Sanded rollers and ramps. Dry Graphite in roller and ramp bushings. Cleaned it up good. Spring height is within spec. Front cover bushing appears good. Spider and some slop in it as well as plastic sliders but it does slide up and down without binding. Anything else I should do before I put it back together? One of my weights was rubbing inside the spider so I hammered in to take the small lip down. All three weights are now at same height.
YAMMIEGOD3:16
Active member
CHECK FIXED AND MOVEABLE SHEAVES FOR CRACKS. 3:16 (yammie tony)
YAMMIEGOD3:16 said:
No cracks.
Primary? plastic sliders? Sanded rollers and ramps? Dry Graphite? Hammered on weights? Weights are now at same height? No on all......... what are you trying to do?SRX_700 said:
Whammy said:
Yes to Primary. There are 6 plastic shoes/sliders in the primary that can wear. Yamaha tecnician of nearly 30 years suggested me to sand the rollers and ramps lightly with emery paper. He also suggested to spray dry graphite on the rollers, ramps, pins and bushings. I had to compress the burr on one of the weights as it was rubbing on the inside of the spider when the clutch was closing.
I am trying to get my clutch ready.
Well,, lube of any sort is going to attract dirt, belt dust and now fine metal shavings from your sanding of components........ I would recommend getting rid of the dry lube at least........SRX_700 said:
bluebandit98
New member
i hate clutches i have been losing sleep thinkin about the damn things for 2 weeks
bluebandit98 said:
So have I.
bluewho
Active member
Sounds to me like you have better have your bud take a look.A worn out clutch will slide back and forth with no binding but under load it will go cockeyed when there is pull from the belt.The weight hitting the casting is a good indication of this.
There should not be any side to side movement of the weight............plastic washers worn
There should be no flopping around movement of the weights.......bushings worn with the pins
If the end cap bushing is worn {and are famous for}you can feal it slideing it up and down the shaft.I remove the spring and reinstall the cap plate and look for play twisting the clutch as i push it down.
.
There should not be any side to side movement of the weight............plastic washers worn
There should be no flopping around movement of the weights.......bushings worn with the pins
If the end cap bushing is worn {and are famous for}you can feal it slideing it up and down the shaft.I remove the spring and reinstall the cap plate and look for play twisting the clutch as i push it down.
.
bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
its not a perfect world..you will always have some play in them weights..but not enough to hit the sides.
i guess i must be the only one who lubes there clutch not only on my srx but all of them. i mean i dont hose it down but a lite machine oil has never hurt mine if anything u get alot more life out of this expensive component .none of you use any lube? oh well personal preference.
yamadogg said:
I haven't used any lube on my SRX but used "Polaris Clutch Lube" on my Polaris' after every ride. The weights weren't bushed so they would wear quickly along with the pins.
Made a horse-shoe bracket that would hold the clutch partially closed to allow movement of the weights/rollers. Applied the lube while twisting the pins and rollers, removed bracket then start it without the belt to sling any excess off then wipe the faces with acytone.
IMO - If I rode in the dirt/dust I'd be concerned with the lube attracting it but ain't much to worry about as evidenced by the rock catching foam on the air box. Dirt/dust being attracted wasn't an issue with my Polaris'.
If I had to guess I'd say the Polaris stuff was repackaged 3 in 1.
bluewho said:
Remove the primary spring and side load the moveable sheave. There should be nearly no wobble. Same with the cover. If you can get any wobble out of it I'd replace the bushing. Since it apart and likely never been serviced I'd replace both bushings anyhow.
My guess is once you replace the bushings and try to side load the cover and moveable you'll see how worn they were.
snomofo said:
Should I also replace the 6 sliders for good measure? I see some where on 3 of the sliders that make contact with the rails they slide up and down on.
sgauthier
Member
i would since you have it apart. i noticed that royal distributing sells the service kit for those primaries which include those 6 sliders. not sure how the quality compares to the OEM parts. a lot cheaper thou, might be worth a try if they have any in stock. 
Took it to the Yamaha dealer today to remove the sheaves to check on the bushing. He told me that I most likely will have to replace the moveable sheave as well because when bushing are removed from high mileage sleds (mine has 6,500) he told me that the new bushing will not fit in at all due to the sheave hole compressing and swelling once the bushing is removed. Is this possible?
SRX_700 said:
I've never heard of that happening.
sgauthier
Member
me neither, i replaced the bushing in my high mileage 98 srx on the spider when it had 13000KM. i had the fixed sheave replaced due to cracks but never replaced the spider at all and now has over 22000km. that is the part that is the most expensive. if it has any kind of stress cracks i would go ahead and replace both and be done with it. you can get the OEM parts rather reseasonable in the US and have them shipped right to your door for about half what you would pay at a stealership in Canada.
Both sheaves are in excellent shape and show no signs of cracks, wear or fatigue. He is going to look at the old bushing and let me know how bad it is. If the bushong is worn, I am going to tell him to take it out and replace it with a new OEM bushing. If he cannot fit the new bushing back in (for whatever his reason is) I am going to take the clutch back and have someone else press the bushing back. Worse case scenario, I can get the sheaved machined a little bit (if it does swell when he takes the old busing out) to fit the new one in. I have never heard of this either.