12vdc source for 97-99 sx

SX600abuser

SX600abuser

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Holland, MI
Hey guys I need your input. I am referencing this thread: http://www.totallyamaha.net/forums/showthread.php?t=58664&page=1&pp=10&highlight=brown+wire

According to this the brown tach wire will were I want to hook up for GPS even though that thread was about an srx. I don't want to hook up on the hood, I was hoping for closer to the handlebars. I was going to tie in where the brown wire connects to the ignition key. Does anyone see a problem with this?

I originally hooked into the blue wire, but doublechecked the threads before attempting to run anything off of it and noticed blue wire was a 12vAC source on sleds proactions before 2001. I know this topic has been lively, to say the least, but I couldn't find any solid evidence about 12vdc for 97-99 sleds. Let me know what you guys think.
 
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First of all if this sled does NOT have a battery. You're at extremely high risk of blowing his GPS. In fact it would be unlikely to survive a ride.

You need pure 12-15VDC max for the GPS lighter adapter for one thing. Building a power supply utilizing the AC from the sled requires some skills in electronics but the end result from such a power supply is still DC clean filtered power.

If you want a sure fired solution either get a 12V sled, motorcycle or 2 - 6VDC lanturn batteries (in series) and mount/secure them away from heat into the battery cage and wire a 12V lighter socket fusing the +ve center lead at 2-5 amps since 1 amp is the most the GPS would draw. Charge the battery pack before each weekend since it will last a long time in that application. In virtually all situation you'll have to use the 12V adapter which came with the GPS which supplies 5VDC to the GPS especially with Garmin since they have it wired for it to detect a charger rather than a computer's USB port which puts the GPS into DATA mode rendering navigation impossible.

Any electronic circuit source would need to be regulated DC and < 15VDC.
 
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tripplec said:
First of all if this sled does NOT have a battery. You're at extremely high risk of blowing his GPS. In fact it would be unlikely to survive a ride.

You need pure 12-15VDC max for the GPS lighter adapter for one thing.
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I am under the impression that based off the testing done in the thread posted above that the brown wire is a clean DC running at a consistant 14.5V. Wiring is not what I would consider myself to be an ace in so I honestly don't understand that IF this is true, then what is converting the AC current to DC in the wiring? :o|
 
Below is my sleds wiring diagram ( 99 sx600 triple ). Now according to this it looks like the red wire coming from the recifier is my dc source. It goes through the ignition switch and comes out as the brown wire where it heads for the tach. It is only used by the tach and the fuel guage. It has a capacitor to smooth out the ripples for clean dc. Why couldn't this be used to power my gps? Maybe an additional capacitor?

diagram.jpg

diag.jpg
 
Why not use the e start lead? On your 99, it should be by your right knee. The plug is right on top of you footwell. Look on the back side there right above the foothold. Do you see a spare connector?
 
SXRider7Hundo said:
Why not use the e start lead? On your 99, it should be by your right knee. The plug is right on top of you footwell. Look on the back side there right above the foothold. Do you see a spare connector?
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There are a couple of them. One is for the backup buzzer and the other is for the battery. What I just realized I overlooked is that the brown wire goes to the backup buzzer and I can tie in right there. I don't know if it matters whether I tie in on the brown rather then the red, but because the capacitor and all the DC components are on the brown wire I feel better about it. Thanks for your help sxrider7.
 
tripplec said:
What make and model of GPS are you wiring up to the sled? It will be interesting to hear the results once tested.
Good Luck
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Garmin Nuvi 550. I will be testing voltage before hand to ensure it is maintaining a level below 15v throughout the rpm range.
 
I hate to see you blow that GPS. Smart checking it though. I might suggest putting a diode or rectifier (same thing) in series with the stripped end facing the GPS connection and a 1000 micro farad 25VDC capacitor from that stripped end to ground.

I don't have a electrical drawing software so its difficult to draw. The triangular end of a diode is where +ve goes in (forward bias) and current will flow out the other end. This allows the 1000mF capacitor to charge and filter ripple cleaning the output. The purpose of the rectifier is to prevent reverse discharge by the other devices power on the brown wire. In otherwords the power stored within the capacitor cannot discharge back through the diode since its reverse bias and blocked in that direction. The GPS is all that benefits from it.

I hope that is clear enough. The diode should be rated at 2A min and 50VDC or higher. This should be easy to find if not use 2 -1Amp diodes and parallel them noting the polarity is the same which will double the rating of them.
 
tripplec said:
I hate to see you blow that GPS. Smart checking it though. I might suggest putting a diode or rectifier (same thing) in series with the stripped end facing the GPS connection and a 1000 micro farad 25VDC capacitor from that stripped end to ground.

I don't have a electrical drawing software so its difficult to draw. The triangular end of a diode is where +ve goes in (forward bias) and current will flow out the other end. This allows the 1000mF capacitor to charge and filter ripple cleaning the output. The purpose of the rectifier is to prevent reverse discharge by the other devices power on the brown wire. In otherwords the power stored within the capacitor cannot discharge back through the diode since its reverse bias and blocked in that direction. The GPS is all that benefits from it.

I hope that is clear enough. The diode should be rated at 2A min and 50VDC or higher. This should be easy to find if not use 2 -1Amp diodes and parallel them noting the polarity is the same which will double the rating of them.
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Yeah what he said...lol. ;)!
 
Garmin makes a hardwire kit that takes it from 12v to 5v. This is a must for the nuvi series. Not sure on the rest. I am doing the same thing now with a 500 nuvi. But i am running it to battery. Just going to run a cigarette adapter and use the power cord that came with it that drops the volts. No matter how you do it you must have a set up that drops the volts to max of 5v or you will blow it up as tripplec said. Ive seen them on the garmin store and ebay, not much money.
 
It won't work with a USB adapter which plugs into 12V. Garmin puts a special resistor between the 4 & 5 pin to tell it if its connect to a computor or charger. You have to use the adapter that comes with it or buy the kit "super1c" mentioned.
 
SX600abuser said:
There are a couple of them. One is for the backup buzzer and the other is for the battery. What I just realized I overlooked is that the brown wire goes to the backup buzzer and I can tie in right there. I don't know if it matters whether I tie in on the brown rather then the red, but because the capacitor and all the DC components are on the brown wire I feel better about it. Thanks for your help sxrider7.
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Be sure to check that voltage because when hooking up reverse there are 2 different buzzers, 1 for AC (non-electric start) and 1 for DC (electric start). You should be able to see this in the tech section undert reverse install.
 
edunn69 said:
Be sure to check that voltage because when hooking up reverse there are 2 different buzzers, 1 for AC (non-electric start) and 1 for DC (electric start). You should be able to see this in the tech section undert reverse install.
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Thanks for that tip. I looked up the instructions and it noted to use the DC buzzer if equipped with electronic fuel gauge and/or battery. I am about 90% sure it is a DC wire, especially after reading that note. Thanks again for the tip on where to look. ;)
 
Small update, plugged in an old radar detector I had laying around to see if it would work as it should and it did, it didn't burn the detector up! Going to check voltage then plug in the GPS this weekend. Just wanted to keep you guys updated.
 
If you have a spare 3157 bulb you could clip onto it. It will have more load with the bright element than the GPS while the other element is likely around what it would be when the battery is charged. Can't blow a bulb that easily.

Good luck!!!!
 
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