Upgrading an 85 Phazer?

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gutteer

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I want to put on a longer track ive been told that the skid assy from an Exciter II is 121" and a direct bolt on? is that true and i plan on getting plastic skis to replace the metal ones ive sent an email out to usi skis to see if they have any anybody else have suggestions on what i could do i want to pipe it but i was told they can blow up if you do
 
gutteer said:
I want to put on a longer track ive been told that the skid assy from an Exciter II is 121" and a direct bolt on? is that true and i plan on getting plastic skis to replace the metal ones ive sent an email out to usi skis to see if they have any anybody else have suggestions on what i could do i want to pipe it but i was told they can blow up if you do
Click to expand...

http://www.totallyamaha.net/forums/showthread.php?t=79197

-An Exciter II uses the original Pro-Action (way better suspension)
- The 87-90 Exciter is a 121" Mod Pro-Link close in design to the 116" 84-89 Phazer

FYI
The following sleds had the original Pro-Action Rear Suspension.
1983 to 1991 SRV 540
1983 to 1991 Vmax 540
1991 to 1993 Exciter
1992 to 1997 Vmax 750/800 with the exception of the 97 XT models
1994-1996 Vmax 5/600 with the exception of the 96 XT models
 
ok thanks i shall look for those for parts sleds i shall return asking for tons of help as this will be a giant undertaking on my part this is my first sled and i want to keep it for a long time i am gonna need to be walked through the entire process many thanks for the info
 
Do a search here for Phazer and sit back for a few hours of reading. Anything and everything you want to know has been discussed here in the past.
 
i understand that and i have been reading but some of this stuff is beyond me and has me clueless so i am gonna need help but first i have to get the parts so thats what i am working on now

'98 Polaris XC 600 Twin Big Block would the xtra 10 out of one of these work?
 
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you can put whatever skid you want in. you'll just need to watch the front of rails from hitting the drivers if you bolt it in the same location & for the rear just make up some drop brackets.

guy i worked with put a polaris 133 skid from a touring model in his 84 phaz. made some drop brackets & put on a tunnel ext. looked sick.
 
i have some good news i do believe i am gonna get a complete Xtra-10 suspension out of a 97 xc 600
 
mock up the skid in the sled, if it can fit in the stock holes up front, then do that unless you want to drop the front mount as well. just drill a new hole for that.

i would try the stock front holes first to start out. then raise/or lower down the rear of sled to where you want it. measure between the mounting point & the bottom of the tunnel/or running board. there is where you want to put a 90 bend for strength, then go up further to mount it to the side of the tunnel. it kinda looks like a sideways T once finished. rivet or bolt to tunnel & the boards, & bolt your skid onto the brackets. then jump on the sled & see how it is.
remember the higher you get the seat away from the ground(or the more the skid sits out of the tunnel), the harder the steering will be.

my apologies if you can't make any sense of my rambling's. i know there has to be some info on the brackets being done before.
 
i kinda understand what you are saying but i am a visual guy and pictures would really really help me out here if you can do that it would be great and basicly what you are sayin is i could probably get away with not using drop brackets?
 
Measure the polaris chassis for the distance from the axle to the mounting holes then transfer those measurements to your chassis. Also measure the distance from the top of the tunnel down to get the height right.
Keep in mind, it will take more horsepower to turn a longer track. Also, a more agressive track will bog the motor down conciderably.
 
8vo fan said:
Measure the polaris chassis for the distance from the axle to the mounting holes then transfer those measurements to your chassis. Also measure the distance from the top of the tunnel down to get the height right.
Keep in mind, it will take more horsepower to turn a longer track. Also, a more agressive track will bog the motor down conciderably.
Click to expand...

im not getting the sled just the parts so i wont have access to the mesurements unless when i go to buy it i ask to get them and what do you mean measure the axel to the mounting holes? what axel i am gonna need pictures as i dont know much about sleds and am trying to learn but go easy on me
 
no you'll need drop bracket for the rear. by keeping the front suspension mount in the stock location will help with not having so much ski pressure.

all i did for my vmax's was make 7" plates. bolted the plates to the stock place on the tunnel & drilled new holes lower(on the brackets) to mount the skid too. the 90* angle piece is for more side support. i didn't do this but suggest it. total drop(or lift) was 4".

i don't have pics of mine because i sold the sleds.

i'll see if i can round anything up.
 
xt_gt said:
no you'll need drop bracket for the rear. by keeping the front suspension mount in the stock location will help with not having so much ski pressure.

all i did for my vmax's was make 7" plates. bolted the plates to the stock place on the tunnel & drilled new holes lower(on the brackets) to mount the skid too. the 90* angle piece is for more side support. i didn't do this but suggest it. total drop(or lift) was 4".

i don't have pics of mine because i sold the sleds.

i'll see if i can round anything up.
Click to expand...


that would be absoultley fantastic
 
just did a search on the net for vmax drop brackets. there is a bunch of info on basically what you want to do. pictures also. there's some 4 sale even, for $50. these should be fine.

take a look and see if you get a better idea what to do.
 
on my avitar u will c my phazer with drop brackets.. Its quite easy.. I understand where u wuold get confused.. And need pics.. If u need some pics and like how i did my brackets lend your email and i will send em.. But thats how i did mine on my 91 phazer
 
i used thick aluminum flat bars.. About nine inches in lenght.. And bolted them up.. Rounded the lower part of the brackets so it looked matching to my axle wheels it bolted up to.. But i can send u the brackets cut and molded for ya for only twenty dollars.. I fabricate my parts myself.. It really helped with the sled gettin buried in the pouder
 
You dont need a new skid to put a longer track on. With 1/4 in aluminum flat bar you can just extend your skid and move your rear idler wheels back to fit a 133" or 136" track can go as much as 1 1/2" in lug without changing drivers. I currently have a 136 x1" lug and it does great in powder (even really deep Idaho powder) and really hooks up on trails. You could mess with gearing and cluching to get better performance but mine is stock and does great. Although a new skid would be a much smoother ride than the whopping 6" of rear travel in the stock skid.
 
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