First time riding piped viper today questions for you jetting and clutching experts

YZViper366

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Finally got a little snow not much but about 2 inches. I took my sled out just to take it for few runs. I checked my plugs in all the circuits as mrviper700 says to do. All the plugs seem pretty good like a brown toasty color. I tried to check my wash but I dont really know what to look for. From what I could see they looked like a dark grey color. Ill post some pictures of my plugs tell me what you guys think PIC 1 is PTO, PIC 2 is CENTER, PIC 3 is MAG. For jetting I am running

Main 165
Pilot 55
Needle I believe is at 3.5
Fuel Screw is at 2 turns
Elevation 1700ft

For clutching I have 8ca weights with a 13.9mm 3.9grm rivet in the heel and nothing in the toe. I have a W-G-W primary spring and a green secondary spring wrapped to 70 degrees. The thing pulls like crazy it is a completely different sled from last year its awesome. I believe I am under reving a bit my engagement is around 4500 RPM's and at WOT i am around 8400 RPM's I have bender pipes and they make peak power at 8750 RPM's. What do you guys suggest that I do to get up where I need to be?

Gearing is 20/40
Helix is bender 49/37

Thanks here are the plug Pictures.
 

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I have a bender 9770 From the list of aftermarket helixes I found on this site it says it is a 49/37. The only other helix I have to choose from would be the stock straight 45. My sled is a viper mountain by the way gearing is 20 top gear and 40 bottom gear.
 
Well I guess at first it seems to over rev to around 9000 rpm's but I believe I am spinning the track then it come back down to somewhere around 8400 and seems to creep up a little bit towards the end of my run.
 
Not happy with the colour of the first plug. Looks lean. Piston wash is a better indicator.
 
Yes I noticed that the PTO side plug did look a little leaner than the rest. I tried to look at the wash the best I could through the plug hole. The wash seemed to look like a lighter color grey compared to the rest. The first time I checked the wash the PTO side piston seemed to look like the alluminum color of the piston directly in the center. Then I ran it again and it seemed to turn to a dark but lighter grey than the rest of the pistons. Do some people need to stagger there jetting with piped vipers?

Also, does anyone have a trick to checking the wash I tried just just shining a light down the spark plug hole and look the best I could but it was very hard for me to say much of anything at all. maybe it would help if I looked at it in the dark?
 
I also have a egt gauge on the pto exhaust pipe and I was riding it pretty hard and the highest temp I saw was 1150 degrees if that means anything to anyone. Normal temp I saw was somewhere between950 and 1100
 
We have a little flexible light that we are able to stick down in the spark plug hole and with the piston all the way at the bottom you will be able to see the piston wash.
 
so which circuit am I looking at??, midrange ,wide open for at least 600-700+ ft or??

I wont say what I see till I get a idea of how you took these readings, and from your description, you also suggest something. You can get like a small bend a light from most hardware stores, they have a little flexible hose with a led bulb on end fits nicely down the spark plug hole and you can see the piston top well, you need the plug and piston top information combined to get a good idea. also it will be easier to read if you run std plugs instead of the fine elctrode plugs till you get the jetting tuned in.

will wait to hear back
 
This would be more of the mid range circuit I was doing a big circle around irrigation tracks in a field. So probably around a mile. I had checked all my circuits before I did this and they all looked very similar to the pictures maybe a little richer at WOT.
 
YZViper366 said:
This would be more of the mid range circuit I was doing a big circle around irrigation tracks in a field. So probably around a mile. I had checked all my circuits before I did this and they all looked very similar to the pictures maybe a little richer at WOT.


I would likely suggest you raise your needles then, because your lean on 2 of those plugs. you also noted the piston top was dry and grey color, thats lean. If it was rich, they would be shiny wet silver color.

looking at the 1st pic-, your pto your elctrode core is completely silver, this is hard to read on a fine elctrode plug thats why i said use a std plug to dial it in then go back to your current plugs, but your ground strap also is burned back clear to the base, should be 2 differnt colors on the strap. ceramic cone is fairly white color

second pic-its also close to lean, its not as bad as first pic but same indications, it does show a separation on the ground strap. ceramic cone closer to tan

3rd pic- is best out of group for trail riding, you can see the 2 differnt colors on strap and the center core is not silver, ceramic cone alot more tan color

thats only what I can observe from a pic, its always better to take the piston wash and combine it with plug reading to get the whole picture as to whats going on inside the engine. if you look in tech section I have a plug reading post in there and shows pics and what to look for, apply those to your sled with std plugs and see where your at. I would repeat with std plugs, and a bend a light, then adjust jetting if needed.

i used your pic and made notes on your best plug, compare to your other pics
 

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Thank you Mrviper I am gonna get different plugs and look for one of those small lights. ALso I will raise the needles .5 a clip and I will take it out again (if we have snow left) and will post more pictures of my result
 
just change the plugs first and repeat test then determine what to change, be alot easier to read the std plugs plus youll be armed with piston top information.

if you change things first before you get the right tools if you say, and then change something else, you dont know what fixed the problem.
 
Ok I got out again today and I did exactly like you said I put standard plugs in and tested each circuit again. I also put the middle resonance tubes back in the air box this time. I took pictures of each circuit the first three are the Pilot circuit, second three are Needles, and third is WOT. All pictures are in the order of CENTER, PTO, MAG .

As for the wash it was really hard for me to see what it looked like out in the field but I took it back in the shop and turned the lights off and looked at it with my new bendy light the PTO and CENTER piston looked like mrviper700's good wash picture the MAG piston was looking more like mrviper700's lean wash picture. For mrviper700's wash pictures go to ty home click tech pages click engine click plug reading by mrviper700.

Here are the plug pictures
 

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you did a nice job, ;)!
I would say the center and pto look very good, you have probally about 10 degrees safety in them yet, meaning if it drops another 10 degrees youll be ok with current jetting, colder then that youll be on the lean more danger side, so whatever temps your testing in take that into account. pto is slightly richer then center but its trail safe.

The mag cylinder in all pics looks lean, so you need to address that cylinder with more fuel, needle shimmed more and more main jet.

the shelf back in airbox made a big differance in the other 2 plugs from just what I see on the ground strap and cone.

I drew on your best plug pic, get them all to look like that and it will be tuned perfect.
 

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Thanks for the quick repsonse. Would you recomend going up 1 jet size and a half a clip on the needles for the Mag clylinder? Or what would you recomend?
 
Nice pics. I have SLP triples in my 2smoker Viper. Obviously your mag needs some attention. I went to a PeakPerformance Head which has the same chambers for a three, therefore I didn't have to stagger my jetting specs. But you are definately on the right trail, and MrViper will steer you correctly.
Rick
 


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