Backfiring / rough during decelleration

D

destey

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Joined
Jan 28, 2010
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319
Age
45
Location
Vermont
1999 SRX700. I drove it around the field next to my house a few times and it sometimes backfires during slowdowns. While its doing this, if I give it throttle it sputters. If I let it come to a complete stop and give it 5 seconds, it goes away. It was happening at the end of last season too, so I don't think it can be plugs or fogging oil from over the summer.

I cleaned the carbs a few weeks ago, but maybe I missed something? Or a sticky powervalve? I went through almost all the electrical last year when it was having a bogging problem, so I don't think its that (replaced stator, coils, plug wires, went through the wire harness for rub through).

any ideas?
 

It's probably one of two things, either your throttle cable is too tight, try this first there has to be some slack. Or your TORS system is acting up. Do a search on this site for more info on TORS, theres a ton of it, it prevents your sled from taking off if the throttle is stuck. One of the switches can be defective. What ever you do do not bypass it, bad things can happen.
 
I bypassed my tors and installed a tether switch. Tors was always a bad idea and has been more trouble then it is worth. A properly installed tether is as sage, if not safer then Tors.
 
snopax said:
I bypassed my tors and installed a tether switch. Tors was always a bad idea and has been more trouble then it is worth. A properly installed tether is as sage, if not safer then Tors.
Click to expand...


So if your throttle sticks due to icing do you just bale?

Not saying it doesn't present problems when other things aren't correct (cable free play) but IMO a tether and TORS play two different roles.

A tether slows the sled down sooner when you and it become seperated where as TORS keeps the sled from running away if the slides become iced or a cable becomes fraid holding the throttle open.

One could argue that all thats needed if the throttle sticks is to hit the kill switch. Which most on this site would do eventually but the same could be said about run away Toyotas yet some folks didn't think to turn the key off or bump it into neutral.

Remember these things are sold to the masses.
 
I had my carb switch go bad last year. Their easy to test and easy change, you can find info by doing a search here on TY. There are threads on here where people bypassed them and have started their sleds and they took off with bad endings. I would fix the switch, I would spend the money on the replacing the switch than on a tether system. Personally I'm not a fan of wearing a tether. Just my 2cents. Soc
 
I run tethers on my stuff but keep my TORS operable for the reasons stated. It's not a hard system to maintain and serves a greater purpose than most think.

opsled
 
Ran the sled up in the mountains last night (after setting tors), and its definitely not tors.

It runs fine, has all kinds of power. But on some decellerations it coughs and sputters. Giving it throttle doesn't bring it out of the sputtering (when TORS wouldn't be cutting the throttle).

Here's the weird part. If I let the RPMS come down to idle, it then comes out of it and runs fine. But if I don't let it idle all the way down, it will sputter until I do.
 
So you're positive it isn't TORS because you gave the throttle cable lots of slack, or because you unplugged it and plugged them back into each other to test? It you gave the throttle some slack, it could still be a switch acting up. If you by-passed it by unplugging and then plugging the bullet connectors into each other, than yes it is something else. Sure sounds like TORS though...
 
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How much slack do you guys give your throttle cable?
The manual states something like 2mm before the carbs start to open

Just curious
 
Its not tors because when I close the throttle enough to deactivate it, the problem persists. It'll even happen if I never completely let off the throttle (never activate the TORS). 100% certain it is not tors.
 
I had the exact same problem but on a SXR 700 redhead. I did the throttle cable adjustment first and it went away when running on a stand. I have yet to fully run the sled to see if that solves it 100%.
 
If either switch is bad the only way to test is to ohm them or bypass. Even though your letting off the throttle the switches may not recognize that. A coroded connection or bad chaffed wire can cause intermitten work fine and then not.
 
I just went out and bypassed TORS by plugging the two bullet connectors at the carb switch together on the harness side, and it still does it.
 
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