97 Vmax Sx 700 - Low speed/idle bog

97vmax700

97vmax700

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Dec 10, 2009
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So I got my sleds tuned up for the year and finally got my reed spacers installed on the vmax. At startup I could tell that low speed burble/pop had been improved. So I took it out around the yard and cruising at 4000rpm and then letting off the sled had a bog/sputter (and backfired once). It will stay around 3000rpm after I let off for a few seconds and sounds like it is miss firing. Then the idle comes back down to normal and I can take off again. When it is doing the sputtering at 3000rpm I can hold the throttle and it won't change or allow the sled to move. I have to let it idle down before I can take off again. This also happens when I give it some gas (around 8000rpm) and hold it there for a bit. Sled pulls nice and runs smooth. As soon as I let off it drops down to 3000rpm and does that sputtering thing and have to wait for it to idle down and then I can move again. I was wondering if the reed spacers may have changed something but from what I can see you don't need to change anything for them. Just thought I would see if anyone has had this issue. I may end up having to take the sled back to the shop and see whats up. Maybe it could be a carb issues. Anyways, any help would be appreciated.
 
Guess I will have to figure out this stuff...hopefully its what is causing the issues. Carbs were rebuilt last year and got them cleaned this year so I was kinda thinking it was something else other than a carb issue. But time will tell, I'll have to play around with this.
 
Go thru the carbs again. Make sure they are spotless. Check the TORS. You can bypass by unpluging and hooking the connectors to themselves on the CDI side of the harness. Next check the output of the stator. Weak stators can give problems. Then check the plug caps and plugs. Pug caps should ohm out at 5k ohms. These will also give you troubles like bogs and hesitations.
 
He did put a BR8eya (or 9's can't really remember) in this time and I think I usually run br8es. Maybe I will try the es plug and see. I have never gapped my plugs and have never had this problem but that could be affecting it as well. I'm not really familiar with the TORS (or what it even stands for :P) so I may end up taking it back to the mechanic. On a good note my 93 phazer runs mint. I have a few days off the end of the week so I may take a look at it and see if its something I can tackle on my own. Thanks for the insight guys!
 
tors is the throttle overide and more often than not a tors problem is from your throttle cable being too tight. if your tors is activating it does exactly what you're describing
 
Maybe after installing the reed spacers it affected the tension on the throttle cable. I will get a look at it in the next day or so. Thanks for the info folks.
 
Check the slack in your cable, It's a real simple mistake that people make when they remove their carbs for any reason. People think that the throttle should move the slides the second you hit it. when your adjusting the throttle cable look how much slack you can get in it and still open the carbs all the way. It's alot. Make sure you can wiggle the cable between the adjuster and where it conects to the carb, real simple. If there is slack, a simple test with a meter will tell you if one of the switches might be bad. A seach on this site under TORS will give any and all info on this subject. I have been through all of this. IT can be very frustrating. Soc
 
So a buddy of mine and I got a look at it this evening. We noted that the throttle seemed to be a little tight (no slack in the cable, as soon as we moved the throttle lever the carbs began to open). So we adjusted that setting and now the cable has a few mm of play. The oil pump cable seemed to be good (20mm) and the choke cable was good as well. After adjusting the throttle cable it still does the same thing. We found the wires coming from the sensor on the carb (next to the idle screw) and we unplugged them to "disable" the tors. Once we did this it was working fine, revved up and idled down normal and not hesitation at 3000rpm. Do these sensors go bad? I am also wondering if there may be a pinched wire from the connectors to the sensor or a broken spot. Guess the best thing would be to do is check to see if the sensor is getting power. If it is I would think that its the sensor itself. Any insight would be appreciated.
 
Hope this helps

Yes they do. I mentioned earlier I have had more than one issue with the TORS system. From The throttle being to tight, ice freezing on the actual throttle block and not allowing it to move properly, to the switch on the carbs not working. Using a meter and testing the switch by plugging into the wire connections you can test the switches. Here is a thread by me when I was having problems like you. http://www.totallyamaha.net/forums/showthread.php?t=66514&highlight=testing+tors.
Also below is a post by Daman. http://www.totallyamaha.net/forums/showpost.php?p=390616&postcount=5 .
Also do a search under "TESTING TORS". Hope these help. Soc
 
Well good news. So I slacked the throttle cable right off and still had the problem. We decided to take the switch out and check continuity for any breaks in the wires. Everything check out fine with that so we tore the entire switch apart. Actually came apart pretty slick. Cleaned the contact points between the spring and the small part that connects the 2 wires together. Put everything back together and fired the sled up, set the idle back to stock and revved it up and now it runs fine. Must have either been some dirt or the sensor and the carb arm were not aligned properly. So pretty happy about that. At least now if it happens on the trails I know which wires to disable it to get me home. Thanks for all the links and help!
 
I have a similar problem, but its more after i let off the gas and try and get back on it it won't go over 3000rpm until i let it idol down all the way and then I can get back on the gas. The werid part about that is it is random and doesnt happen all the time.
 
97vmax700

Glad you found it. TORS can be a pain, it can act like many things and not consistantly. Definately has been a pain in my butt. Soc
 
yamisx600r said:
I have a similar problem, but its more after i let off the gas and try and get back on it it won't go over 3000rpm until i let it idol down all the way and then I can get back on the gas. The werid part about that is it is random and doesnt happen all the time.
Click to expand...

Thats what mine was doing...its not too complicated once you get into it. 2 switches and the cables. The switch on the carb is pretty simple and thats where my problem was

sockeyerun said:
97vmax700

Glad you found it. TORS can be a pain, it can act like many things and not consistantly. Definately has been a pain in my butt. Soc
Click to expand...

Yeah, took a little fooling around but glad we were able to figure it out without having to take it back to the mechanic.
 
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