HEy I just piped my viper mountain and of course as most of you know there is not snow in many places. So I am wanting to go to cooke city and ride. But, I am a little worried about it cuz I don't have a proven set up for 1700ft let alone 8500ft. So that is why I am hoping that one of you can help me out and give me a proven set up for out there. If you guys could help out that would be so awesome and would be very much appreciated.
I currently have viper mountain stock gears I believe 41/21
BEnder pipes
Mpi peak head
For weights I have three choices
I have stock weights
8ca weights
And I just bought heelclicker 45-7y weights And have the silver spring.
ANY help you guys can offer would be awesome
THanks guys
Matt
I currently have viper mountain stock gears I believe 41/21
BEnder pipes
Mpi peak head
For weights I have three choices
I have stock weights
8ca weights
And I just bought heelclicker 45-7y weights And have the silver spring.
ANY help you guys can offer would be awesome
THanks guys
Matt
what i used with mine at that elevation was..
150 mains
60 pilot
2.5 needle position
2 turns out on fuel screw
And that was with all my under hood air blocked off and flowrites in dash as well as the ram air cut open, so its a little rich if your still taking in under hood air.
Clutching/ Gearing-
13.3 rivet in inner hole with g-w-g spring in primary with stalk 8DN weights
Silver spring in secondary set at 80 deg
20-42 gearing (helps alot)
Hope this helps
150 mains
60 pilot
2.5 needle position
2 turns out on fuel screw
And that was with all my under hood air blocked off and flowrites in dash as well as the ram air cut open, so its a little rich if your still taking in under hood air.
Clutching/ Gearing-
13.3 rivet in inner hole with g-w-g spring in primary with stalk 8DN weights
Silver spring in secondary set at 80 deg
20-42 gearing (helps alot)
Hope this helps
That's with the benders correct? Also do you have the mountain viper for that setup? IT does help a lot does anyone else have any input on a set up?
yes that is what i used to run with bender pipes and a 162" track. ON a 05 mtn viper. It did run good with the benders but i switched to slp pipes and makes alot more power now at elevation and runs better.
Ok awesome, I am still looking for some more responses expesally on a gear and clutch set up.
THanks
THanks
I can't give any setups but some advice is make sure and check plugs when you ride out there for a bit. Don't just jet and then ride assuming you are OK.
OK thank for tIe advise. I had planned on doing so I am kinda a worry freak when it comes to letting. Expessally since all the mods are new to me
i believe your stock gearing should be 21-40. which will be fine if your running a stock 144 track. If you gear it down go with a 42 bottom gear. You can even go lower and use a 20 top and 42 bottom. Although you dont need it with a stock track. And you can use the stock chain for all these setups.
SO your clutching is. Almost the same as what slp recOmends for there pipes
mod-it
Member
Stock gearing is 40-21. I'm running that with Clutching per SLP recommendations:
G-W-G primary spring, 8dn-10 weights with 3.6 grams in inner AND outer hole. SLP says to leave outer hole empty, but when I put the flo-rites in I was overturning rpm's to about 9300.
Green secondary spring at 70, and a 43 degree helix. I saw a big improvement when I took out the 45 degree stock helix and went to the 43. In comparison, my friend I ride with had a RMK 700 with same 144 track. We seemed to be able to climb about the same, both had to turn out around the same height...then I put the 43 in. After that, it was night and day difference in climbing, he couldn't touch where my sled would climb...and he'd tell you the same thing, it was that drastic. I'm seeing 48-51 mph track speed when climbing with this set-up.
Bender should have a chart that can get you close on jetting for that altitude. sarge's jetting should be close, but our SLP's turn 8900 to your Bender's 8600, probably some difference in jetting specs, plus the flo-rites make quite a bit of difference...which brings up another point:
Putting triple pipes on is going to make the infamous powder bog rear its ugly head. That's why we are running flo-rites and blocking off the underhood air. This cures it. Read the second to last page of "the infamous powder bog" in the Mountain section for more details. In a nut shell, fine powder snow comes through the front hood screen and lands on the pipe, which then turns it to steam and sucks it into the air box. This causes the sled to fall on its face and only pull about 6k rpm's. All the openings on the under side of the hood that let under hood air into the air box chamber need to be blocked off, such as the triangular holes, rectangular holes, and the openings around the head lights.
