ok so here goes,i have researched this on the forums many times and cannot find anything that seems to directly relate to my issue.
so i will start with the symptom,it feels like the skiis are constantly"digging in"
and the track is constantly spinning.
97 vmax xt 600 twin,has the yamaha plastic gyt-r skiis(the skinny ones)
a 3/4 lug track with 96 up the middle,viper(i think) aluminum bodied rebuildable shocks all the way around,skid frame has been gone through,tightened,made greasable,w arm is not broken,set up as per BETHEVIPERS extremely helpful setup pages,i have almost no front ski shock pre-load,the front of the track touches with the rear 2 inches off the ground,transfer rod gap is 8 and 8 with me on the sled.
the skiis are shimmed(helped alot with the darting)but the sled still does dart some.it just feels like i have way too much ski pressure as the sled is always hard to turn,and i cannot get good traction,i even tried putting on 4 inch carbide on a 7/16 hostbar instead of 6 inch on 1/2 inch bar,did not change anything except i can't turn on pavement.at speed the back end of the sled is all over the place,though it does not feel like it is loose,it is like driving a rear wheel drive car with your foot on the brake on snow(think constant burnout).
so where to go first skiis or track?
i should also note that i have the same sled in a short travel version(sx,same year,same engine) that does not do this,stock steel skiis(shimmed) and a 1 inch track with 96 up the middle.
i plan on swapping out skiis first to test,then possibly the tracks,just wanted to see what you guys have to say about it first as swapping tracks mid season is alot of work.thanks.
so i will start with the symptom,it feels like the skiis are constantly"digging in"
and the track is constantly spinning.
97 vmax xt 600 twin,has the yamaha plastic gyt-r skiis(the skinny ones)
a 3/4 lug track with 96 up the middle,viper(i think) aluminum bodied rebuildable shocks all the way around,skid frame has been gone through,tightened,made greasable,w arm is not broken,set up as per BETHEVIPERS extremely helpful setup pages,i have almost no front ski shock pre-load,the front of the track touches with the rear 2 inches off the ground,transfer rod gap is 8 and 8 with me on the sled.
the skiis are shimmed(helped alot with the darting)but the sled still does dart some.it just feels like i have way too much ski pressure as the sled is always hard to turn,and i cannot get good traction,i even tried putting on 4 inch carbide on a 7/16 hostbar instead of 6 inch on 1/2 inch bar,did not change anything except i can't turn on pavement.at speed the back end of the sled is all over the place,though it does not feel like it is loose,it is like driving a rear wheel drive car with your foot on the brake on snow(think constant burnout).
so where to go first skiis or track?
i should also note that i have the same sled in a short travel version(sx,same year,same engine) that does not do this,stock steel skiis(shimmed) and a 1 inch track with 96 up the middle.
i plan on swapping out skiis first to test,then possibly the tracks,just wanted to see what you guys have to say about it first as swapping tracks mid season is alot of work.thanks.

super1c
Super Moderator
A few different things going on here for sure. You dont need to change your track or skis. Just have to figure out whats going on. You say way to much ski pressure but cant turn. Are you riding ice? It kinda sounds as if your rear center shock is set with too much preload. It should be set with 0 preload. Then adjust the rear/rear shock to achieve the 50/50 gap on the transfer rods. I would run some preload on the front shocks, running with 0 preload will cause you to run loose. And if your "tail is wagging" your still darting. Where are your limiters straps set at? This could be it also. Just sounds like you have a bunch of different things working against each other. Just throwing out some ideas and maybe with the help of others we can find out what you got going on. Another idea is to put everything back to stock settings and go from their. But its long traveled no so not sure what that would be.
i set the center shock to almost no preload with it in the skid,limiter straps are on the tight side,fornt ski shocks are set so that if the front is in the air
the springs just barely touch the retainers,i ride trails in sw michigan so mostly hardpack,what is weird is it does not seem to matter what conditions
except that the more powder there is the worse it gets above 70 mph.
it is always hard to turn.with 4 inch carbides and studs you would think it would push in the corners,it is just the opposite,if i turn too hard the back end comes around.
the springs just barely touch the retainers,i ride trails in sw michigan so mostly hardpack,what is weird is it does not seem to matter what conditions
except that the more powder there is the worse it gets above 70 mph.
it is always hard to turn.with 4 inch carbides and studs you would think it would push in the corners,it is just the opposite,if i turn too hard the back end comes around.
Sounds like you don't have enough presssure on the skid. Let out the limiters straps and the center shock preload to put more weight onto the skid. Then follow the steps in BTV's suspension setup to set the FRA and transfer rod gaps.
With 96 studs up the middle I would use no less than a 6" carbide in hard pack trails.
With 96 studs up the middle I would use no less than a 6" carbide in hard pack trails.
I would first set your fra on softest setting then adjust your limiters to let them out. see what that does for ya . then we'll go from there!
sleddineinar
VIP Member
I guess I'll weigh in here too... 3/4 lug is pretty minimal by today's standards. I'd switch to a 1" track. But before you do, how much penetration are you getting with your studs? Studs should usually be 1/4 to 3/8" beyond the lug. Now that only will help in hardpack or ice but the fact that you say it is worst when you have more powder leads me to say that you should really update your track for a 1" Hacksaw or something with at least 96 studs that are log enough to give you 1/4" penetration. As for your front ski's then use a 6" carbide. For now I would also let out more limiter strap, so you have a bit less ski pressure.
going to pull the limiters out and see if they need to be replaced,it looks like one"slipped",there is a bunch of frayed material that i don't remember seeing when i put the skidframe back in it last month,i have also been looking for a one inch track as i belieive that this sled would perform better with that.hopefully i can "get more weight on the skid" with limiters and center shock preload first,then go back to the 6 inch carbides i took off and do some track shopping as i would feel alot less reluctant to spend the money after i get the sled to handle with whats on it,thanks for the advice guys.
oh, i almost forgot,i watched the proaction tuning video olnline and they said to increase the preload on the center shock to lighten the ski pressure,have you guys found this to be true or false? most everything i have read on here says "little to no center shock preload",thanks again.
oh, i almost forgot,i watched the proaction tuning video olnline and they said to increase the preload on the center shock to lighten the ski pressure,have you guys found this to be true or false? most everything i have read on here says "little to no center shock preload",thanks again.