new t.p.s. did not help

D

davidgboy

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Nov 1, 2011
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put in new t.p.s. figured that they were updated and it was worth the try. still wants to race up instead of idling down. it is not idle hang from lean pilot circuit. seems like alot of people have this problem. is there something inherent in these sleds that causes this? please tell me this is not the case. please dont lie to me though. i want to know the truth so i can decide wether to sell it. did these engines have lousy crank seals or what gives? i hope it is that actually. i had the damn engine out but with 900 miles on it i decided to leave it alone. i know the age matters 2 but i mean could it be. my brothers 2002 viper is doing same thing. his has 6000 miles though. i am having my suspicions about the design of these engines and or the supporting systems. someone tell me that i am being paranoid. say it like u mean it. dare ya.
 

ya,no real suprise here. tps isnt your problem neither is the tors system, you need to set the fuel screws on bottom of carbs out to 2 turns from lightly seated and it will run as normal, same with the other viper.

you want to check simply start up sled and ride it, then stop when it revs up a bit simply lightly start to lift the choke lever and it will return instantly to idle speed. that means its lean, thats all
 
davidgboy said:
what does fuel screws have to do with engine that races that races that much? unsteady idle maybe. note of interest: fuel does not flow physically past those those "fuel screws". they adjust the amount of venting that is applied to the pilot circuit. noticed that looking at a yamaha manual.
Click to expand...

The screws located on the bottom of the carb are fuel screws, they regulate the flow into the low speed circuit of the carb from the pilot jet. The air is controlled by the air jet located in the rear bell of the carb.
Anytime the screw is located in front of the slide to relation of the engine its a fuel screw, if the adj screw is behind the carb slide(airbox side) its a air screw controlling the air mixed with the pilot jet.

for a simple test, simply remove the pilot jet and spray carb cleaner into the pilot jet orfice, watch where it comes out of the carb throat in front. Then spray it in the air jet in back and watch where it comes out.
 
my fuel screws are turned out a little over 2 turns. when i first run it it seems o.k. then it will end up racing. i will try cleaning them again. it does more than idle hang like i said though. it will not come back down which i thought it would if it was just idle hang. maybe it is serious idle hang i suppose. as far as t.o.r.s. goes seems like more of a gimmick than anything. wont help u if throttle lever gets jammed or somehow stuck. if cable gets stuck what will cause the throttle lever to return to activate the t.o.r.s.? just some goverment weenies or engineers with nothing worthwhile to create. like i said before these engineers should have created a computer controlled enrichening circuit activated depending on air temp, throttle angle, r.p.m. or a fuel injection system. now that would be earning a paycheck.
 
There are 2 tots switches, one on the carb and the other in the thumb throttle. Do a search on adjusting tors and it will make sense. Should be an article in tech on how to adjust it.
 
I am going to pull my carbs due to the same idle issue
98 SRX states 1 1/8 turns
Will that be ok?
 
This may sound dumb but could it be maybe the throttle cable itself is maybe sticking? Ive seen it happen with my clutch cable on my shovelhead. the cable will wear a groove inside and it will hang up. just a thought
 
I have idle hang as well. Everyone has said it's the throttle cable. I have my throttle cable turned all the way in (as loose as it goes) and it still does it. If I unplug my TPS, it doesn't do it. Plug the TPS back in and it returns. Food for thought. Have you tried seeing if leaving the TPS unplugged if it still does it?
 
You can lead a horse to the water but you cant make him drink it!
Might be a good time to take it to someone that knows how to maintain and tune.
 
666 yup i tried it with it disconnected. thought it was o.k. at first. just to clarify,the comp. con. enrich. circuit that i mentioned in first post would have been for high output operation. i discovered that the t.o.r.s. switch on the throttle cable bracket(on carbs.) did not always close. depends on how hard the throttle was returned. this physically keeps the throttle open slightly more. this cant help. so i removed the switch, tack welded a nut over the hole in bracket where idle screw and switch is mounted. put a longer screw(1/4" bolt) with a nut for locking. info- the original screw is left hand thread. but what might be the real problem is the fact that there is no high idle setting independent from the base idle setting. this forces one to turn idle up enuf so it will stay running when cold. once engine reaches full operating temp u know it will idle up more. so me and my brother are going to make a wedge shape object that will kep throttle lever open more on warmup. this will allow u 2 set base warm idle seperately. will it help?- ???!!! i read where people had better results with idle lower than sugg. factory setting. - around 1500 - this would seem 2 suggest that i might be on the right track. i sure hope so. this issue is very irritating. not unlike myself at times. that new t.p.s. did test different. applying 4.76 volts, i could not adjust the old one to the desired output of .647. it would only go down to .70(at least where idle screw happened to be set) the new one could go down to .50. that made me feel better about buying it. looks like rain coming. have no choice but to love the weather anyway. the dynamics demand respect.
 
Man it sounds like you are are realy haveing a hard time here.Anything that sticks spray it with pb blaster and if anybody asks you if the idle comes down with the choke....answer them.PLEASE


.
 
hi staggs. pilot jets r stock. got pilot screw out about 2 1/8. hey bluwho i think the t.o.r.s. is worse than useless. the kill switch dude that is where the action is. as far as idle racing issue goes lots of people with same problem. am working on it.
 
i am as sure as i can be that pilot circuits are fine. if they were not u would notice it more when engine is cold. engine would not idle up enuf after choke(not really a choke it is an enrichening circuit) was flipped off. would be unsteady also. this is not happening. i think this problem may be intermittent depending on the situation. maybe it affects some engines more than others. hard telling. setting up a seperate high idle for warm up certainly cannot hurt any. getting rid of that sillya$$ t.o.r.s wont hurt either. every one should practice hitting their kill switch off, should become second nature, this is what will save your a$$. this should allow for a more consistent lower warm base idle. all carbs on vehicles have this feature. motorcyles not always, but sleds have to deal with much colder weather on average.
 
Well you sound like you no it all to the untrained tech but if you cant answer a simple guestion without sounding like you are trying to impress everyone i will let you have your fun.bye
 
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