Flo-rites are about 40-45 bucks. I simply used duct tape to block the hood openings.
G-W-G primary spring, 8dn-10 weights with 3.6 grams in inner AND outer hole. SLP says to leave outer hole empty, but when I put the flo-rites in I was overturning rpm's to about 9300.
Green secondary spring at 70, and a 43 degree helix. I saw a big improvement when I took out the 45 degree stock helix and went to the 43. In comparison, my friend I ride with had a RMK 700 with same 144 track. We seemed to be able to climb about the same, both had to turn out around the same height...then I put the 43 in. After that, it was night and day difference in climbing, he couldn't touch where my sled would climb...and he'd tell you the same thing, it was that drastic. I'm seeing 48-51 mph track speed when climbing with this set-up.
Bender should have a chart that can get you close on jetting for that altitude. sarge's jetting should be close, but our SLP's turn 8900 to your Bender's 8600, probably some difference in jetting specs, plus the flo-rites make quite a bit of difference...which brings up another point:
Putting triple pipes on is going to make the infamous powder bog rear its ugly head. That's why we are running flo-rites and blocking off the underhood air. This cures it. Read the second to last page of "the infamous powder bog" in the Mountain section for more details. In a nut shell, fine powder snow comes through the front hood screen and lands on the pipe, which then turns it to steam and sucks it into the air box. This causes the sled to fall on its face and only pull about 6k rpm's. All the openings on the under side of the hood that let under hood air into the air box chamber need to be blocked off, such as the triangular holes, rectangular holes, and the openings around the head lights.
Flo-rites are about 40-45 bucks. I simply used duct tape to block the hood openings.
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mod-it
Member
Here's the link to infamous powder bog thread:
http://www.totallyamaha.net/forums/showthread.php?t=41426&page=6&pp=20
http://www.totallyamaha.net/forums/showthread.php?t=41426&page=6&pp=20
Ya I know that slp's run a higher rpm than benders. But I think that the rpms are probably close enough to where I could probably bring it down by loosening the secondary a bit?
Also how big did you go for your flow rites I am considering buying some and doing what you did and blocking off the air to the underhood. I just don't wanna go all the way there and have to deal with the spowder bog. I have experienced it before when my sled was stock and it is a huge pain in the a**.
Also, did you have any cooking issues while you had all the underhood air blocked off?
Also how big did you go for your flow rites I am considering buying some and doing what you did and blocking off the air to the underhood. I just don't wanna go all the way there and have to deal with the spowder bog. I have experienced it before when my sled was stock and it is a huge pain in the a**.
Also, did you have any cooking issues while you had all the underhood air blocked off?
mod-it
Member
You won't be able to bring the rpm's down 3-400 rpm by the secondary adjustment, plus it would ruin your back shift. You'll want to add/remove weight to the primary as needed. With the above clutch set-up, but wanting Bender rpm of 8600, I'd probably start out with 4.5 grams in inner and outer. This is the max weight rivet you can get, if that doesn't work then you'll have to go to the bolt-washer set-up or try getting a heavier arm.
The flo-rites are about 3" diameter each, one on each side for a total of two of them. Did you look at the thread link I posted? There are pictures of my sled with the flo-rites in the dash and the under hood air blocked. As far as "cooking" issues, the pictures will make it clearer. You aren't blocking the hood screens that let cool air into the engine compartment...you are blocking the openings on the under side of the hood that let air into the air box chamber. Kind of a double walled hood with gaps in between them that you don't want the under hood air to be able to get into anymore.
The flo-rites are about 3" diameter each, one on each side for a total of two of them. Did you look at the thread link I posted? There are pictures of my sled with the flo-rites in the dash and the under hood air blocked. As far as "cooking" issues, the pictures will make it clearer. You aren't blocking the hood screens that let cool air into the engine compartment...you are blocking the openings on the under side of the hood that let air into the air box chamber. Kind of a double walled hood with gaps in between them that you don't want the under hood air to be able to get into anymore.
Well I guess I don't think I will be able to play with the weights to terrible much when I am up on the mountain. So you say you have 3.6 gr in both holes on the 8 dn weights. And you are reving at 8900. Benders make the top power at 8750 according to a dyno sheet I found on this link http://www.m-performance.com/Sidor/dyno_yamaha.htm. so what would you think of maybe grinding the 4.5 to 4.0? DO you think that will be enough or do you think I will need more weight?
