srxhair
New member
Thanks I will check that first. If it is the famous "rub through" does that short wire to frame or wire to wire?
srxhair
New member
I found burned wires coming out of the engine at the back between the recoil and the carbs. There are 5 wires two to one plug and three to another. They are mostly white color. I think they lead to the stator in the engine? One wire seems to have shorted out on a plastic coated metal tie holding one of the coolant lines. But did something cause the wire to heat up and melt the wire insulation and plastic or did it wear through and then short? I hope I can repair the wire and drive. How difficult is it to change the stator if needed? Maybe I can finish the season the way it is with the wires repaired. I don't need the headlight for the mountains but I don't want a $3000 helicopter ride out either.
Last edited:
snomofo
VIP Lifetime Member
srxhair said:I found burned wires coming out of the engine at the back between the recoil and the carbs. There are 5 wires two to one plug and three to another. They are mostly white color. I think they lead to the stator in the engine? One wire seems to have shorted out on a plastic coated metal tie holding one of the coolant lines. But did something cause the wire to heat up and melt the wire insulation and plastic or did it wear through and then short? I hope I can repair the wire and drive. How difficult is it to change the stator if needed? Maybe I can finish the season the way it is with the wires repaired. I don't need the headlight for the mountains but I don't want a $3000 helicopter ride out either.
As 9801 suggested, it's more than likely the voltage drop across the poor connection (high resistance) that created the heat and melted the insulation.
srxhair
New member
The connector looks good, the wire is burned about half way between the plug and where the wires enter the motor. To change the stator does the engine need to be pulled?
Mysledblows
VIP Member
I've changed stators in the sled before. It's easier with them on the bench, but not a big deal to do it in the sled.
rlbock
Member
stator removal
You can remove the Stator without taking the engine out. The biggest problem you may have is removing the three button head cap screws that hold the recoil latch on the fly wheel. The three bolts are loctited and are phillips head. I always use a impact driver to remove them and to do it with the engine in is very tough, not alot of room for the impact and the hammer
You can remove the Stator without taking the engine out. The biggest problem you may have is removing the three button head cap screws that hold the recoil latch on the fly wheel. The three bolts are loctited and are phillips head. I always use a impact driver to remove them and to do it with the engine in is very tough, not alot of room for the impact and the hammer
Devilin AblueDress!
New member
I just changed mine in a 99 srx (got replacementfromrlbock^) It really wasnt that bad. The bottom 10mm bolt on recoil was tricky, I used 1/4 drive ratchet for that bolt. the top one either use a wrench or pull bolts from brace and stick a screw driver in there to put socket on it. The 3 phillips heads he's talking about I used a #3 phillips head on a 3/8 ratchetand came out like a champ. I went to the hardware and got 3 stainless allen heads to get rid of the phillips head. DEFINATELY EASIER THAN PULLING MOTOR.
srxhair
New member
Thanks guys! Anyone have the specs and procedure for testing the stator?
srxhair
New member
I changed the stator and the sled ran great. I had checked the wires under the engine and they are fine. I had a blast riding till the primary broke. A 1/3 piece came of at 8500 rpm and hit the foot well. Lucky for me it was 50 yards from the road when it happened. We had been riding cut lines and pipe lines West of
Whitecourt all day.
Whitecourt all day.