stud size

modsrx said:
does stud signature series 1,175 fits under a srx ??1.075 is pretty low :wel:
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Do you have a 1.075 stud on you to look at?

The way bender explained to me when I bought studs is that stud length and lug height are both measured differently.

I have a 1.25 rip saw on my nytro and bender sent me 1.35 studs. I was very surprised to see that there was plenty of stud past the track lugs.
 
The best way is to look at the OAL of the stud and measure YOUR track, measure from inside to the top of the lug (including the belt thickness) and compare the two sizes. You want about 1/4" sticking above the lug (No more than 3/8") You need to compare the oal to the total track height because you are going to draw the studs flush as possible with the inside of the track. I found my 1" hacksaw was actually 1 1/16" total including the thickness of the track. The lugs were actually only a hair over 7/8". Do your homework and save your heatexchanger. Besides too long and you'll bend 200 bucks worth of studs anyway! Talk to Bruce at PB Performance he has great prices on studs and will probably send you a single in a couple sizes as long as you buy your studs from him. You can send back the size you don't end up using. Gil
 
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I ran the signature series stainless steel 0175 on a prediter track for 4 or 5 seasons on a srx.Worth the extra money i think .

We do alot of sideroads and road crossing so its hard on them.Did not spit out the tip like other brands do, and the pick would wear around the carbide insert first.

They lasted along time because i remember the cracked plastic washers haveing to be replaced with square washers.
before the picks were done.

The height of the rubber were some people clip them is important for long picks as it does change from one style to another and rubs on the protecters when the track is loose.Press the track with the picks in it against the tunnel protecters under the tank and check fo clearance!If they hit the tunnel you will have to use higher protecters and the widest ones you can find.A plastic strip can be added to the front and rear protecers if needed for inshurance for when the track streches from hard launches.





,
 
I meant Rich at CB performance. Site sponsor. He's a heck of a guy they carry both Woody's and Studboy. I went studboy cause they are a local company. (Only about 8 milles from here) and I talked to them on the phone multiple times and they were very helpful. Do yourself a favor buy the right size studs in the first place for 3 reasons. 1) you won't wreck anything 2) You won't have to change studs or modify your sled because of a clearence issue( there won't be one) and 3) once the studs are installed most likely you can't return them. Gil
 
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i got some 1.075 studd right now .....and the studd only stick 1/4 inch above the track and sounds to me that is not enough ?????
 
1/4 to 3/8" is normal ( studs that are too long won't give you anymore tractions, they'll just bend or pull through your track) and is this stud tightened down or did you just stick it through the hole in the track, because it will come up nearly the thickness of the head when you tighten it down flush which is about another 1/8". Tighten it down and run it around and check clearance at the front exchanger and tunnel. Do that in several different holes or positions on the track. It might seem a little picky but by the time you figure a couple hundred bucks for studs and four to five hundred for a track not to mention your exchangers and the labor you do to install everything, it's worth making sure everything is okay. You don't want to be out about $800 plus and be doing it all over agian in like January when you should be enjoying your sled.
Gil
 
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well it running right now with 1.075 for a year and not mutch more than 1/4 inch above the track and alots of clearance for the heat exchanger but it doesnt hook like hell :-((( i will just add some and see ....running 120 right now and on ice it doesnt bite at all ..better than nothing but doesnt really bite good
 
The older the track gets the more beat down the lugs will become, yet the stud length remains unchanged so the gap between the tip of each stud and each lug will increase, improving your traction.
 
yes mod..do a burn out...rip the track right off the sled right into the guy behind you..hope it is not a yamaha behind you..maybe a CAT(meow)..Go with 144 1.075.I found 120 on the ice was still spinning out to much.When I had 144 when I bought the sled..it shot off like a bullet,front end was always pointing to the sky..but had no steering..hey it sure felt cool catwalking all the way..
 
When I talked to Studboy they highly recommended 144 studs for the hp's our sleds put out. As they put it to me, their trail studs are designed for a penetration of 1/4 to 3/8" on ice, any taller won't get you more penetration it will just bend or it will lever your lug from contact with the ice and you will lose the traction from the friction between the lug and ice. The only way to get more penetration is to go with a different design. It made sense to me. I think you'll find 144 studs of the right size will work better. Gil
 
Mod,

Take a look at the studs I put in my FX Nytro with a 1.25 track.

These studs a 1.35 in length and go plenty past the lug. This is the pattern for 144 down the middle.

The same pattern of 1.075 for a 1 inch lug will yield you plenty of traction.
 

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I used 144 1.075 mega bites on my 1 inch camo. works great, although if you want total hook up on Ice you could put a million trail studs in, and it will still spin the track, for hard ice/drags you have to use pics, not trail studs.
 
General rule of thumb is 1 stud per hp, 144 studs would be about right for the SRX. This obviously varies depending on what you want it to perform well in.
 
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