snomofo
VIP Lifetime Member
stingray719 said:Ok, my opinion from decades of multiple two cycle storage. I do nothing....except the first start after storage I put triple the recommended amount of STA-BIL in the gas tank and try to run it dry. Then fill up and go. ZERO rust and explode issues in decades and NEVER a first time start carb clean (STA-BIL actually dissolves the varnish like material).
Draining a carb is a death knell to gaskets that sit dry, think about it.
WORST possible storage is in a closed trailer or air tight barn or storage unit. For some reason that rusts the crank like REALLY quick when it is hot.
Your mileage may vary, but this has always worked for me.
I too had success with your procedure years ago before E10 - without Stabil.
...and I still hear success stories (as is the case with my buddy's outboard) but with E10 or higher ethanol content things ain't the same.
I've not seen issues with dry carb gaskets. Leather pump plungers or cork that isn't treated prior to assembly in an automotive application perhaps ( I use Pam cooking spray on Holley cork float bowl gaskets at the race track to allow for numerous jet changes) but with Yamaha's pre-mix stratigy any rubber inside is coated/treated. I would run dry my old round slides with pre-mix for this reason but IMO it isn't necassary on my SRX.
My '01 SRX owner's guide suggests the use of Stabil or draining for storage but it also came with a suppliment/update one pager regarding storage that suggests draining only. This coincided with the introduction of E10 in high octane fuels here in Michigan.
Storing with or without fuel isn't as important as using fresh, in season fuel for the first ride.
Agreed that enclosed trailer storage or wrapping the sled in a plastic tarp can reak havoc on not only engine internals but also drive/skid bearings and other steel components. Gotta let 'er breath.
JMO
kill the engine with TRANSMISSION FLUID, Spray the whole engine compartment with CRC silicone and let her sit for a LONG TIME.
sasksrx
VIP Member
Netefrog said:P.S. if your crank bearings don't rust and fail on ya from all that condinsation that your gonna build up in the case from you inproper storage procedure a bunch of us Ontario guys should get together and do some riding next winter...
I find this condensation theory hard to believe. If this was the case you would never be able to keep a bottom end in any 2 stroke motorcycle.
I drain my sled in the spring, add about 1 quart of fresh premium once a month and start her up. I rotate the track a few times and warm it up good and shut her down. I started doing this a few years ago after I melted a piston. I used to always fog my sled then pull the carbs at the start of the season and clean them. But that year I think I still plugged a jet because on the second tank of gas of the year she went boom. Ever since I changed over to doing this I've never had a problem and when I pull the float bowls I don't have any tarnish in them.
akrievins
New member
Started the Viper up this past weekend. Started right up after about 5 pulls. Running very well. Let it get nice and hot, and then shut it down using a lot of choke. I also keep adding a liter or so of fresh premium that I've stabilized as well about once a month.
I have decided I will try my hand at cleaning the carbs, and will most likely do this in September when I'm off for a few days at the cottage.
I'll be sure to document this. I might be using my blackberry to post questions on here as I go!
I have decided I will try my hand at cleaning the carbs, and will most likely do this in September when I'm off for a few days at the cottage.
I'll be sure to document this. I might be using my blackberry to post questions on here as I go!