98 VMAX with Blown Cylinder: How to preserve engine until August

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spwild47

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Hi,

I have 98 Vmax with a blown cylinder.

The mechanic pulled the head gasket and the jug on the mag side.

The cylinder jug needs replating and I need a new piston, but won't have the $$$ until August.

I want to try to "summerize" this sled as well as possible...

Since I can see the pistons..I just fogged the cylinders and pulled it over a few times to move the fogging oil around.

My questions are :
(1) I put Seafoam in the gas tank but since I can't start it...is there any way to get that in the system?

(2) Should I put the head and cylinder back on, just to help keep the oil from drying out and the condensation from forming?

THANKS!
 
Is it inside? If so I would just spray everything down with WD 40 or something and cover it with a rag or something. Probably be best to just drain the gas and use it in your car or something. If not just put seafoam or stabil in it and hope for the best. You can clean the carbs when you rebuilt the motor. You should anyway.
 
The sled is inside. So the fogging oil is for internal rust and the stabil to prevent the carbs from getting dirty?
 
Right, foggin oil to protect the motor and stabil keeps the gas from going bad and turning into varnish. There's really no way to get the stabil into the carbs unless it's running that I know of. And with fuel the way it is nowdays most of us have started cleaning our carbs every year anyway even with stabil or seafoam in the tank.
 
It is a must on these sleds to clean the carbs every year. Just asked the same sort of question. Spray to the crank and pistons the best you can with fogging oil. The carbs will need a cleaning no matter what so just drain what gas you can. I use it in my mower through the summer. Take reeds or exhaust off to get to crank ports for real good fogging. Either way its comming apart, now or fall. Do it right now. CCC
 
That reminds me..the guy that tore it half down took the pipe off...so can I just spray back in from the front of the sled to get to the crank ports?

Also..how much fogging oil do you use doing it this way? Some guy I read used a can for each cylinder?
 
IMHO... drain the gas, don't bother trying to store it, I drain my gas in my sled and pour it into my car or Jeep. One can of fogging oil should do it. I pulled my motor apart last year at the end of the season, I sprayed it full of fogging oil and left it til Sept and it looked just fine, when I went to work on it.
 
It is an absolute waste of time and money to try to store the gas for use next season. It is also dangerous for the engine to use the stored gas next season. Even with Stabil, the quality of the gas in a couple of months will be terrible and you are risking severe detonation if you use the stored gas even if mixed with fresh 93 octane. Siphon it out and use it in another vehicle. There is NO reason to keep any gas in the tank, it is plastic. People with older motorcylles and cars need to keep the gas tanks full since the inside of the gas tanks are bare steel, they rust like crazy if they are stored empty or partially full. Drain the tank, drain the carbs. I would clean the carbs now and coat the inside of the carbs with fogging oil to prevent corrosion. Pay close attention to every small jet opening and passge way, you need to make sure they are clean and open. Proper carb cleaning is much more than taking off the float bowl and spraying a bit of carb cleaner. The gas today leaves plenty of difficult to dissolve residues. Check the rubber tips on the needle valves and the rubber orings which seal the brass needle seat to the carb body. the ethanol in todays gas damages these rubber components over time. I saw a lot of bad rubber tips and o-rings last season. Regarding the volume of fogging oil, you hear some people say they use 3 cans of fogging oil, one per cylinder. 3 cans are used spraying one can per carb to fog all cylinders at the same time. You do not use the full can of oil per cylinder, just enough to cause dthe engine to quit. In your case, remove the rubber carb mounts, remove the reed cages and spray the fogging oil onto the crank and connecting rod. Put the carb mounts and reeds back on the engine them plug the carb openings with large rubber plugs. Do the same on the exhaust side. The idea is to seal the engine from the high summer humidity.

Also, Seafoam engine treatment will do nothing to stabilizes the gas!!! I use Stabil in the gas in my sleds in between trips and drian the tanks as part of my storage routine.
 
X2 on every one elses recomended ideas on fuel. What I would like to add is, Did we figure out what cause problem to begin with? Also I highly recomend pulling the motor the rest of the way apart. Mainly because any debris from piston failure or cylinder failure could quite possibly and probably are in the bottom end as we speak. For the hassle of priming oil pump and alignment of motor and a little bit of $ on yamabond and crankcase seals you will know that you are good to go. If there is crap in the bottom end you will be back to square one sooner than later. Just my .02!
 
The Devilin is 100 % correct!!!! For the small extra cost of teh crankcase seals and YamaBind and the extra time, it is cheap insurance to do the job properly. Completely disassemble the engine, inspect the crankacse for damage and debris, wash the crankshaft with a solvent to remove all debris. preferably have someone who is knowledgeable on Yamaha engines to inspect the crankshaft. It would certainly be very discouraging (and expensive) to replace the top end parts only to have some debris in teh case cause more problems. If you are concerned about getting in "too deep", the terrific members of this site will guide you throughthe process. These engines are actually pretty simple to work on.
 
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