Exciter knowledge 101

Just bought a 89L belt, heading out to the garage to mount it, thanx for the info. I let u know how it works later this evening:)
 
prankster said:
Just bought a 89L belt,
heading out to the garage to mount it.
I let u know how it works later this evening.
Click to expand...
Here is a short video of how your Belt Deflection should look like when it is adjusted the right way :
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VNVv-jOzaIE

* Check and adjust the belt deflection often and you will be having more fun on your sled.


:2strokes:
 
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Hmmm it looks like the new ex2 drivebelt was to thick for my comet, it is probably already modified to fit org. ex1 belt.... Well more money to spend on other things:) Tomorrow i´ll adjust the secondary and see if that solves my previous problems with a self going sled... My guess is that my previous belt is either too short or that i need more spacers in my sec.

I´m not really satisfied tonight guys though my sled refused to start.... i got it going when i put gas straight down the plugholes, but it´s quite dead when i pull it! I don´t think it´s getting fuel the way it should. Maybe my flatslide carbs has some strange electrical shit that´s bother? Or could it be something with the vaccum (seems like it don´t suck the way it should). Plugs seem dry when i check them.

The compression is really grat btw, it kind of feels after i pulled it way too many times, electrical start feels like a good option for my next mod:) What do u think guys shall i blow it up....just a little pleeeease;)
 
prankster said:
Hmmm it looks like my new Exciter-II drivebelt was to thick for my Comet,
My Comet is probably already modified to fit the stock Exciter-I drive belt.
Well more money to spend on other things.
Tomorrow I will adjust the secondary and see if that solves my previous problems with a self going sled...
My guess is that my previous belt is either too short or that I need more spacers in my sec.
Click to expand...
Measure the belt to sheave distance with your new Exciter-II drive belt with a feeler gauge.
The belt to sheave distance in the Comet should be around 0,020" ( 0,5-0,6 mm )

It is easy to change the shims in the Comet but you will need some special tools.

Here you have a little video about it if you are unsure how to do it :
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W4HEZkABO7Q

:2strokes:
 
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Yeah! great clip, but then i need some tools..... I found out that this belt might work,this is the same as the stock 87-89 exciter belt but it´s an ultimax:

http://emurdock.com/125-4320u3highperformancesnowmobilebelt.aspx

Got a message from the guy i got the clutch from and he said i would use stock ex1 belt. What do u think of this, i´m not in the mood to shim the comet right now just want an easy way out so i can drive it:)
 
they can be set up either way,stick with the belt its set up for,i took the easy out and ditched it,put on stock clutch,havent had any issues since
 
prankster said:
Hmmm it looks like the new ex2 drivebelt was to thick for my comet, it is probably already modified to fit org. ex1 belt.... Well more money to spend on other things:) Tomorrow i´ll adjust the secondary and see if that solves my previous problems with a self going sled... My guess is that my previous belt is either too short or that i need more spacers in my sec.

I´m not really satisfied tonight guys though my sled refused to start.... i got it going when i put gas straight down the plugholes, but it´s quite dead when i pull it! I don´t think it´s getting fuel the way it should. Maybe my flatslide carbs has some strange electrical shit that´s bother? Or could it be something with the vaccum (seems like it don´t suck the way it should). Plugs seem dry when i check them.

The compression is really grat btw, it kind of feels after i pulled it way too many times, electrical start feels like a good option for my next mod:) What do u think guys shall i blow it up....just a little pleeeease;)
Click to expand...


Prankster, try starting it on the stand. When I switched to the fatter belt, my exciter wouldn't start either. As soon as I started it on the stand, I noticed that the track started running right away.

[
Lasse said:
Too Tight of belt Deflection:
When the belt deflection is set too tight the belt burns the cogs when sitting and idling anywhere near or below engagement.
Click to expand...

And I read above, Lasse said that the track will turn if the belt deflection is too tight. Either add more washer so the belt falls further in the secondary, or increase the spacing in the primary clutch.

I'll take measurements of the belt Im using now, which should be able to tell you what width of belt you need to run "ok" - the u can follow Lasse's chart for a belt #.
 
prankster said:
I found out that this belt might work,
this is the same as the stock 87-89 Exciter belt but It is an Carlisle Ultimax:
Carlisle Ultimax : 125-4320U3
Got a message from the guy I got the clutch from and he said I would use stock Exciter-I belt.
What do u think of this ?
I'm not in the mood to shim the Comet right now,
just want an easy way out so I can drive it.
Click to expand...
In fact Carlisle have 6 !!! different Ultimax drive belt recomendations for the Exciter-I/II family...

