144" track on 2001 MM 700 ?

T

Timeon

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Joined
Dec 2, 2003
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12
Hi, I have a stock 2001 Mountain Max 700, I'm going to change the stock 141" Yokohama track (totally destroyed) to a 144" Camoplast (powder design) with rail extensions.
I wondered if I need to have a tunnel extension also since I'm worried about potential rubbing on the rear heat exchanger.

Also, will there be any need for clutching/gearing changes after the swap ? (riding in Northern Ontario)

Thx
 
I went to a 151 with my 01 MM700 needed tunnel and rail extensions, but I don't think you need a tunnel extension for a 144, just rails. You only movin 1.5 inch back. Check out MPI (Mountain Performance) or Hartman Inc for kits to make this a simple swap. I went with MPI 151 kit. The links are found on the TY home page.

If you feel pretty well setup for your type of ridin, the 141-144 swap shouldn't need any re-clutching or gearing. The stock 21-40 works OK for general purpos ridin, if you into some deep stuff and climbn I would spin 20/40 in there. Cools down the clutch's and upshifts bit quicker.
 
Thx for the reply.

One last thing, do you think a Hauck Clutch kit would be worth getting ?
How much would it improve performance ?
 
I put a 151 under my '00 last year.... I LOVE IT!!! wouldn't even consider anything shorter..
I used rail extensions, and PROBABLY should have done a tunnel ext, but I haven't had any trouble... Even the snowflap is doing okay

As far as clutching/gearing goes... I highly recommend dropping to a 20 from a 21...even with the 144.
I went to a 19, but I'm a really big guy and ride at 10K ft +

Contact Bob (Mad Max performance) He can help you with an awesome clutch setup, that doesn't cost much $$$ at all... using all Yammie stuff
His setup made me love my yammie again...

Save the $$ from the clutching stuff and get some pipes if you don't have them.

Just my $.02
 
Thx powderslut, I emailed Bob.

As for pipes, I don't want to spend alot of money on this sled. I just want it to feel like its really a 700, so clutching / gearing / jetting is pretty much all I can afford.
 
After a few few quick e-mails by Bob I decided to also do the following:

-Do Air box mod.
-Do Silencer Boring mod.
-Jetting, put 142.5, 142.5, 143.8 mains. 55 pilots. Set the needles in the middle clip, both washers on top of the clip. Set the fuel screws at 1.75 turns out.
-Clutching, run the stock primary spring, and weights. But, but a 4.5 gram ( 17.2mm steel) inner rivit in it,closest to the pivot and a 3.6 outer rivit in it. Outer meaning furthest from the pivot. ( thats a 13.9 mm steel)
-Run the stock helix in the secondary, and run the stock green spring ( green blotch on the black spring) Set it at 6 and 1 holes.
-Gear it 20-40.

I'm not sure which rivits I have in right now ( I beleive they are setup like he says ) but I know the jetting is a step leaner from stock, the pilot up from 45, and gearing down from 21-40.
What do you guys think I should expect from those changes ?
 
If your sled is stock you probly won't have the rivet combo Bob suggested. Depends on how your dealer set it up. My 01 stock setup was junk, I used same setup from Bob and it works.

If you don't have reed spacers, make sure you do it. That or the reed notches to clean up some porting issues. Really cleans up the burble in that sled. Spacers are cheap $20 or you can do the reed notches, same result.

Bob's setup will give you alot stronger pull down low and bring your revs around 8300-8400 which is optimum. Yami jetting specs are waaay safe, if you are lookin at the Yami chart, you can easily drop 1 maybe 2 sizes depending on normal temps where you ride at.

The airbox mod may not work that well for ya at your elevation. I have heard people say it only works well at higher elevations. I had the airbox mod and stock setup and it didn't do much but bark at me when I hit the throttle. It also gave me a little lean bog. I fixed the lean bog but I also did alot of other mods that made a difference that you don't have. If you get a lean bog, try a fatter air jet (.7), and 2 turns out on fuel screw should clean it up. Try it first.

L8R
 
I think Intoodeep is right on the $$$$

I can personally tell you that bob's setup KICKS SERIOUS BUTT!
My sled was set up by a dealer in Denver... To Yammie specs.
The rivits were way different, the secondary spring was different, among others...
My sled absolutely rips now! was kind of a turd before. And you won't spend much $$$ doing this.

I would still recommend pipes... but shop around, it seems there are quite a few used sets available for around 1/2 the cost of new..
(I'm shopping for some too)
I rode a MM with benders on it last year... WOW, big HP difference with just the pipes... He was running with/outrunning the 800's with his setup.
I gotta have more, but like you, I can't spend much $$... definately not $750 for new pipes.

Trust Bob's info... the man definitely knows his Yammies! Sure made mine run good.

Regards,
 
Thanks guys for all the replies.
I not worried about the track anymore.

Intoodeep, for the airbox mod you say I may get a lean bog, but won't changing the pilots from 45 to 55 fix that ? And the reed spacers, where can you have them for 20$ ?

You guys know how much hp is gained with the silencer boring mod ?
 
I just realized that since I have REVERSE installed, my gearing is 21-39 since you can't have 40 on the driven with reverse.

So 20-39 still a good choice ?
 
For reed spacers, that's what I paid CDN for spacers/gaskets/bolts. Maybe I got a screamin deal, I dunno but thats what I paid at local Yami dealer.

The lean bog...some guys got em and some guys didn't. Seems to me more guys with pipes got the bog as you are runnin more air with the pipes. You gotta run it and see. I know it sucks, changin jettin on the Yamis is the worst!!!

20/39 is better than stock. You may need a smaller chain though. I think stock chain w/o reverse is 70L, I run a 68L for my 19/40. That is the same numebr of teeth as your 20/39 so you may need a smaller chain. You will know right away when changin gears as you will have a big bend in the chain from the tensioner and will run out of tensioner bolt. This ain't good, you want to have a smooth chain transition whenever possible, big bend in chain is not efficient, and is more suseptable to break.

Good Luck
 
$20 for reed spacers is a screaming deal, spent $45 on mine. At first jetting will be a small chore, but you'll get used to it. At least it won't be as bad as the '97 were

Dan
 
Well, I am a month late on this one, but what the hell. I have a 03 MM700 that I use for work. I dropped the needles and the pilots, added reed spacers ($65 Cdn), drilled the can (apparently 6hp), duct taped the vent holes under the hood (in front of the handle bars)and installed 2" bar risers. I store the foam in the headlight when not in use and stick it in if I am in serious powder. The sled is a different animal now than what it was. It bogged out of the hole especially in deep snow or slush when I first got it. I have reverse on it so I am assuming the gearing is 21/39. Not a great top end sled, but it sure is fun going to work now!
 
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