Ok, so i looked in my notes for you ( i do take notes every time i ride cause i like to tune) and my exact setup for the primary when i was running the benders was 3.5 gram inner hole and aluminum rivet in outer hole. Using the springs i had mentioned for primary and secondary.
ANd like the last guy said,
Adjust rpms with primary
Adjust backshift/upshift with secondary
THis was taking off at about 8000 ft, running a tad over 8700 rpm's.
IT should get you close maybe a bit under or over cause its different with every sled.........but you will be riding
Oh, and if you plan on heading west again, take notes so you know what to improve on for next time. It does help.
ANd like the last guy said,
Adjust rpms with primary
Adjust backshift/upshift with secondary
THis was taking off at about 8000 ft, running a tad over 8700 rpm's.
IT should get you close maybe a bit under or over cause its different with every sled.........but you will be riding
Oh, and if you plan on heading west again, take notes so you know what to improve on for next time. It does help.
Ok sweet thanks a lot for the info. Now that's with you 162 track? Or was that before you stretched it?
mod-it
Member
YZViper366 said:
That's a very good question to ask, because his gearing and 162 set-up is going to put completely different load on the motor...
My weight set-up is getting me about 9100 on the trail, but when I get into the powder and pointed up hill it pulls a perfect 8900 and holds it there. More load on it when in the powder...
And let me revise my guesstimate on what weights I think would get you close:
My SLP chart says at 5000-9000 feet I should use 3.1 grams inner hole and empty outer, with g-w-g primary spring, green secondary spring at 80 degrees and a 43 helix...this is without the flo-rites factored in. My above post was wrong, I'm not running 3.6 inner and outer, I'm running 3.1 inner and outer since putting in the flo-rites (I should've checked my notes, obviously my memory isn't that good).
So, without flo-rites I'd recommend you put 3.1 inner and around 2.7 or 3.1 outer to try to turn 8600-8700 rpm. With flo-rites I'd guess starting out at 3.6 inner and 3.6 outer...this is assuming you have the 43 helix. BUT, another factor is you're running different heads...it's simply going to take some testing.
I'd tell you the best thing to do would be to contact Bender for specs, but they like to put in their clutch goodies when you run their pipes...so they may not have any data for Yamaha clutch set-ups. I'd still try them and find out. You may just have to take along a clutch pulling tool, torque wrench, and a handful of rivets to try to dial it in between days of riding. You might try getting Yamadad4 to recommend something, he is a mountain rider and really knows his stuff. He may have run a set-up close to yours at some point in time. I'm just trying to help you by using what understanding I have and telling you where I'd start out at in your situation.
Thanks a lot mod-it. I think I am gonna take your advice and start with the 3.6 inner and outer. ANd I am going to be using the flow rites I have them shipping to me already. I appreciate all the help. My trip isn't till the 24thth February but I will definatly let ya know how the set up ended up I am thinking it will be relatively close to where I think I need to be. I am gonna try to bring a gram scale, a grinder, clutch puller, and electric impact , and rivets so I can make changes as needed.
One more question if I ham under reving or over reting which rivet would you recomend adding weight to or taking weigt from? The inner or the outer hole?
One more question if I ham under reving or over reting which rivet would you recomend adding weight to or taking weigt from? The inner or the outer hole?
was with 144 track and stock gearing at the time.
I had the 3.5 gram inner and 3.5 gram outer at that elevation before i switched to aluminum outer and i was under 8500. With a little testing you will find out what works best for you. Good luck buddy
I had the 3.5 gram inner and 3.5 gram outer at that elevation before i switched to aluminum outer and i was under 8500. With a little testing you will find out what works best for you. Good luck buddy
sarge said:
Ok just to make sure with the bender pipes, stock gears 40/21, you tried 3.5gr inner and 3.5 outer on the 8DN-10 weights at somwhere around 8500ft elevation and you ended up reving under 8500. Then you put the aluminum in the outer and you ended up reving around the 8750 range?
Where you running the flow rites at this time? If not did you end up adding more weight like mod-it ended up doing? Or did you have flow-rites on at the time?
Thanks again for answering all my questions so far you guys have been a awesome help to me.
Thanks
Matt