so confused on studding

J

jasburrito

New member
Joined
Feb 7, 2011
Messages
141
Age
49
Location
GR
I have a 1997 xtc with a 1.25 ripsaw track on it. There are no stud protectors. I'm just looking for safety not all out hole shot traction. I first bought 1.40 studs. They are too big. Now I just bought some 1.15. Will they work? Will they hit with no protectors? Or should I just run no studs.
Huge thanks. :o|
 
You need Tunnel and heat exchange protectors when running studs. As far as length of studs, you may have to install one and see what type of penetration you have. Also, with a 1.25 track, you may not have enough clearence to install the protectors unless you change your drive axle drivers.
 
1.25 track should have 1.5" studs. but you will be pretty close to the heat exchanger with 9 tooth drivers. They will fit, but gonna be tight. U will want to keep your track tight. 1.15" are way too short. How many 1.15's did you buy. I may be interested in them if u don't want them. PM me if you want to get rid of them. They are for a 1" track.
 
Woody's recommends 1.325" studs for that track with tunnel protectors and ideally eight tooth drivers and the appropriate gearing.
 
stud lengths vary.
the studs you bought will work fine in a 1.25 track. I have studded lots of those tracks with 1.175 studs and they extend 1/4 past the lug which is the max on that chassis, at that, you will get some scraping around the tank area but no real damage.
If you put 1.5 suds in a 1.25 track, you will be building something that wont last trail riding on icy trails.
If on that track you find that brand 1.15 stud doesn't give you the 1/4, just use a sheet rock knife and shave off the difference, do not use longer studs on that chassis.
for the normal riding, use a 144 double backer pattern and stay away from patterns that use studs in the center. the studs in the center have little to no pressure on them. Keep them outside as much as possible.
You will need tunnel and heat exchanger protectors. make sure they are lined up with each other, yes, I have seen them set so far off the studs hit them. Also, that chassis is designed around a 3/4 in track. This means that any lug above 3/4in need to be shaved off where it will touch the guard. This can be done with a Knife. Only remove the width of your guards. If you do not do this, you will kill your top end. do not believe people who say just ride it and it will burn in, it will cost you lots of gas and slow rides down the long lake for most of the season.
 
Well, i run 1.5" stud boys on my 1.25" ripsaw. Get about 1/4" above the lug. The only 1.15" studs i have seen are Extreme Max brand, & are recomended for use on 1" lug tracks. But, do whatever u want. No point in studding it if the studs are shorter than the lugs.
 
I went thru a whole thing on stud length for mine. You need to measure the lug height as well as the total height (track thickness +lug height) then look at the manufacturers OAL for the stud your considering. Compare the OAL to your total height including the thickness of your track. Find a stud that is between .250 and .375" longer then your total track height. I found my 1" hacksaw was just slightly over 7/8" lug height and just about .050" over 1" in total height including the track. Assuming you draw the stud head nearly flush, I found the woody's 1.005 studs that are 1.410 to be just about right for my track. Theay gave me about .300" penetration. or just over 1/4". Hope it helps. Look at my past posts about studs and lug height , it details everything I went thru to learn this. GIL
 
Thanks alot guys. I,m really nervous about dropping the track to put in front heat exchanger pertectors. Might be hard to find a set! If my studs are a tad shorter than lugs would I need protectors? Seems it might be better to get a diff sled. I'm prob gonna go stud less another season. I have 96 redtip studs 1.15=1.49,backers nuts. think they were 93-98 dollars .Could try to talk 1 of my buddys into swapping (1inch)tracks with me and adding the guards. I know they like my track. Thanks again.

Gil . The correct studs for my track would be 1.32-1.40. But I've read many threads on people running shorter 1's (big lugs and fingers bend) :letitsnow

Really geeked for this winter.My bud got a sled.So now I have someone to rip with. He got a 2000 600 poo xc. Hope mines faster than his. ;)!
 
