Starting Vipers in the Summer...

akrievins

akrievins

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I know I'm going to get blasted for posting this, but I've decided I'm going to try starting my Viper up once a month or so to keep the carbs filled up with fresh gas, and everything lubricated.

Reason: At the beginning of every winter, my sled needs gas down the jugs 4 or 5 times before it will stay running. This is a PITA, and can't be very good for the seld.

What I will do is run premium, stabilized gas in my sled. I'll add a few litres of fresh stabilized gas every few months. When I warm up the sled I'll bring it up to operating tempature, just before the overheat light comes on. Even spin the track a few times.

Benefits:
My sled will start much easier at the beginning of the season
No stale gas left in the carbs all summer long
Oil gets to the engine
Blet and track don't stay in one place all summer long

Okay... let's hear it. I'm ready!!! :D
 

Do as you wish. It's your sled...Obviously you already know what we're going to say to you if you're ready for it, so there is no need for anybody to say anything.
 
P.S. if your crank bearings don't rust and fail on ya from all that condinsation that your gonna build up in the case from you inproper storage procedure a bunch of us Ontario guys should get together and do some riding next winter...
 
Netefrog said:
Do as you wish. It's your sled...Obviously you already know what we're going to say to you if you're ready for it, so there is no need for anybody to say anything.
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Yup! But on another note i got yamaha buddies that do this or no summer prep at all and their sleds are problem free all winter. I just think luck of the draw and i want to keep luck on my side so a good summer prep for me every year with a good carb clean and fresh gas in the fall.
 
Forgot to mention the same thing that Super1c said...
I've heard of lots of people that have done little to no work storing their sleds, and have been doing it the same way for dozens of years without a problem. I hear lots of comments about burnt down sleds. Old gas in the carbs etc, so this would avoid that.

Netfrog, won't operating temperature burn off all the condenstation?

I just spent an hour going though Super1c's overhaul of that viper for his daughter. Incredible work. I was happy that I was able to clean and adjust my power valves. I've studded the track myslef, and replaced a bogey wheel bearing. Haven't attempted the carbs as it looks pretty intense. I wouldn't know where to start with 90% of the stuff you did with that sled. Good on you and your daughter.

I'd do all of this stuff if someone was to show me how, and where to start, but I'm not a sled mechanic! :S
 
the biggest problem with your procedure is the lack of fogging oil on the crankshaft and seals between starts. running the machine "untill the temp light comes on" won't evaporate the condensation in the engine.

why not just store it properly? and service it properly in the fall? carbs are an hour job, and should be gone through yearly anyway.
 
I wish you lived close i would be happy to help. But proper storage and cleaning is the best way to go. At the very least treat your gas, then run it for a bit to circulate the treated gas. Then just take off the top of the air box and while running spray fogging oil into the box the best ya can till it smokes like mad then kill it. Drain the rest of the gas and use it for the mower. Even just treating the gas and leaving it is better than starting it once a month. Carbs are easy, plenty of help here with lots of pics. You can even call me for help if needed and ill talk ya through it just PM me. We all just want to see you do it right thats all. These sleds will last forever with a little TLC.
 
fog your engine - drain and clean your carbs

for me this is a much better approach for trouble free engines
 
I always stabilize the gas, but I guess I'll have to learn how to tear into those carbs!
This site will help... I might tap into your expertise as well super1c!
 
Draining carbs minimizes the potential for crud to accumulate after fuel evaporation. Running Sea Foam or Ring Free with clean carbs helps keep the whole fuel system clean. Stuff is still there it just helps keep it broken down so it flows all the way through.

Unless you are in a very dry environment, running the engine in warmer temps introduces moisture into the engine. Fogging or increasing the oil mixture evry time can help dispel the moisture and deter rust. However, seems like a lot of bother when all you have to do is drain, fog, and store.

Cleaning carbs in the pre-season is an insurance that all is still clean. Always using clean fuel, adding Sea Foam or Ring Free on a consistent basis, and not allowing fuel to age generally results in clean carbs so the cleaning process is just a precaution that wards off fuel starvation burn-downs caused by dirty or clogged fuel passages.
 
I never summerize my viper. Just stabilizer and run it once a month and it's been good. Over 14,000kms on it too.
 
same here once a month till warm 14.000 miles no problems allways carb problems when stablized fogged and parked to each there own never want a dry carb on anything i own been doing the same thing with my 1976 yzx125 and it still runs like new
 
See, those are some of the other stories I've heard. I only have 8000kms on my Viper.
I think I will try to get at the carbs this summer though. Might as well try it. If I screw it up, I've always got TY, and a marina that services sleds is not far away!
 
Correct me if I'm wrong , but wouldn't running the engine lubricate everything as well as fogging since that's how a 2 strokes get lubed anyway. I mean, as long as it's run frequently that sould keep the carbs clear and everything lubed and if it's brought up to temp it should not have any problems with condensation. I do agree though there is obviously a problem with your hard starting after the off season that should be tracked down and rectified.
Just my 2 cents GIL
 
You guys do as you wish, as i said, they're your sleds. As for me, I'll keep on stabilizing the gas and fogging the engine.
 
akrievins said:
hmm, this might explain why if I hammer the gas from idle, the Viper stalls!
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Aside from Yamaha's recomendation according to my owner's guide to fog vs. starting periodically, the fuel that's stored over the summer might not be what it was when you pumped it in. Given Viper's propensity to detonation, at the very least I'd drain and fill with fresh fuel before the first ride.

I've heard the same success stories (my buddy's storage procedure for the past ten years for his Yamaha 40hp outboard is to turn off the key), but IMO the odds are against you... especially with E10.
 
Ok, my opinion from decades of multiple two cycle storage. I do nothing....except the first start after storage I put triple the recommended amount of STA-BIL in the gas tank and try to run it dry. Then fill up and go. ZERO rust and explode issues in decades and NEVER a first time start carb clean (STA-BIL actually dissolves the varnish like material).

Draining a carb is a death knell to gaskets that sit dry, think about it.

WORST possible storage is in a closed trailer or air tight barn or storage unit. For some reason that rusts the crank like REALLY quick when it is hot.

Your mileage may vary, but this has always worked for me.
 
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