my dad and i are trying to winterize the SRX soon, and we put seafoam in the tank, and are wondering how to shut off the gas. can anyone help?
winterizing SRX 700
- Thread starter Constip8r
- Start date
bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
CHECK IN FRONT OF THE GAS TANK NEAR THE GAS LINE..SHOULD BE A SHUT OFF THERE..mY 2002 srx HAS A SHUT OFF..DON'T KNOW ABOUT THE 2001'S
I dont think any of them came with a shut off valve. I know my 2000 dont and my 99 didnt.
bluemonster1 said:
again??
thanks for the replys, so what sould my dad and i do besides the seafoam in the gas tank?
fog the engine, lift the sled up so there is no weight on the suspension front and rear, clean the powervalves and carbs, grease all the grease points and cover all metal components with a coat of wd-40. I think I got it all somebody chime in if I forgot somethingConstip8r said:
oh and take the handlebar pad off and also throw a bunch of dryer sheets under the hood to help prevent mice damage
bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
mine had the shut off valve in it.Netefrog said:
I am special I guess...lol 
bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
no easter bunny FOR YOU stein>>>> 
Constip8r said:
I would guess that you want to "Summerize" the sled. For "Winterizing" I would clean the carbs , go thru the skid and clutches, power valves, chaincase, fresh gas and ride.
bluewho
Active member
Price of belts these days it would help to remove them and spray the clutches down as well as takeing some tenshion off the track adjusters.
Constip8r said:
I and others (including Yamaha) would recommend draining the fuel. You sure don't want to use the stored fuel for the first ride next season and with the tank drained and engine fogged, you won't be tempted to cause damage by starting it over the summer.
Syphon the tank into your car/truck and run it 'til it dies.
I did a large write up on this several years ago and i think yamahalic or some one posted it in the tech section.....do a search and see what you can find..... but one of my biggest pet peves is you have to get all the fuel out --- it turns to junk in a short time.... warn up the sled---get the fuel out then the sled will run on the fogging oil to get the last drops out of the lines...then you still need to drain the float bowls....ect................
Tod
Tod
Tod said:
I run the sled to get it good and warm after washing/cleaning/waxing and spraying everything externally with spray silicone and then syphon the tank.
I then remove the air box and run the sled long enough to drain the f/pump and float bowls of fuel. As the fuel is being consumed you'll notice hesitation/bogging when you're near emptying the float bowls. Adding some choke at this point will help suck the bowls dry and keep it running. I then put the fogging oil to the carbs alternating between all three while also cycling the throttle to keep it running. Lastly I spray heavily using the fogging oil to stall it.
Carbs/tank drained and engine fogged in one step.
rx1jim
New member
Here is what I do to prep the sleds for storage:
1. Give the sled a good overall washing, waxing and inspection. Often i have found potential problems during the process of detailing the sled.
2. Run the engine while the sled is on the sled stand, get the engine and engine compartment good and warm.
3. Remove the airbox, diassemble it and wash all the gas and oil residue out of it.
4. Fog the engine using one can of fog spray in each carb inlet. Fog it until the engine quits.
5. Fill the oil tank to the top.
6. Siphon all of the gas out of the tank. There is no need to keep the tank full during the storage period.
7. Remove the carbs, thoroughly clean them making sure EVERY jet and passge is wide open and residue free. Coat the inside of the float bowls with fogging oil. Reinstall the carbs. Reinstall the airbox
8. Drain the chaincase oil, remove the chaincase cover and wash out the chaincase with a light oil such as WD-40. Draining the chaincase does not remove the accumulated sludge, only removing the cover and washing it removes the sludge. Remove the chain and scheck it for stretch and broken links. The gasket on the chaincase can be reused many times. Reassemble the chaincase and fill it with fluid. I use the synthetic Amsoil chaincase lube.
9. Lubricate every grease fitting with a grease gun loaded with a synthetic grease. Force out all the trapped water.
10. Remove the skis from the spindles, remove the bushing. Clean out the old grease and trapped water, grease and reassemble.
11. Plug the exhaust opening to prevent mice from nesting inside.
12. Release the tension from the track
13. Remove the jackshaft bearing, pop out the seal, clean out the old grease and trapped water. Lube with a synthetic grease and reassemble.
14. Remove the drive axle bearing from under the speedometer drive cover, pop off the seal. Clean out the old grease and trapped water, relube and reassemble.
15. Remove the bearings from all bogie wheels, remove the seals and clean out the old grease and water. Relube with synthetic grease and reassemble.
16. Remove the drive belt and the spare drive belt
17. Spray the engine compartment and rear suspension with WD-40
Every two years:
1. drain, and refill the engine coolant
2. drain and refill the brake system with fresh DOT 4 fluid.
1. Give the sled a good overall washing, waxing and inspection. Often i have found potential problems during the process of detailing the sled.
2. Run the engine while the sled is on the sled stand, get the engine and engine compartment good and warm.
3. Remove the airbox, diassemble it and wash all the gas and oil residue out of it.
4. Fog the engine using one can of fog spray in each carb inlet. Fog it until the engine quits.
5. Fill the oil tank to the top.
6. Siphon all of the gas out of the tank. There is no need to keep the tank full during the storage period.
7. Remove the carbs, thoroughly clean them making sure EVERY jet and passge is wide open and residue free. Coat the inside of the float bowls with fogging oil. Reinstall the carbs. Reinstall the airbox
8. Drain the chaincase oil, remove the chaincase cover and wash out the chaincase with a light oil such as WD-40. Draining the chaincase does not remove the accumulated sludge, only removing the cover and washing it removes the sludge. Remove the chain and scheck it for stretch and broken links. The gasket on the chaincase can be reused many times. Reassemble the chaincase and fill it with fluid. I use the synthetic Amsoil chaincase lube.
9. Lubricate every grease fitting with a grease gun loaded with a synthetic grease. Force out all the trapped water.
10. Remove the skis from the spindles, remove the bushing. Clean out the old grease and trapped water, grease and reassemble.
11. Plug the exhaust opening to prevent mice from nesting inside.
12. Release the tension from the track
13. Remove the jackshaft bearing, pop out the seal, clean out the old grease and trapped water. Lube with a synthetic grease and reassemble.
14. Remove the drive axle bearing from under the speedometer drive cover, pop off the seal. Clean out the old grease and trapped water, relube and reassemble.
15. Remove the bearings from all bogie wheels, remove the seals and clean out the old grease and water. Relube with synthetic grease and reassemble.
16. Remove the drive belt and the spare drive belt
17. Spray the engine compartment and rear suspension with WD-40
Every two years:
1. drain, and refill the engine coolant
2. drain and refill the brake system with fresh DOT 4 fluid.
bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
another thing to do is take the primary and secondary off,clean shaft good and grease jackshaft spindle end.Take the springs out of the clutches so they don't stay compressed all summer..coat the faces with light oil to prevent any corrosion and at this time you can decide if the clutch's need new parts..ie)bushings,buttons,roller/bushings..etc...oh yeah>check for cracks at the same time.
