two and see what RPMs it runs with those with a stock primary and either a green or red secondary spring. Eventually I would like to get a set of Heelclickers to play with. Another friend of mine had good results last winter with Heelclickers and the same Hauck "G" 49/41 helix.
I think I would like to try out the stock 47 (since I haven't ever run this sled with a stock helix yet) and maybe get that 52R46 if it is still available and compare the two and see what RPMs it runs with those with a stock primary and either a green or red secondary spring. Eventually I would like to get a set of Heelclickers to play with. Another friend of mine had good results last winter with Heelclickers and the same Hauck "G" 49/41 helix.
Glad you found the likely culprit. Do you know when the last time the bearings were replaced in the suspension/drivetrain? I did mine last year because my driveshaft snapped and it didn't seem bad before the job, but I noticed a difference. They go bad pretty quickly. I plan on changing mine once a year or at least every other year.
I have completely rebuilt & powder coated my rear suspension and I am replacing the track so I have the chaincase completely removed and have the jackshaft and driveshaft out. I am replacing all of the jackshaft and driveshaft bearings. The driveshaft bearing was almost seized. I could get it to turn if I worked at it for a bit but it wouldn't turn very freely.
The sled will also have all 4 shocks freshly rebuilt as well and all new bushings in the front end. Should be a whole different machine with the repaired powervalves, Hacksaw track, new studs, and rebuilt suspension plus I am going to try a Dalton 52R46 helix.
The sled will also have all 4 shocks freshly rebuilt as well and all new bushings in the front end. Should be a whole different machine with the repaired powervalves, Hacksaw track, new studs, and rebuilt suspension plus I am going to try a Dalton 52R46 helix.