SRX rebuild, NEED HELP!!

88 yamaha 570

88 yamaha 570

New member
Joined
Jan 3, 2010
Messages
343
Age
32
Location
Bridgeport, NY
hello, i have just recently bought a srx 700 with no papers off my friend for 200 dollars, here is the story... http://www.totallyamaha.net/forums/showthread.php?t=82581
before anyone says stuff like have a pro build it, i just want to let you know i am very mechanically inclined and have rebuilt sleds before, but nothing this far or this kind, ive only rebuild top ends of like 500 twins XD

now i have decided to pull the motor and crack the base to see what it looks like inside, i just need a clutch puller to get it out and im just wondering what stuff i might need to replace, here are a bunch of pictures of the motor and its condition, i will also need some specialty tools if you could get me a price on them or if anyone has some i can pay shipping for and borrow...

i plan to clean up the jugs and have them measured to see what the spec is on them, if anyone here can do that and help me out... im buying all new pistons and gaskets, for a total of like 300 dollars, comes with all gaskets and crank seals, pistons, rings, clips, and the bearings for the piston... cleaning the carbs, and maybe a new primary clutch? it seems to have ridges at the bottom of it

this is how it sat for a few years indoors... minor surface rust on rods, do you think this will be ok to reuse?
SDC12194.jpg


this is a picture of all 3 intake boots, does it matter that one is a different color? also there is a hose that looks like it has a screw in it... does it look like it is supposed to go somewhere? there wasn't a spot for it on the carbs
SDC12199.jpg


here are the three cylinders, do these look ok? the last picture is the picture of the blown up cylinder...
SDC12206.jpg

SDC12205.jpg

SDC12204.jpg


i also need a few bolts that are missing for the power valves, like 6, and im not sure but might need another spring. i figured this would be a fun build and with the help of you guys i should have no problem rebuilding this. and anyone that has a service manual or knows a way to test a thing or two on here id greatly appreciate it if you posted, i will be creating a folder with all testing procedures i find in it...
 

I have a printed version of the 98/99 service manual. Burned through an entire ink cartridge in my printer when I printed it off. For $30 I'll send it to you.

The little hose with the screw thingy in it is for bleeding the oil pump. Hard to tell from the rest of the pictures what condition things are in. That last cylinder looks like it needs to me re-done. The middle one is probably usable, the first one looks like the nicasil is flaked. If so it needs to be re-done as well.
 
Mysledblows said:
I have a printed version of the 98/99 service manual. Burned through an entire ink cartridge in my printer when I printed it off. For $30 I'll send it to you.

The little hose with the screw thingy in it is for bleeding the oil pump. Hard to tell from the rest of the pictures what condition things are in. That last cylinder looks like it needs to me re-done. The middle one is probably usable, the first one looks like the nicasil is flaked. If so it needs to be re-done as well.
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how much do you think it would cost to get them redone? if i do 2 im gonna go ahead and do 3 depending on the price... and can anyone on this forum re-doo cylinders?
 
There are a few places that will repair/replate them. Millennium, Image, Eckhoffs, are the three that come to mind. They all probably have them available on an exchange basis. No clue on the cost, but probably in the $150 to $200 range. You can probably find them used on here for less. Depends on the route you want to take and how much $$ you want tied up in the sled. I don't know of anyone from the forum that actually replates them themselves.
 
totally not worth it then... im gonna visually inspect them again, i had a sled like that i just had honed out and it worked fine, maybe i should just hone and measure it to make sure its not out of spec
 
ok so i looked at the jugs, they seem to all be fine, even the blown one... the only thing was they were covered in dust from sitting around for 3 years
 
ok what do the numbers mean on the jugs and heads? two jugs say 8dn00 y-2, one jug says 8dn10 y-1, and one head says 8dn00 og1, another says 8dn10 og1, and the third says 8dn00 og2. does it matter what any of these mean?
 
ok i did some research and it looks like someone put a single jug and head off a 00-02 srx on this sled... i heard there is a difference in these two and it isnt a good idea, anyone know about this? and does anyone have a jug and head from 98-99 they want to trade for a 00-02?
 
I have a clutch for 175 from an 04 viper. Would need weights and rollers for the srx. You could swap in what you have now.
 
About you cyls, you know they are nikasil plated and they can be deglazed as long as there arent any scores you can feel w your fingernail. The piston material is softer than the coating and will actually come off of the nikasil. But if its chipped around the port edges or out of spec then it would need to be replated. ;)!
 
Bluemonster2 said:
About you cyls, you know they are nikasil plated and they can be deglazed as long as there arent any scores you can feel w your fingernail. The piston material is softer than the coating and will actually come off of the nikasil. But if its chipped around the port edges or out of spec then it would need to be replated. ;)!
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ok that's what i thought, there isnt any gouges, there actually isnt even really any on the blown cylinder, im gonna go over them more when i get home, what do you think about the jugs and heads being different? are the 98-99 jugs same as the 00-01? this way i don't have to buy a jug i can jsut buy a head, i know the heads are different but wasn't sure about the jugs
 
staggs65 said:
jugs are different too different port specs. you can have the the 2 origionals ported to the 00-02 specs but it'd be cheaper to buy a used 98-99cyl
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ya and i found a guy on crigslist with a jug and head for 75 dollars... and 2 different ones to choose from... just waiting on opening the crank case to see if its worth rebuilding
 
ok i got the clutch of and motor out, what should i be looking for when cracking this baby open? and how do i tell if the clutch is good?
 
ok i got it opened and was amazed at how clean it was, i cleaned it a bit with a rag but here is the crank, bottom half of the case, and top half of the case, how do i go about inspecting the crank? and does anyone know how many half clip things should be in here? there's 5 slots for them but only 3 here...

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Given the engine was left open and it sat for years as you said, I would send the crankshaft to someone who is an experton the SRX cranks to be sure it is OK. It is critical for all the bearings to turn silky smooth and have NO rust or corrosion on them. The service manual outlines all of the measurements required to check the crank. You will need a set of V blocks and a dial indicator. It is best left to an expert. I had one SRX crank repaired by Jeff and Midwest Crankshafts in WI. He now has a second crank from me to be checked out.

You should also remove the water pump impeller and seals. COMPLETELY disassemble that engine, clean everything spotlessly clean and use ONLY OEM parts. You will get all the help and advice you need to do the job right from members on this site.
 
ya i had my boss look the crank over, he has build several Yamaha's and currently has a 06 attack with an 08 apex motor in it and is boosted, i might have another shop near me look it over just in case to make sure its good if it doesn't cost allot, my boss says it looks like i pulled the crank out of a running motor... all the bearings are smooth, no corrosion and surprisingly enough no rust either
 
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