TORS - how to adjust ???

T

tripplec

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I know my TORS spec is low RPM having tested it as per manual test method and it does not got to 2800RPM as it specified. I had a close look at it while at the cottage today and there is only one cable going to the trottle. I took photos and notice also that the fuel air screw should be 2.0 turns for E.C. carbs. Is that what I have?

OK, PHOTO'S WON'T UPLOAD.

Resolved photo issue now.
 

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I could be wrong but i dont think theres "adjustment" on tors. I beleive its an electronic sensor that either works or dont. Supposed to detect a problem and not let you run hard throttle. I know lots of guys disable it rather than find the problem.
 
The T.O.R.S system is a safety switch that will limit engine rpms to less than 3000 in the event that the throttle lever is released but the throttle linkage on the carburetors stays open. For example, the throttle cable freezes and when you let off the throttle the carbs stay open. The T.O.R.S system then limits engine revs to below clutch engagement so the sled will slow to a stop instead of racing off into the trees. It is to replace the tether cord or "dead man's switch" and there is no adjustment. You can test it to see if it's working by holding the pivot on the throttle lever and giving it gas, the engine should not go above clutch engagement revs. Also, if you think the T.O.R.S is kicking in and holding the revs when it shouldn't you can bypass it by taking the two wires from the harness at the connectors and connecting them together. This bypasses the safety system though and should only be done to test for proper operation.
 
Dmace said:
The T.O.R.S system is a safety switch that will limit engine rpms to less than 3000 in the event that the throttle lever is released but the throttle linkage on the carburetors stays open. For example, the throttle cable freezes and when you let off the throttle the carbs stay open. The T.O.R.S system then limits engine revs to below clutch engagement so the sled will slow to a stop instead of racing off into the trees. It is to replace the tether cord or "dead man's switch" and there is no adjustment. You can test it to see if it's working by holding the pivot on the throttle lever and giving it gas, the engine should not go above clutch engagement revs. Also, if you think the T.O.R.S is kicking in and holding the revs when it shouldn't you can bypass it by taking the two wires from the harness at the connectors and connecting them together. This bypasses the safety system though and should only be done to test for proper operation.
Click to expand...


x2, what Dmace said. A very handy safety feature, when you need it. Better than watching your sled mangle itself in the trees.
 
Ok, so there is no setting to increase the limit a few hundred RPM. I had previously tried to adjust the idle speed via the cable adjustment (large bent brass looking L shaped attached to top of bracket). I ended up putting the idle back since TORS was keeping me from move from a stop.

Note the setup plate photo. 2 turns on E.C. carbs. I wonder if this is those. There are many wire going into the carb and you may see some in the photos. The purpose of increasing idle speed (2000rpm) would probably be ok is the voltage output is high enough to brighten the head light more. I have new LED tail light so I don't have as much load for a drop at idle and the brake light doesn't dim the head light anymore. Its a big difference now.
 
The "2 turns out" is the fuel screw that's on the bottom of each carburetor and not the idle adjustment screw on top of the rack.
 
Dmace said:
The "2 turns out" is the fuel screw that's on the bottom of each carburetor and not the idle adjustment screw on top of the rack.
Click to expand...
I thought it was the spring loaded one on the side above the bowl. I don't have the manual here but I might have the PDF I printed it from. I'll see what it shows. Are these smart carbs E.C. type I know the manual did not mention them.
 
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I know there isn't one on the bottom. I had the assemble out and removed the drain plug cleaning the passages from both ends. I am pretty certain there are ones on the sides. But they don't appear to show in the photo angles I took. I won't be back util after Christmas to take another look. I haven't found the PDF yet but it does show something on that adjustment.
 
Racing666 said:
Do you have the triple rack style?
Click to expand...
Please see my photo's in the first post.

I am not certain which it is. It's definitey Smart Carbs with sensors everywhere it seems. I'll be down to where the machine is after Christmas and I know there was some screw on the side somewhere that was set at 1.5 turns unless I am loosing it. LOL But maybe should be 2 turns as per the plates info.

I won't be ride until the new year at the earliest but just going over some of it again.
 
You have a 600 twin. Your idle screw is the screw with the regular screwdriver slot in it next to that curved metal piece that your throttle cable runs thru.

Make sure that there is some play in the throttle cable and adjust your idle with the screw. After the idle is correct then you can adjust the throttle cable slack with the nut and adjuster on that curved piece.

You just want about 2mm of play at the throttle flipper before everything gets tight and the throttle opens.
 
You know, I thought that was something to do with the temp adjust settings. I used the adjusting of the curved piece much like bicycle brake to set the idle before. No wonder I had trouble before.

Thanks at sled load SXR...

I'll take care of that in the days before New Years between a few bring in the New Year drinks...LOL
Yes I know there is play on the pivot point for the TORS and probably why it does not goes as high when I pull it back to test it either. I think I've got my head wrapped around all the convoluted carburation system, at least the basic on what is what.

I have 94 Formula STX and it so so much simpler setup than this.
 
OK, I've bumped the idle up and increased the cable slack. It tightens after I pull up on the gas.

I am not able to find the adjust screw to richen or lean. I looked in the manual and its a hopeless line drawing. Looks like are around the front airbox opening. There are a lot of cables, wires plugs around the carb as you may see from my first photo's but I not seeing it yet. It -7 or colder today and windy. I got partially numb poking around and -14 tonight not snow.
 
Your rich and lean is controlled by your jets. It's not a boat motor. :)

Idle and just off idle is controlled by your pilot jet and air screw. Mid range and WOT is controlled by the main jet working in conjunction with the needle.

All of these things are inside the carb bowl or on some carbs the air screw is outside the carb bowl but still on the bottom. To get to these you need to take the carbs completely out.

If your sled is now running properly you don't need to do this though.
What condition are you trying to correct?
 
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I am not going to pull them out again so I'll leave well enough alone. I years gone by I've not got the top speed some have said they can do but. I am slowing down in my driving anyway.

Having said that the idle increase was to correct voltage drop and dimming of the headlight to yellow when brakes were applied. That has beem mostly eliminated with the LED tail light. A dealer set these up 3-4 years ago so I won't mess with that now.

THANKS !!!!
 
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