Last edited:
My .02 cents as far as not running any, Where abouts on earth are youdoing most of your riding? Back country with lots of powder.....syuds wont make that much of a difference. Staying on good groomed/good snow on trails...studs will help. Poor snow/icy condition trails...studs will make a WORLD of difference! Not only will they help holeshot/stopping they due double duty choppin up ice and slinging it on exchangers, scratchers on skis arent a bad idea either Keep in mind the bigger bite and higher number of studs may make sled want to go strait all the time, Make sure your carbides are good or even upgrade to counterthe tracking issues of heavily studded track. I run 188 in mine, 144 in the girlfreinds and the 14 yr old daughter sportin 96 in hers.
 
last winter there was lots of snow

I ride from cedar springs to sand lake and back.lowell trail towards muskegon and back. Ice fishing ect http://www.michiweb.com/cadillac/wptrail.html Lowell area fields. We had lots of snow last year. Ya holeshots on icy roads blew. Really the best thing for me to do would be add tunnel protectors,heat exchanger protectors,install 8 tooth drivers. Thats alot of work and $. Still debating my choices. Thanks again


O ya,
I bought a tool kit and spark plug holder from a hard core yamy guy in lowell. He had many custom sleds. He no longer uses studs in any of his yamys. His all were long tracked with 1.25 to 2.00 lug tracks. Riding pow though. But whatever
 
Last edited:
I live in Muskegon. I'd be glad to give you what help I can. Adding the protectors and or the 8 tooth drivers is no big deal. The front protectors on my viper had been removed so I got a pair from High performance Engineering (www.hiperf.com). I also added a rear exchanger from an srx and made my own protectors for that for $5 (see my write up in the tech section). From what I've seen 8 tooth drivers are not the much and just a matter for having them pressed on your shaft. It's really not that big a deal to end up with a sled you know is right and are Totally happy with. You realt need to meassure YOUR tracks total height. You might find your 1.25" ripsaw is actually closer to 1.25" total height including the thickness of the track. If so your 1.490" studs would give you .240" penetration or just a hair under 1/4" which would be okay. Gil
 
Last edited:
Thanks for that link (www.hiperf.com). I'm gonna have to think about it. Lots of work. I'm in the process of getting this out of my garage.http://youtu.be/yE28pbQs_80
Should be gone in week or so.
Thanks again


update I ordered those heat exchanger protectors from hiperf,,they were super nice.
thank again
 
Last edited:
Do not bother with 8 tooth drivers, they are not worth the loss in speed and track tension.
There are two style heat exchanger protectors, one needs track removed, the other you just drill a hole up past the track with a long drill bit, the top just slides into it.
you will need to remove the tank and seat to rivet in the upper ones. I will check to see what I have.
The studs you have will work if you do what I said above. Depending on the brand, they might even stick above without trimming track.
It is a good idea to pull the skid while your doing this, not that it needs to but it is better way to really check the skid and fix any issues before the season starts. read the post below for info on removal and rebuilding as well as setup.
 
So I need the the tunnel protectors. Heat exchanger protectors. Are these the parts I need? http://www.hiperf.com/acatalog/Snowmobile_Parts_Tunnel___Frame_Protectors_204.html
Says the tunnel protectors are good for 1 inch tracks?
huge thanks.
So no 8 tooth drivers needed.

stud lengths vary.
the studs you bought will work fine in a 1.25 track. I have studded lots of those tracks with 1.175 studs and they extend 1/4 past the lug which is the max on that chassis, at that, you will get some scraping around the tank area but no real damage.
If you put 1.5 suds in a 1.25 track, you will be building something that wont last trail riding on icy trails.
If on that track you find that brand 1.15 stud doesn't give you the 1/4, just use a sheet rock knife and shave off the difference, do not use longer studs on that chassis.
for the normal riding, use a 144 double backer pattern and stay away from patterns that use studs in the center. the studs in the center have little to no pressure on them. Keep them outside as much as possible.
You will need tunnel and heat exchanger protectors. make sure they are lined up with each other, yes, I have seen them set so far off the studs hit them. Also, that chassis is designed around a 3/4 in track. This means that any lug above 3/4in need to be shaved off where it will touch the guard. This can be done with a Knife. Only remove the width of your guards. If you do not do this, you will kill your top end. do not believe people who say just ride it and it will burn in, it will cost you lots of gas and slow rides down the long lake for most of the season.
 
Yes, that is the style though I dont trust the aluminum version as I have seen the pin on the end vibrate off. I only use steel version of this. I just checked and I do have a set of steel ones that have the steel pin conversion. If you do decide to use aluminum ones, you will want to cut the pin off, drill and tap the end, thread a bolt in there with locktite, then cut the top off to correct length. This way even the aluminum ones wont fail.
I also have some used tunnel guards as well. I will pm you some prices.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.


Back
Top