HELP, newbie here::: How do I remove the skid from my 98 Vmax sx700--- 136 track???

here are some pics of my skid out of my 600.They are the Blue color rods that are fastened to the rails just inside the rear outside wheels.They extend upward toward the upper shaft where the upper large wheels are and rear shock is mounted.On the tunnel side the center bolts attach to this axle...simple.On the bottom of these rods is a bolt that you back off.Not the bolt that attaches them to the rails..but the bolt on the bottom end of the rod.

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#75 is the rod....#76 is where the rod goes through and #81 is the bolt you remove or loosen up


CLEAR AS MUD!!!!CLEAR AS MUD!!!!
 
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Awesome, you rock! Thank you.... the new hyfax will be here today.... so it's gonna be a night of trying to get the whole skid put back.... ick....
 
yep I use ice scratchers on my sleds and have added many extra grease fittings all over.On the transfer rod mount location,on the mount brackets for the w-arm and on all 4 control rods up front where they mount to the trailing arms,,,all this helps bushing wear and tear..read bethevipers thread on tightening up your skid...
 
So what do the ice scratchers REALLY do? And second.... got the skid back in, all bolts tightened etc.... have the back end up off the ground, and when I give it gas, I hear the tack making clicking noises on the hyfax... I guess I never paid attention before, is that normal? I tightened the track tension the exact amount of turns that I used when I backed them off (10 turns to loosen them, ten to tighten....)
 
alwaysthefinest said:
So what do the ice scratchers REALLY do? And second.... got the skid back in, all bolts tightened etc.... have the back end up off the ground, and when I give it gas, I hear the tack making clicking noises on the hyfax... I guess I never paid attention before, is that normal? I tightened the track tension the exact amount of turns that I used when I backed them off (10 turns to loosen them, ten to tighten....)
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Yes the track clicking is normal for a new track and hyfax. It will break in after a few rides. All good. ;)!
 
alwaysthefinest said:
snip I tightened the track tension the exact amount of turns that I used when I backed them off (10 turns to loosen them, ten to tighten....)
Click to expand...

While this is generally a good practice when tackling something you're unfamilar with, you're assuming the original tension/alignment was correct.

Alignment is the most critical to get correct.

Both alignment and tension specs from make to make doesn't change much but the means of adjustment does. Where your Polaris bud probably has large adjuster bolts with lock nuts on the outer side of each rail, your Yamaha has nylock adjuster nuts accessed through the track windows.

Once you have the tension close (most run it as loose as possible), in your case it probably is so I'd suggest lifting the track off the ground by lifting the rear bumper, spin the track with the engine and let it stop on it's own. measure the distance between the outer portion of a track clip and hyfax near the rear wheels. The distance should be the same left side rail vs. right side rail. If they aren't, adjust one of the tensioner nuts through the track windows (the window and nut are somewhat misaligned but a deepwell socket and extention will help to pry the window away to allow the socket to drop over the nut).

Run the track again (allowing it to stop on it's own) and recheck the alignment. It'll usually take a 1/4 to 1/2 turn of the nut to make a change which won't affect tension to any large degree.

Finally - tighten the axle, recheck the alignment and youre' done.

This last step seems to be often overlooked. I have two skids in my barn now (they aren't the first) that have the axle slots in the rails wowed out from someone forgetting this last important step.
 
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