Another SRX Stator Problem possibly

devfurnace

devfurnace

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Joined
Dec 5, 2011
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Age
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Location
Dickinson Ctr, NY
Ok, so I am new to the forum and have been reading through some of the SRX 700 problems. I have recently bought a 2000 SRX 700. Bought it from a friend knowing that it doesn't run. He said it had no spark and believed it needed a stator. So first off I wanted to do my own tests to see if that is the problem. First thing I did was pulled all the wires out from underneath the motor. Haven't re-routed them but I am going to after I figure out what is wrong with it. Now I have read through a lot of posts and testing the stator is what I think i should do. The only thing is I'm and kind of unsure how to do so. I have 3 white wire coming out right behind the recoil and I would imagine that these are to the stator. I could be apsolutley wrong also. So any help on what anyone thinks I should try would be great. I also unhooked the load control relay and was also wonderin, if i just unplug the kill button, does that bypass it or kill the engine? Also, my friend who I bought the sled from also said he bought another cdi and tried it in the sled and it made no difference. If there is any more info anyone needs, I will be glad to answer. Also if you have any diagrams for this sled and its wiring, I could probably use that also because I'm pretty sure it is an electrical problem. Thanks in advance.
 
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Your probably on the right track but before you get too far into things you should make sure the kill button isn't causing the lack of spark issue or perhaps a faulty key switch.If you can plug what ever you unplugged back in and try bypassing these one at a time to see if there's any difference.I've got the manual for a 98/99 but the stator for yours is different so the testing procedure I have wont be any good to you unfortunately but I'm sure someone will chime in here with what you need.
 
do you have access to a quality multimeter? this is the first thing you will need. next thing to know is that the ohm specs for the stator are based on a temperature of 68*F.

those three white wires you see actually are coded with a colored stripe. look closer, you will see one with a red stripe and one with a green. the third is all white.

if you attach the + from the meter to the white/red and the - to the white/green, you should see 189-231 ohms resistance. next attach the + to the white wire and check between it and the other two wires and you should see .36-.44 ohms resistance.

the key switch, the throttle switch, the carb switch and the load control relay can all play a part in a no spark condition. special tools needed to test the lcr, but the rest can be done with the multimeter. eliminate these as a posssibilty before hunting down bad wiring.
 
Ok, I tried testing withmy multi meter. When testing it I got a reading of ~400 ohms. My garage is only maybe 45 - 50 degrees F. Tested between the whites and they are ~.6 ohms. I just want to sure I am checking it correctly.There is one white/red, one white/green and three that are all white correct? Now, what would be the best way to check the key switch, the kill switch, carb switch and the throttle swith. I did unplug the load control relay to see if it made a difference and it didn't.Thanks for the input.
 
for the carb switch: unplug the wires and on the carb side wires, you should not have any continuity with the throttle lever on.

kill switch: unplug the connector with the three wires. black, black/white, and black/yellow. from the black to the black/white you should have continuity with the switch up or on, no continuity when its in the off position.

throttle switch: using the same connector for the kill switch, black to black/yellow should show no continuity until the throttle lever is pressed.

if you testing the stator correctly and you have confidence in your multimeter, your test numbers are way beyond spec and probably indicates a faulty stator. you went color for color as described earlier and the plug is unplugged and you probed the short lead from the stator? should be 2 plugs, the one with the white/red and the white/greenand one with three whites. the one with the three has 2 over one. - to either of the upper two and + to the lower one.
 
So I tried testing each of the switches and all of the switches seem to check out. The only things that differ from what you had said to me is that when the kill button was in the up/on position it had no continuity and when you pressed it, it did have continuity. I actually have an 2 year degree in electrical engineering so I do know a little bit about testing circuits and what not. I do have a decent multi meter, it's not a fluke but it's not something from the dollar store either. I checked the stator again tonight and when i check the resistance between the white/red and the white/green and I may have miss read my meter last time. It was measuring anywhere around 400k ohms. I am guessing this is a good indication of it not being a good stator. I want to pull the stator off but I don't know if taking it off with tell me anything more than what I already know. I don't want to do all the work of taking it off if that's not the problem. I guess I'm just looking for more advice. Thanks again.
 
the problem with checking just the resistance is the temp outside will change the readings. its much better to check the voltage output from the wires while pulling it over, it should show you varying voltage as you can only pull it over so fast. the pick up coil likes to go bad alot on these. I also would look thru the hole on the case top and see if the flywheel is rusted, rusted magnets wont give off a good signal to the pick up coil and then you have no spark.
 
Ok, so how do I check the voltage output of this? What I did was turned my meter on to ac volts and I put one lead on white/green and the other lead on white/red and had someone pull it over. I would get somewhere around .2v. I don't know if I am doing this the right way so if you have onther way of checking it I can try that. We also looked in at the magnets and they don't look rusted but it is kind of hard to tell. I guess if we do get to the point where we take the recoil off we will sand the magnets clean if they are rusty.
 
your output looks awfully low, it should be up around.6-.8 volts. Might be the scale your using, recheck again. if same you having nothing to lose by removing pipes,frame peice, recoil and then you can get to the flywheel. Check magnets for rusting then pull flywheel off and see if stator is rusted. your likely going to be changing it out.

the pick up coil is not available seprately, it comes with a new stator...... :o|
 
Figures, I will recheck it when I get back home. Sled is in NY but I work in VT so it will have to wait until Sunday. Although my dad has a friend who actually instructs people who become Yamaha techs. He is trying to get him to go over and look at it. Now, I want to make sure I am checking it correctly. I put my multi meter on VAC and put the leads on the white/red and white/green correct? I am guessing it will probably be the stator also just trying to do all the preliminary checks. Where is the best place to get one. I found a replacement on ebay for $125 shipped. If anyone has a good used one that they want to sell for a good price I would be more than willing to buy it from them also. I guess I just hope it is something as simple as changing the stator. Wish I had someone that I could borrow one from and see if thats the problem for sure. If I knew it was the problem, I would have no problem buying a new one. Thanks again for all the help!

Devin
 
So what I think I am going to do is order a stator for my sled. I have been looking for new ones, used ones and all different things. I found this one it replaces the oem stator but I'm sure it's after market. I was wondering if anyone has used these stators? They have a 1 year warranty so my guess is it would be a good buy. Here's the link.

'00 Yamaha SRX 700

Devin
 
OEM off the local dealer is 248.00 which seems pretty expensive compared to what I thought it would run.

I usually stick with OEM but I have no idea if there's any difference in this case.
 
Well I'm sure these are aftermarket. Looks like it isn't a really big company that does them. They offer a 1 year waranty which isn't too bad I don't think. I believe I am going to give them a shot. Not positive yet. But was just curious if anyone has bought anything from them.

Devin
 
I may be wrong on this but I believe the RM stators are Yamaha ones,they rebuild factory stators so I'd be inclined to say that if you want oem then you should be safe going with one from RM.
 
Looked back thru my oldest posts, Mr. Viper saved my bacon! Check for voltage coming out of the pickup coil when you pull it over. Also I think there is a resistance value to check for.
 
Yeah there is a voltage to check and a resitstance value. The resistance value I got was way way way out of spec and same with the voltage readings. I work in VT and the sled is in NY so when I get home on Sunday I plan on doing a few more checks and then probably pulling the stator out. Now I did a search on RM Stators and a bunch of different forums came up and they did not like them. Said they were junk. I am still tempted to buy one but I found a brand new oem from a company for ~$161 + shipping. We will see I will have to make a decision soon defore the snow come, I want to have her running.
 
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