* 1987-1989 : 125-4320U3 or 125-4320U4
* 1990 : 138-4400U3 or 138-4400U4
* 1991-1993 : 138-4416U3 or 138-4416U4


Part # ---> OC = Outside Circumference , TW = Top Width :
* 125-4320U3 ---> OC = 1098,15 mm , TW = 31,35 mm
* 125-4320U4 ---> OC = 1114,43 mm , TW = 32,94 mm
* 138-4400U3 ---> OC = 1138,24 mm , TW = 34,93 mm
* 138-4400U4 ---> OC = 1138,24 mm , TW = 36,51 mm
* 138-4416U3 ---> OC = 1128,71 mm , TW = 34,53 mm
* 138-4416U4 ---> OC = 1136,65 mm , TW = 36,51 mm
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
* 87X-17641-00 ---> OC = 1120,00 mm , TW = 34,40 mm
* 89L-17641-00 ---> OC = 1124,00 mm , TW = 35,20 mm


I would stick to the Exciter-II ( 89L ) belt and get the Comet belt to sheave distance permanently adjusted for the 89L belt.

;) In the snowmobile business there is no easy ways ! ;)


:2strokes:
 
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stanage said:
Prankster,
The track will turn if the belt deflection is too tight.
Either add more washer so the belt falls further in the secondary,
or increase the spacing in the primary clutch.
Click to expand...
Noo....

1. First you permanently adjust the drive belt to sheave distance in your primary clutch with a NEW belt
and then stick to that known belt # always.

2. Then you adjust your drive belt deflection with shims/washers in the secondary clutch.

Always adjust the drive belt deflection in the secondary clutch !


:2strokes:
 
thanx for all the tips lasse! U are a keeper:) Got my sled going today, had to feed it through the plugholes and then it fired up in a big cloud of smoke:) Took it for a testrun and everything seems ok. I checked the engagement rpm and it seem to be very low...3500 rpm. It kind of hesitates before it takes off, checked the belt deflection by lifting up the rear end. The track did´nt move at all not even when i pulled it by hand. I think i used to many shims in my secondary. Or that my brake is on a bit... Tried to fix my brake (took most of the day) had a shitty wire that i had to work with. My 6" risers made it hard to find a suitable wire. Never mind i gonna change it to a hydralic one as soon as possible. (my cousine already did, works awesome).

Fire in the hall:)
 
I m a bit fed up not having electricstarter on my sled... can anyone tell me which models who will be the easiest to take one from? There is a vk540 near by that i can use but will it fit? I also would like some closeup pics on the mounting especially the cables and battery. Thanx d
 
yea i can get ya some pics,youre runnin flat sides right?those chokes have a two stage lever,make sure the slide on the rack is moving all the way out.other models interchangeable?idk.you need balancer,starter motor,battery tray,wireing harness,key switch,battery pretty unique size to this sled,the solenoid is hooked on the fender side of the battery tray and the main wire runs under it to the starter,rest ill have to look at tonight
i put some pics on fb,lot easier
 
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Just checked them out, thanx alot:) With those pics i cant fail.... Now i just need to find a complete bolt on kit.... Yeah i run flatslides from a 600, damn they are good when u compare them to the originals. I was out again earlier tonight to work with my secondary... I took away one of the schims but the track still does´nt move when i raised the rear end. I think a have to remove one more. Got some carb issues too have the original vmax 600 jetting on it now and the plugs were really wet. The bastard almost sounded like a fourstroke and went like crap on low throttle. When i idle it just stoped and was very hard to start again. On higher rpm it worked pretty descent but when i let go off the throttle it went like crap again. With the original carbs i had 310 mains but now i don´t have the slightest idea what to put in?

I dont want to burn any more pistons so i´m after a safety zone so i really need some advice here guys..... I´m also thinking of getting a digatron so i can monitor the exhaust temp as i´m messing with the jets. Another problem is the unis, the bastard became even worse when i put them on. I´m thinking of cutting the foam away and just use the skeleton with mesh cloth around?
 
Thanx for your contribution to the thread vmax 540, we really appreciate all info we can get about these sleds:)
 
prankster said:
I run flatslides from a V-Max 600,
damn they are good when u compare them to the originals.

1. Got some carb issues with the original V-Max 600 jetting on it now and the plugs were really wet.
The bastard almost sounded like a fourstroke and went like crap on low throttle.
When I idle it just stoped and was very hard to start again.
On higher rpm it worked pretty descent but when I let go off the throttle it went like crap again.
With the original VM-38 carbs I had 310 mains but now I don't have the slightest idea what to put in?
I dont want to burn any more pistons so I am after a safety zone so I really need some advice here guys!

2. I was out again earlier tonight to work with my secondary...
I took away one of the schims but the track still does not move when I raised the rear end.
I think I have to remove one more.

3. Another problem is the UNI air filters,
the bastard became even worse when i put them on.
I´m thinking of cutting the foam away and just use the skeleton with mesh cloth around ?
Click to expand...
1. Just to get a baseline jetting that works,
take a look at the jetting on the Exciter-II SX ( 1993 ) ---> They have Mikuni TM-38 "flatslides" from factory.

2. Have you put in the new Exciter-II belt yet ?

3. Your jetting is way to fat today, and when you put on the GREEN UNI's it get even worse !
The GREEN UNI's is not made for Snowmobile use !
It's acting like driving with the choke on.
 
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Thanx lasse & monte:)
I will play with the jetting on saturday, it will be a horrible day with a lot of swearing and evil words haha. Anyway those green unis really suck, gonna buy some red ones. (not from the same store as before:) I must contact them and give them those facts... maybe i can get my money back or some parts:)
 
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