Ski lift

bluebullet

bluebullet

New member
Joined
Jan 28, 2004
Messages
558
Age
65
Location
Augusta, Maine
All, Put the 1.25" ripsaw on this summer and that track is night and day from the stocker! My problem is my ski lift has to be adjusted to get more ski pressure. I am running stock transfer rods, 6" carbides in front and I am not picked. I have Maxx Perf long travel rear upgrade in rear. The sled pulls the ski's about 6" off the ground on take off and in and out of the corners on hard pack conditions. I like the track and the launch it gives but need to get the ski's down into the corner's. Should I compress the front springs (ski's), limiter straps, rear shocks ?
 
I have almost the same problem but my sled is totally stock.(now I know why a dealer said to me that the new transfer yamaha put in place is almost to much)
My straps are really pulled up almost 30mm.
Looks like I'll have to work on the (Ohlins)front spring rate.
 
When you go to a longer travel rear skid, and leave the front end short, you automatically have a handling disadvantage. It will no longer carve like it did when stock.

What you can do, other than what Mr.Sled advises (which is right on) is to tune more sit in into your rear skid. I know, it's a pain. But if you can get that rear bumper a little lower, the the handling should come back. If it's just straightline ski lifting you're worried about, then MrSled's suggestions are all you need, but if you want to carve up some trails too...then dig a little deeper. Sit in lowers your CG, and will cover up the difference in your front and rear suspensions. You'l still have the nice ride though. Good luck!
 
All, Yes, thats what I want, slot car cornering like it had! I have run the long travel rear since I owned the sled and the only change this year was the ripsaw. The extra lug highth must be the difference. I am going to tighten the limiter 1st and start there! I really like the hole shot with that track! Drag racing in the past I almost always was playing ketch up, no more!!!! My buddies 600MXZ used to spank me out of the hole and than I would ketch him, Last week I just straight up walked away! Thanks for the advice!
 
i would do like sled said , tighten the staps down but not to much your just taking away travel when you do that , take the straps down about half or 3/4 then let some of the preload off your center shock, but first you need to have your rider height correct in the rear , if when you sit on your sled and the gaps in your transfer rods are 50% on top and 50% on bottom your ok , then start with the straps and center shocks , go about 3/4 on the staps then take it for a spin ,see how it acts , then start letting the center shock out, go alittle bit at a time , you will get it close , when you get it close , then try to add alittle preload to the front shocks ,you should get it back to were you want to be , it may take some time , but well worth having your set up right ......remember preload only effects height and how fast it rebounds not the ride of the shock (i.e. by increaseing or decreasing preload your not makeing the shock harder or softer )when you have done all this and it still is lifting when your on the gas , take some of the transfer out of it , you only need transfer if you racing you dont want alot in the twisties ....good luck ..
 
i just long traveld my 2000 with viper shocks

dialed in the gaps to be equal.

i had the rear shock sra(or whatever it is called) set to the lower ( stiffer, longer leverage ) position.

rode the first time with this mod and loved the improvement in bumps!!!

but i could NOT keep the inside ski down in any turn.....
what have i done i thought.......

I brought my tools as i expected to be tweeking..
I move the rear shock front mount (sra or whatever) position to the upper (least lever arm) positon...
rides awesomein bumps... no bottoming out.. and the thing corners on rails again like the old stock setup........what a difference the set in made by lowering the center of gravity and in my opinion, using those supposedly stiff viper shocks better with the less leverage position. ( i.e. making the shocks work more through more travel in bumps)

easy trial on the trail with 14mm wrenches and a buddy willing to pick the back end up... ;)!

just my observations...

ramb
 
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