How do I tune my Pro-Action??

I bought a pro action suspension from a 2001 vmax 700 and am mounting it in my 91 exicter.

Based on the video and dimensions from a stock vmax i made mounting plates and bolted it on.

Now the suspension is binding. the rear sliding rod bottoms out and *slams* as if the rear shock isnt compressing. Im going to make a video to explain, maybe someone will be able to decipher what i need to tweak to get the suspension to move freely
 
krisdecker said:
I bought a pro action suspension from a 2001 vmax 700 and am mounting it in my 91 exicter.

Based on the video and dimensions from a stock vmax i made mounting plates and bolted it on.

Now the suspension is binding. the rear sliding rod bottoms out and *slams* as if the rear shock isnt compressing. Im going to make a video to explain, maybe someone will be able to decipher what i need to tweak to get the suspension to move freely
Click to expand...


You sure you have the Center to Center Correct?? Is the back arm near the rails kicked back or forward... take some pics too.
 
try reading from below. Height/angle of front of sled will change slide block settings. once front is set, the rear needs adjusting. This skid can be adjusted to work in most anything as long as you start in the correct order. If you need any help after reading the article below, just post questions or pictures on the thread and give me a pm to remind me to take a look. That way everyone shares in the problem and fix.

Good luck.

Scott
 
BETHEVIPER said:
try reading from below. Height/angle of front of sled will change slide block settings. once front is set, the rear needs adjusting. This skid can be adjusted to work in most anything as long as you start in the correct order. If you need any help after reading the article below, just post questions or pictures on the thread and give me a pm to remind me to take a look. That way everyone shares in the problem and fix.

Good luck.

Scott
Click to expand...


Not to hijack the thread... but your Pic of your little girl is so cute... love the vintage TY hat.. ;)!
 
on a long travel skid, 14-16mm total gap

Thanks Tom, it is too bad yamaha had you change the logo, I liked the old one better, still have two hats with it. The cuty is Cooper, last model built of the White Chics. Four total models, each a little cuter than the previous, at least that is what we tell the others. Now we at the factory will sit back and wait a while for the older model versions, Franki, Livy, and Snow to start building their own versions.
 
I watched the entire video but the spec's for bolt torque and thread gapes are different for each sled in the series for those years. I was wondering if there is a detailed document specifically that covers what I need to verify on my Venture 600 which is a long track and the first year for this suspension.
 
I have a general spec book for the vmax/venture line and it shows no gaps. I know any of the model specific books I have, viper, and srx have spacific gaps listed. If you can find the specific manual at the dealer, you might find them. I have found with two up sleds, the standard gap works, 14-16mm but I will set the sleds up for spring tension on the low setting on the fra, then when you want to ride double, you can just switch to the high setting, your gaps will still bottom out when riding double but you will have the better of both worlds. If your going to ride double all the time, I would set the sled up with two people setting on it full weight, with fra in the high setting. This will give you the best valving and best gap settings for ride and handling but not when your riding alone, even if you bring the fra back to low.
I wouldn't get too worried about having an exact gap. Unless your skid has been rebuilt and tightened up, all the extra slack in all those bushing start adding to the gap.
 
I removed my old steel skis two years ago and I know there is a lot of weight on them. I have good nylon skis with dual runners and I no longer do lane changes out of the blue on the trails. I used to be quite scary before. The straps at the front can be let out to take some pressure off but I am not sure if too much or too little thread on the bolts ends as they show in the video needs to be a concern.
 
Just let them out a half inch at a time till you feel like you are starting to push in the corners. You can have just a few threads showing and they will be fine. I would leave at least a quarter inch of threads sticking out min if you even get that far.
 
sxr70001 said:
Just let them out a half inch at a time till you feel like you are starting to push in the corners. You can have just a few threads showing and they will be fine. I would leave at least a quarter inch of threads sticking out min if you even get that far.
Click to expand...

Ok, Thanks I plan to release some pressure now even though there is no snow and address the rest later. I never new about that rear floating section on the pro action which should have space on both side with a rider on it. I'll have to look at that as well and achieve that as well.
 
I was just talking to the guy that rebuilt my shocks the other day and he recommended leaving the limiters all the way out and using the front shock preload to adjust for ski pressure. Mind you we were discussing ways to make my sled ride nicer on rough trails. His reasoning was, the more you pull down your adjusters the more travel you are removing from your suspension.

What do you suspension experts think about this advice?
 
sxr70001 said:
I was just talking to the guy that rebuilt my shocks the other day and he recommended leaving the limiters all the way out and using the front shock preload to adjust for ski pressure. Mind you we were discussing ways to make my sled ride nicer on rough trails. His reasoning was, the more you pull down your adjusters the more travel you are removing from your suspension.

What do you suspension experts think about this advice?
Click to expand...


I agree to a certain extent, pulling the limiter strap will take away from the drop out of the skid and you will loose travel. You can adjust shock preload and do the same thing with ski pressure... less spring will allow the skid to sit in but at some point it may not be enough, therefor you adjust your limiter.
 
sxr70001 said:
I was just talking to the guy that rebuilt my shocks the other day and he recommended leaving the limiters all the way out and using the front shock preload to adjust for ski pressure. Mind you we were discussing ways to make my sled ride nicer on rough trails. His reasoning was, the more you pull down your adjusters the more travel you are removing from your suspension.

What do you suspension experts think about this advice?
Click to expand...

Well I also believe it will give me better traction since the front part of the track will be down more and bitting in more. I wondered why in reverse if on not on very well pack snow I just dig a hole and sink in where a friend with a Cat can go for ride in reverse on a bush trail and not get stuck.
 
MrSled said:
I agree to a certain extent, pulling the limiter strap will take away from the drop out of the skid and you will loose travel. You can adjust shock preload and do the same thing with ski pressure... less spring will allow the skid to sit in but at some point it may not be enough, therefor you adjust your limiter.
Click to expand...


Thanks MrSled that makes a lot of sense. So if I can't get enough ski pressure with the middle shock then go to the adjusters? Cool, it's all coming together now.
 
My limiter straps were pulled in a long way. Well over and inch of stud sticking out. I released them leaving about a 1/4". The straps did not tighten up even with lifting the front to allow the front to extend out. I did move up a bit I cranked the front spring to the 2nd notch from the last max position. This should give it more action at the front up and down but riding will be the test later on. I am antisipating a smoother ride and better manners.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.


Back
Top