Backwoods M Max
New member
Just wondering if I'm on the right track. I started out with a 1700 rpm idle, but it was "cold" never really was able to get the sled to operating temp just by sitting on the dollies. Changed my drive belt and this new one might just be a ch longer with a bit less drag because the idle jumped to 2100. I went out for my first ride the other day and had a 4000 rpm idle hang, a shot of choke would drop it right down but it wanted to climb. I came home and pulled the carbs and added 1/4 turn to my idle jets 1 3/4 now. I went out this morning and it still had the idle hang, came home and added another 1/4 to bring the idle jets to 2 turns. I went out this afternoon and it still had the idle hang. I rode home and backed off the idle speed screw 3/4 turn and the idle came down to 1600, but the motor is absolutely at operating temp. Since it wasn't a partial warm up, but 15 miles of up and down logging roads I should now have a stable idle because it was set at operating temp? On a cold re start the sled will kind of chug along at a 1200 rpm idle but I guess that's just the nature of the beast to have it run right when it's warmed up. How is the 2 turn idle jets? Is that what most guys do to cure the ethanol blues? I'm thinking the 2 turns are ok the sled doesn't stutter from a dead hit, and the needle clip shims are both on the bottom in the middle clip for ethanol. Pulls hard all the way to wot with no flat spots. Pto plug is dark tan, ctr and mag are light tan, burn is at the bend on the ground on all 3. I think she's dialed in jus wanted to be sure about the idle hang. It's no fun having a sled that stalls all the time because of a low idle