Exciter knowledge 101

I know some people are big fans of just running pod filters. I have never been. I prefer an airbox to draw cooler air. You have no choice but to draw warm air from under the hood with an open pod filter. Also, in some cases you have concerns about air drafting from spinning clutches and so on. This can cause the PTO side to require different jetting than the Mag side. And also have a harder time pulling air if the clutches are pulling it away. Not sure if this actually pertains to the Exciter, but is very common with other sleds.

Is it a waste of money? Not necessarily, but it will require some re jetting for optimal performance. You could just add an aluminum plate to the frame on the clutch side to act as a shield to the spinning clutches making somewhat of an air chamber for the uni filters. Just thinking while I'm typing I guess. You want the intake air to be as consistent as possible or your jetting can be very finicky.
 

heres my airbox mod,the top is also cut in half,3 screws and u can see right in there
w-arm002.jpg
w-arm003.jpg
w-arm001.jpg
 
dsc, where did you found that exciter hood decal? Awesome! Also like your your ventkit, was planning to do just like that myself :)

When i see your airbox, is it a bender cool air kit i see?

fullmonte, thanx for your thoughts about the uni filters, it seems like a good idea to cut off that warm air with a plate..... just might do that. The jetting is a big issue right now though i got flatslides on... don´t have a clue where to start from.....
 
got decals at fleet farm-5 bucks,yea cold air scoop off ebay,screen kit is made out off stove top vent filters,made a 2" bar riser out of 1" square tubing,had to swap cables and slide around and move brake lever over and ran throttle cables threw air box
 
UNI-filter...

prankster said:
What about UNI-filters ?
I got rid of my airbox and bought a couple of these filters.
It sounds really great but it´s almost like driving with the choke on..
Is this a waist of money or what ?
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prankster said:
The jetting is a big issue right now though I got flatslides on...
don´t have a clue where to start from.....
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Be sure to get the right UNI-filters for Snowmobile use.
( Do not use the GREEN colored UNI-filters in snowmobile,
they will act like you running with choke on. )

Since you have put on Mikuni-TM carbs on your EX570-I
As a starting point use the jetting for Exciter-SX and work your way from there.



:2strokes:
 
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G.T.F.O i got the green unis! No wonder it´s gettin rich!!! And i bought em on a store especially for snowmobiles. Well you live you learn right? dsc, That thing looks great! nice job, and yes it looks much more brutal with pods:)

Tell me more about the bender cold airkit, i´m lookin for something like that right now.
 
cold air kit is just two scoops.one goes on top of louver and one below directing air into airbox.i used pods for awhile because i couldnt stand trying to get carbs out with that louver in the way,after i cut it out and attached the scoop to the hood its an easy job now.the most effective thing is the psi recommended air box cutout,everybody did that back in the day,i just cut the airbox scoop to match the bigger opening,
 
ahhh very interesting:) please explain that psi cutout further..... and let me know if u find a coldair kit somewhere
 
Check out the link to the PSI tuning data posted by dsc577.
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I'm confused how any of these cut outs were supposed to do anything but draw warm air. Unfiltered air at that. And does anyone know what the small hole under the rubber boot was supposed to accomplish. :dunno:
If you are going to be cutting, I still think the back side is a better idea. Cooler air and less belt dust.

I will post up more pics of my complete intake once I have the motor in. I will run the intake shelf to the air box. However, I will use phifertex or however you spell it. Lol This is the same material used for mesh hoods, pet doors, boat seats etc.. and will act as an intermediate filter. This will hold the snow if you get into the deep stuff so it won't flow down to the airbox itself. And if this plugs, the box will still pull air from the back.
 
Also, does anyone have any idea's about pressing the rear heat exchanger flat, when xtending the track to a 136? Obviously the exchanger either has to be pressed flat, or moved to the back of the tunnel extension, or else it'll get crushed by the suspension, so any info would be helpful.
 
i did´nt move the rear heat exchanger on mine, maybe it´s because of the v-max skid....? or maybe it´s because of the brackets? My cousin has a 144" on his ex2 and he is moving it to the back of the extension. Was an easy job but u got to find a nice looking solution for the coolant hoses.
 
heres a couple of picks of a badly cut airbox and the scoop that can be cut to match.i have a hood scoop to that i used for awhile but its covered in duct tape.
airbox002.jpg

airbox001.jpg
 
I cut the angled portion off and then used a piece of that angle section to weld up the flat part. Still left me with plenty of radiator, I did not have to relocate anything and it looked factory.
 
It´s time to allign my clutches, what is the correct meassurements for the exciter? And what is the proper way to do this?
 
prankster said:
It´s time to allign my clutches, what is the correct meassurements for the exciter? And what is the proper way to do this?
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Depends on how much engine, drive train and clutch work you've done. You might have to add or remove spacers on the secondary clutch, or a combination of moving the engine back and forth until the primary clutch lines up with the secondary. The Yamaha Sheave Guage (P/n: YS-91047) is whats needed to be accurate, although I'm sure most people eye-ball it.

Here is a TF forum item on the Yami Guage, http://www.totallyamaha.net/forums/showthread.php?t=61116

Let me know what, else you need.

Here are the specs for the stock clutching, hopefully it's good enough to see.

 
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